We spent two weeks over the Easter holiday period in our “happy place” – our home in Mossel Bay, which lies at the start of the famous Garden Route in South Africa.
During our stay we ventured out to various places along the coast, west and east of Mossel Bay, and rediscovered just how beautiful the coastline is where the southern Cape meets the Indian Ocean.
My camera is seldom far from my side when travelling but I had left both my “good” cameras in Pretoria this time around so that they could be serviced and recalibrated by the technicians at Nikon – something that was long overdue after the frequent use to which I put my equipment and the rough life they endure in dusty and bumpy conditions most of the time.
So I was left with one option – my Iphone – which I have found is a fantastic substitute when taking landscapes and such like, but not much help with bird photography.
What follows is a selection of photos of the beautiful spots we visited, all taken with my Iphone – for a change I will let the photos do most of the talking (Is that a sigh of relief I hear?).
This map of the region shows most of the places mentioned in the post :
Map of the Southern Cape coast
Starting with the westernmost spot and heading east………..
Just click on any of the photos to open a larger view
Jongensfontein – small coastal holiday town near Stilbaai
JongensfonteinJongensfontein
Stilbaai (“Quiet Bay”) – Favoured by retirees and holidaymakers
StilbaaiStilbaai
Fransmanshoek Conservancy – unspoilt beauty near Vleesbaai
As I mentioned in my previous post about twitching (https://mostlybirding.com/2016/02/23/a-twitch-or-two/), I hardly consider myself to fall into the category of keen twitchers, those hardy, sometimes mildly bonkers birders who let nothing stand in the way of seeing rare birds that turn up in Southern Africa.
Such was the case when a pair of Yellow-throated Leafloves (interesting name!) turned up and started nesting at a riverside lodge near Katima Mulilo in Namibia, some 200 kms south of their normal distribution in Zambia and northwards. Suddenly the Southern African region had a brand new bird added to the regional list!
The reports started coming through in mid February 2016 of this unexpected pair of birds in the gardens of the Caprivi Houseboat Safari Lodge near Katima Mulilo and there was soon a gold-rush like invasion of keen twitchers heading to this remote part of Southern Africa via plane and car from various places in South Africa and Namibia.
The Twitch
I watched with interest the messages coming through from Trevor Hardaker and the SA Rare Bird Facebook page, knowing that I would be going to Kasane in northern Botswana for a project I am involved in, during the 1st week in March. I also had a look at the map and realized that Katima Mulilo fell nicely within my “twitch limit” of around 2 hours drive, being about 120 kms from Kasane with a border crossing from Botswana to Namibia to negotiate along the way. So, if the Leafloves hung around until then, I planned to “pop over” the border for a quick visit and hopefully a new tick on my life list for Southern Africa.
Tuesday 1st March
Come Tuesday, I caught the daily flight from Joburg to Kasane – a day early for my site visit so that I could spend a night in Katima Mulilo (KM) and be back in time for the project commitments the following day. I had arranged for a bakkie (pickup) to be available and shortly after landing I set off for KM via Ngoma border post. The border formalities went smoothly, perhaps because I was the only customer in an hour or two.
From Kasane to Ngoma the public road (tarred) bisects the northernmost section of Chobe Game Reserve and the landscape is pristine woodland all the way.
The road to Katima Mulilo
Once into the Caprivi in Namibia, the scenery changes to more open, patchy woodland interspersed with small settlements and small-scale agriculture.
I arrived at the lodge by 4.30 pm and settled into the rustic accommodation on the river in unit No 5, which is right alongside the tree where the Leafloves were nesting.
Caprivi Houseboat LodgeThe rustic cabin at Caprivi Houseboat LodgeView from the cabin
I immediately saw one of the young chicks peering over the edge of the nest and within minutes the parents were in the vicinity and at the nest, bringing morsels and calling in a Babbler-like manner although less harsh.
The rest of the afternoon was spent re-visiting the nest site in the hope of getting better views / photos and exploring the small property with its jungle-like gardens and river views.
River views, Caprivi Houseboat LodgeRiver views, Caprivi Houseboat Lodge
It proved to be really challenging trying to get the Leafloves in my camera’s viewfinder for long enough to get a decent photo, as they seemed intent on hiding in the shadiest part of the foliage at every opportunity and when they did show themselves briefly, it was in an opening high up in the trees with bright light behind them.
Yellow-throated Leaflove
Other birders had arrived earlier and a few more arrived after me – we enjoyed a good evening meal together and then made our way to mosquito-netted beds in the rustic cabins, happy to be able to add the Leaflove to our life lists.
Wednesday 2nd March
In the morning the others were already gathered at the coffee and rusks and I tagged along with the small group as they set off for a birding walk along the dirt road outside the lodge, which turned out to be quite busy with early morning commuters on their way to places unknown.
Morning walk near the lodge
White-bowed Robin-Chat and Tropical Boubou were competing for loudest call as we walked and there was no shortage of other interesting species, such as :
Paradise and Grey-tit Flycatchers
Village Indigobird on the very top of a tree
Namaqua Dove perched on overhead wires
Brubru working its way through the foliage of a large tree
Little Sparrowhawk perched on an open branch
Copper Sunbird female peering from its nest in the roadside bush
Brown-crowned Tchagra posing beautifully on a nearby branch
Greater Blue-eared Starlings
African Golden Oriole – bright yellow against the green foliage
Copper Sunbird (Female) at nestFlame LilyBrown-crowned Tchagra
After the walk it was breakfast time followed by some further garden birding. A Schalow’s Turaco was calling and I followed the sound to find this lifer – a pair were moving about in the dense foliage of a tall tree, making it challenging to get a decent view or a photo. Fortunately I heard them again as I was leaving and found one on an open branch, almost inviting me to photograph this handsome species.
Schalow’s TuracoSchalow’s Turaco
The trip back to Kasane was uneventful, other than coming across a trio of elephants along the road traversing Chobe.
The road through Chobe
Another successful twitch and memories of a brief but busy trip that will stay with me for a long while.
I was overly optimistic when I started a series of blogs titled “Bird of the Week” – what was meant to evolve into a weekly study of a specific bird species has seen me publish just two such blogs in the past few months. No excuses other than being too busy working, birding and blogging on other subjects that I felt compelled to get down in writing.
The caption I have now adopted is more flexible and I will be producing a series of similar “Bird in the Lens” blogs from time to time (now that’s vague enough not to be accused of misleading anyone). So here goes with the next species…….
HAMERKOP
Species Names
Hamerkop (English and Afrikaans) One of just two SA species with the same name in English and Afrikaans. (The other one? Bokmakierie) Sometimes translated to the English equivalent “Hammerhead” but no one I know uses that name
uThekwane, Uqhimgqoshe (Indigenous)
Hammerkopf(German)
Ombrette d’Afrique (French) – rather nice sounding name
Hamerkop (Dutch)
Scopus Umbretta (Scientific) The beauty of scientific names is that they are common throughout the world no matter what country or the language spoken. The first part – Scopus – is the Genus which is derived from the latin for “broom of twigs” – so named for the huge nest of twigs that the Hamerkop builds, up to 1,5m across . The second part – Umbretta – is the species name which in this case means shade or shady, probably to describe its uniquely shaped crest, head and bill, which give it an umbrella-like appearance.
Where to find it
The Hamerkop is found right across Southern Africa with the exception of the very arid areas. Distribution is also widespread in the rest of Africa, but it is never common and always elicits a “hey look, there’s a Hamerkop” when seen.
My first sighting was in Kruger National Park in the late 1970’s, long before I took up birding seriously.
It is usually found near water and hunts at the water’s edge, sometimes venturing into the shallows to snatch its prey from the edge of the water. Prey is mostly toads whose distribution is very similar to the Hamerkop, suggesting that Hamerkops depend on toads for food.
The distribution map below is from SABAP2
Look …….. and Listen
There is very little chance of confusing this species with any other, although I have been misled once or twice by a Hadeda flying over at a distance. The anvil-shaped head and overall brown colouring are instantly recognisable as belonging to the Hamerkop.
This is a medium-sized bird, up to 56cm long and weighing up to 500g.
The call is not an identifier as it is mostly silent.
Punda Maria
Photography
Not a difficult bird to photograph, once you have found one near water, as it will not move around much if engrossed in hunting for a frog or other small prey.
Photos taken from the low water bridge between Skukuza and Tshokwane in Kruger National Park :
Other Stuff
Conservation status is listed as “Not threatened”. Where many species are suffering due to habitat loss, the Hamerkop is actually benefiting from irrigation schemes in arid areas. This is a survivor amongst bird species. It also features prominently in indigenous folklore, is regarded in awe and is generally unmolested.
Lifespan is 20 years or more.
Nests are massive structures built up out of hundreds of sticks and when completed they are decorated with anything that comes to hand …….. or beak – from cattle manure to dish cloths. One of my colleagues had the nickname Hamerkop given to him by the office general assistant, apparently due to his habit of hoarding all kinds of things at his home.
References
Roberts Birds of Southern Africa
Birdlife International
Birds of Africa South of the Sahara
SABAP2 (Maps)
Latin for BIrdwatchers (Roger Lederer and Carol Burr)
The birding world is full of twitchers – essentially they are the birders who are chasing numbers (of species seen) and who will go to considerable lengths to add a new species to their list of “lifers” (birds not previously seen/ticked) or to other lists such as regional, provincial, annual and the like.
Keen twitchers think nothing of getting on a plane and flying from Joburg to Cape Town, for example, to twitch a vagrant species that may have turned up in the area.
The size or appearance of a bird is not of great importance – a nondescript small bird can generate as much excitement as a larger, striking species, provided the scarcity factor is high.
Wkipedia has a nice definition and some further info on the subject :
“Twitching is a British term used to mean “the pursuit of a previously located rare bird.” In North America it is more often called chasing, though the British usage is starting to catch on there, especially among younger birders. The term twitcher, sometimes misapplied as a synonym for birder, is reserved for those who travel long distances to see a rare bird that would then be ticked, or counted on a list. The term originated in the 1950s, when it was used for the nervous behaviour of Howard Medhurst, a British birdwatcher. Prior terms for those who chased rarities were pot-hunter, tally-hunter, or tick-hunter. The main goal of twitching is often to accumulate species on one’s lists. Some birders engage in competition to accumulate the longest species list. The act of the pursuit itself is referred to as a twitch or a chase. A rare bird that stays put long enough for people to see it is twitchable or chaseable.”
Where does that Place Me?
Well, I enjoy listing the species I have seen, but there are limits as to how far I will go to view and tick a new species – my rule of thumb is that I will consider it if it is within one to two hour’s road travel, as long as it does not disrupt my normal routines too much.
Previous attempts to twitch a couple of rarities which have been reported on the SA Rare Bird News platform (an excellent and valuable service provided by Trevor Hardaker – you can ask to join the group via email to Trevor at hardaker@mweb.co.za ) have met with mixed success, mainly due to me being too slow off the mark, so that by the time I get around to visiting the spot where a rarity has been reported, the bird has moved on to greener pastures .. or cleaner water or wherever.
However, I have had some success over the last month or two, which has changed my view of twitching just a bit – nothing like adding a new species or having the chance to photograph it to get the happy juices flowing!
Here is a selection of my recent twitches :
Pacific Golden Plover : Gouritzmond, Western Cape
I had started the morning of 14 December 2015 by atlasing a pentad along the Herbertsdale road outside Mossel Bay, where we have a home and decided to drive to Gouritzmond nearby to see if I could find the Pacific Golden Plover reported there since October.
The difficult part was finding the site of the “boat launch” which was the only info given out and I spent some time driving around the town looking for a spot where boats were launched, but eventually had to admit defeat and actually ask someone. If I had been awake driving into town from the inland side I would have noticed the tell-tale sign just outside town.
At the boat launch it was quite busy with visiting boaters and fishermen, but finding the Plover took less than a minute as it moved, unperturbed by all the activity, up and down the muddy shoreline of the Gouritz river. I approached carefully and was able to get some nice shots as it probed the shallows and flew a short distance before settling again. A very simple “twitch” this time.
Caspian Plover : Hanover, Northern Cape
We were on the way back to Pretoria from Mossel Bay in mid January 2016, doing it in a few stages as is our wont.
Knowing we would be passing Hanover I kept it in the back of my mind that a Caspian Plover had been reported from a nearby guest farm called New Holme and when I saw we had time to spare, I proposed a “quick diversion” to Gerda who, used to me springing birding surprises on her, agreed, so we took the farm road for 8 kms to the homestead hoping for a quick sighting and turnaround.
The owner PC Ferreira was busy with new guests booking in, but he pointed us towards the area where the plover had been seen and we duly covered the area as best we could for about half an hour, scanning the plains for the elusive bird, but without success – lots of Kittlitz’s Plovers, some Namaqua Sandgrouse but no Caspians.
Back at the ranch … er farmhouse, PC was free and refused to let me go without seeing his “special bird”, so I joined him, his little daughter and two dogs in his bakkie and we headed back to the short-grassed area where his sheep were grazing and within minutes we had found the Caspian Plover. It was good enough to pose nicely at a distance. Another success!
Red Phalarope : Mkhombo Dam, Mpumulanga
I had tried for this species a year or two previously but it had moved on before I got to it, so I was keen to try for it when an individual was reported during January 2016 at Mkhombo Dam, which lies north of Pretoria, within my two-hour limit.
In the end it took two visits a few days apart to track it down and it disappeared shortly thereafter so I was just in time. On the second visit I met up with George and Barbara Skinner as arranged and we followed the track which skirts the western side of the dam, finding the Phalarope without too much effort where it was swimming up and down in a small bay formed by the slowly receding water.
The muddy fringe did not allow a close approach, but I walked as far as I could to get a reasonable photo.
Mkhombo Dam
Spotted Crake : Waterfall Estate, Gauteng
I hardly imagined I would see this particular species without going to some far-off location and spending lots of time searching for it. As it turned out this was one of the easiest and most popular twitches on record in SA, seen by well over 1000 birders so far and still going strong as I write this.
I decided it was too good an opportunity to miss when it turned up unexpectedly at one of the main gates to the Waterfall Estate in Midrand, between Joburg and Pretoria and made the pilgrimage one morning before going to the office. It was not visible when I arrived but made an appearance a few minutes later, trotting up and down in the shallows of the man-made pond, occasionally popping behind the reeds before coming into view again.
It has become a famous bird and a superstar of the SA birding scene in a short space of time!
Waterfall Estate
So I am feeling quite pleased with my twitching efforts, adding four diverse species in four very different localities spread across South Africa.
OK I’ve never heard of him either, but this line from his book nicely sums up our approach to travel – we like to take it slow and easy on our longer road trips, and we love visiting new places, be they towns not visited before or just a guest house on the way that we have not used before.
Last November, when we travelled to Mossel Bay for our annual long stay, we decided to make an overnight stop at the Karoo National Park near Beaufort West, in the heart of the Karoo, before tackling the last stretch to Mossel Bay.
We have stayed in many of our National Parks at one time or another but never in this particular one – one night is not much on which to judge a place but we made the most of our short time there and came away more than impressed.
The Park
Proclaimed in 1979, the rest camp was opened in 1989 and the park now covers around 90,000 hectares which can be explored along the park’s 130 kms of scenic drives. The Park holds a variety of wildlife including Lion and several antelope species such as Eland, Springbok, Red Hartebeest and Klipspringer.
Animals such as Aardwolf, Bat-eared Fox, Caracal and Brown Hyena occur here, all sought after species for those who like finding the more unusual species, although being nocturnal species they are not easily seen.
The varying altitudes and Karoo habitat make for an environment which provides a home to animal and plant species not generally found elsewhere.
Exploring the park
Once settled in our chalet, around 5 pm, I took a short drive in the immediate vicinity of the chalets and found a bird hide overlooking a small pond with dense reeds, where I was able to spend quality time viewing the bird life. The reeds were alive with Weavers and Bishops, which afforded close-up views as they went about their business, chattering away like excited teenagers on a school outing. In the water were Little Grebe, Grey Heron and Moorhen.
Southern Masked-WeaverSouthern Red BishopSouthern Red Bishop (Female)
A short drive down the main entrance road, bordered on both sides by typical Karoo scrub, produced a few of the species that favour this habitat, such as Karoo Scrub-Robin (love its Afrikaans name of “Slangverklikker” which translates to “Snake detector”), Rufous-eared Warbler, Lark-Like Bunting, Grey-backed Cisticola and a lone Karoo Long-billed Lark on top of a small bush, calling with its distinctive loud descending whistle.
Karoo Longbilled Lark
As the sun set I headed back to the comfortable chalet with its million dollar view of the surrounding mountains.
We had not made any provision for self-catering and made our way to the Park’s restaurant for a most enjoyable meal, served by the super-friendly staff (no, I don’t get paid for this, they really are great). While eating we heard the churring sound of a nightjar – either European or Rufous-cheeked which are similar sounding.
White-necked Raven
Next morning, before breakfast I ventured a bit further, taking the Klipspringer Pass that winds its way up into the surrounding mountains, affording wonderful views of the surrounding Karoo landscape.
Scanning the ridges at one point I was thrilled to find a Short-toed Rock-Thrush – a species I had only seen for the first time a few months earlier – this is something that happens time and again – takes years to find a particular species but once the ice is broken you see it easily. Close by a Klipspringer was standing elegantly on a rocky ledge, unperturbed by the sheer drop below.
Short-toed Rock-Thrush (taken long-distance – excuse the quality)Klipspringer
Up on the plateau the views were outstanding and enjoying them with me were African Pipit, Mountain Wheatear and Karoo Long-billed Lark (again). On the way back down the twisty road a pair of Verraux’s Eagles cruised far below and settled on the rocks.
African Pipit
After breakfast it was time to leave – our stay had been too short, albeit long enough to rate this as a well-run, friendly and desirable place to spend a few days – even the outside brass taps were shiny, a sure sign of excellent management!
The last birds to greet us on the way out were Pririt Batis – such a distinctive call – and Ostrich, which I was happy to tick, being in a National Park.
This lesser known route is not renowned for its big five sightings but there is every chance of seeing a variety of game, with the added pleasure of getting off the beaten track for a while and enjoying a picnic spot that you will often have all to yourselves.
The route starts by heading south from Satara camp for about 10 kms where you turn right (west) on to the S 126 which marks the start of the gravel road to Muzandzeni picnic spot, a drive of about 22 kms which should take an hour or more, including stops to view game and birds as you come across them.
This stretch winds along the Sweni river for much of the way, but don’t expect there to be water during the winter months and early summer before the rains set in. The roadside scenery is dominated by many large trees, interspersed with open areas which look ideal for the big cats to use as hunting grounds.
After a break at Muzandzeni, whether for coffee/tea, or a full-blown brunch, the best way back to Satara is to complete the circle by heading north along the S 36 gravel road which joins up with the H7 Orpen-Satara tar road after about 10 kms and from there it’s an easy 20 km run along the H7 back to Satara, with a recommended stop at the Nsemani dam which usually has something of interest.
Habitat
This description from the krugerpark.co.za website sums up nicely what to expect along the Sweni river road (S 126):
“The Sweni River Road is a surprisingly tropical landscape given that it is so far south of the Tropic of Capricorn. Many old Kruger hands insist that it is the Sweni that marks the start of the north rather than the Olifants River. Southern Lala-palms and combretums dominate the grassy floodplains between the river and the road, giving the bush a distinctly Zimbabwean feel”
An extract from the Kruger Park map book shows the route :
The Drive
We made our way slowly along the S 126 to Muzandzeni, stopping for a number of raptors, including a pair of preening Bateleurs close to the road, which we sat and observed for some time, and a pale form of Wahlberg’s Eagle perched in a tall tree.
Vultures and particularly nesting Vultures were a feature of this drive as we encountered at least 4 different nests with Vultures in attendance. Vultures that we identified included the common White-backed Vultures, of which there were many, as well as the scarcer Lappet-faced, Hooded and White-headed Vultures.
The average visitor to Kruger probably won’t spend much time looking at vultures, other than to see if they are near a kill, but the chances of seeing four Vulture species on one drive are slim, so I for one was very appreciative of these sightings.
Rounding off the raptor feast was a large Tawny Eagle, always impressive to look at and ruggedly good-looking.
Tawny Eagle
Game was a bit sparse compared to some of the other drives we had done around Satara but we nevertheless enjoyed some good sightings of small groups of the more common species, including Kudus backlit by the early morning light, a lone Steenbok resting in the grass and a few Dwarf Mongeese (oh-oh should have seen that coming, now I’ve got to figure out the plural of Mongoose – it’s actually Mongooses!)
Kudu beautifully backlit by early morning sonDwarf Mongoose
Mosque Swallows were a nice surprise – in my experience they are usually only seen a lot further north in Baobab country.
Mosque Swallow
Muzandzeni Picnic spot
The picnic spot has a remote feeling to it – like being in the “middle of nowhere” – don’t be surprised if an Ellie or two passes by on the way to the nearby waterhole, also favoured by Zebra amongst others.
MuzandzeniZebra, MuzandzeniZebra juvenile, fluffy stripes and all
Our brunch was leftover steak from the previous night’s braai, cut into strips and fried on the skottel with onions and tomato, then plied onto a hamburger bun – delicious!
Muzandzeni brunch – leftovers never tasted so good!
Back to Satara
Heading back we were on the lookout for the lions at a buffalo kill that we had heard about from Andre’s brother Eddie, visiting from Holland, and sure enough they were at the spot he had described, near an almost bare buffalo carcass.
With the temperature nudging 38 degrees C, we were happy to head back to Satara for a relaxing rest of the day, having extracted the maximum enjoyment from yet another Kruger drive.
Steenbok taking to the shade
A surprise awaited us at the rondavel, in the form of a Fruit Bat , hanging under the thatched overhang – quite a cute looking bat don’t you think? Like a teddy bear with wings.
Just when you thought it was safe to go into 2016, here is another of those pesky “looking back at 2015” stories. Apologies but I just have to do it – so here is my review of my birding year, for what it is worth.
It has been another busy year of travel for Gerda and myself, in between maintaining our normal home routines, however this time around we did not do any “overseas” trips but confined ourselves to travel within South Africa. In addition my birding took me to Mozambique for a dedicated 2 week birding extravaganza and work-related trips took me to northern Botswana, where I was able to fit in some wonderful birding and game viewing – all in all it made for another interesting year…….
January
The year started, as it has over the past couple of years, in Mossel Bay where we have a second home and I used the opportunity to do some atlasing in the Golf Estate where our house is located and in the surrounding area. (reminder : “atlasing” is the recording of bird species in an area called a Pentad, defined by coordinates, about 8 x 8 kms in extent, with the data collected going to a database at the University of Cape Town)
Gerda joined me for a morning of atlasing near Albertinia, with breakfast and coffee stops to make it a pleasant outing for both of us.
Malachite Sunbird on flowering sisal trees, near Albertinia
From the 9th to 12th we did a short trip through the Western Cape, spending one night in Swellendam and two more visiting Johan and Rosa in Worcester. I managed to sneak in some atlasing as we went without turning up anything of note.
On the 16th it was time to leave Mossel Bay and return to Gauteng but not without making the most of the journey – two nights in Prince Albert in the Karoo and one in Hoopstad in the Free State made sure of that.
Karoo Chat (Juvenile), Prince AlbertKurrichane Buttonquail in mielie (corn) fields, Hoopstad
February
Undoubtedly the highlight of my birding year started on 29th January with a two week birding trip through Mozambique as part of a group of 10 in four vehicles. The full report appears in my posts from earlier in 2015 and it is difficult to isolate the highlights as every day was full of them, but here are a few that were really special and the “Lifers” that went with them :
Early morning on the Limpopo floodplain with Sedge Warblers and Rufous-winged Cisticolas
Limpopo floodplain near Xai-Xai
Birding on the mudflats at Imhambane and Lighthouse beach nearby – Lesser Sand Plover, Lesser Crested Tern and Crab Plover
The mudflats, InhambaneLesser Sand Plover, InhambaneMixed Terns, Lighthouse beach Barra
Driving through dense woodland to the Panda area to view Olive-headed Weaver, Green Tinkerbird, Woodward’s Batis and Livingstone’s Flycatcher, amongst a plethora of other desirable species
Panda WoodlandOlive-headed Weaver, Panda Woodland
Lunch stop in more dense woodland which was alive with bird life, adding Red-winged Warbler
Dragging a rope across pristine floodplains of the Rio Savane near Beira in hot, humid weather, hoping to flush some of the specials – Great Snipe was one reward
Rio SavaneRio Savane (Photo ; George Skinner)
Photographing a warbler in the Rio Maria area, which turned out to be Basra Reed Warbler, a southern Africa megatick
Basra Reed Warbler, Rio Maria Beira
Mphingwe camp and the surrounding pristine forests of the Catapu area which produced a multitude of magnificent lifers – Ayre’s Hawk-Eagle, Barred Long-tailed Cuckoo, Mangrove Kingfisher, Tiny Greenbul, White-crested Alethe, East Coast Akalat, Black-headed Apalis, Plain-becked Sunbird, and Broad-taled Paradise Whydah
Black-bellied Starling, Mphingwe campMangrove Kingfisher, Coutada 12 area
A memorable trip to the Zambezi to view Bohm’s Bee-eater and several other special birds (not to mention the atrocious road and the failed propshaft bearing of my vehicle)
Collared Palm-Thrush, in palm grove on the Road to SenaSouthern Banded Snake-Eagle, Road to SenaBohm’s Bee-Eater, Rademan’s Farm on Zambezi River
Chestnut-fronted Helmetshrike, Coutada 12 areaBush driving (Photo ; George Skinner)
Mphingwe camp – enforced longer stay due to car repairs but also time to explore the surrounds and home in on some beautiful butterflies
March
A weekend in Cape Town revolved around the Cape Town Cycle Tour which I had entered – no time for any intensive birding but we did enjoy a walk through Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens and some lightweight birding in Stellenbosch where we stayed in the Devon Valley Hotel
On the 14th I joined Koos Pauw for some interesting atlasing at the Baviaanspoort Water Treatment works (ie Sewage farm) where a pale form Steppe Buzzard had us postulating for some time.
Common (Steppe) Buzzard (Pale), Baviaanspoort
27th saw us heading to Mossel Bay for the Easter holidays, with a stop over at Prior Grange near Springfontein – a favourite overnight spot in the Free State with some excellent birding on the farm and the surrounds
April
During our stay in Mossel Bay I confined my birding to the immediate area with one atlasing trip to Albertinia.
Orange-breasted Sunbird, near Albertinia
A short trip to the Western Cape included a stay in McGregor on the 12th and some exploration of the Robertson area and Greyton – I squeezed in some atlasing as we went
Back in Pretoria Koos and I atlased in the Kwamhlanga area on the 25th, which produced some surprisingly good birding – near a vlei we saw Lanner Falcon, African Quail-Finch and heard African Rail in quick succession. Soon after, in a hilly, rocky area along a side road, I was thrilled to find Short-toed Rock-Thrush posing beautifully in a dry tree, a lifer for me.
Short-toed Rock-Thrush, Kwamhlanga
May
My first trip to Kasane in northern Botswana from 5th to 7th for a project I am involved in, was the first of many for the year and a chance to explore the natural delights of Chobe National Park in between work commitments. This trip was all about excellent game viewing experiences with enough birding to whet my appetite for later visits.
Bateleur (Juvenile), Chobe Game ReserveRed-billed Oxpecker, Chobe Game Reserve
More atlasing on the 16th (Kwamhlanga area) and 25th (Delmas area) and 30th (Coalfields around Ogies), produced some memorable species.
Ogies AreaCape Longclaw. Ogies area CoalfieldsLevaillant’s Cisticola, Delmas area
June
Winter atlasing in the dry grasslands near Bronkhorstspruit on 6th was followed two days later by atlasing near Balfour after a two hour drive through early morning traffic.
The same day I visited Marievale Bird Sanctuary for some relaxed birding and photography at this wonderful venue, which I had all to myself, it being a Monday.
18th to 25th was Koos and Rianda’s timeshare week at Verlorenkloof, which we were once again invited to share with them, unquestionably our favourite place for superb birding and relaxation and it produced many highlights as usual.
Bald Ibis, VerlorenkloofBlack-winged Lapwing, VerlorenkloofCape Rock-Thrush, VerlorenkloofChorister Robin-Chat, VerlorenkloofAfrican Golden Weaver, Verlorenkloof
July
Saturday 4th was time for more winter atlasing, this time south of Balmoral with the challenge being ID’ing the seed eating species in their drab winter plumage – the watchword is definitely “practice makes perfect”.
Orange-breastsed Waxbill, Balmoral area
Another trip to Kasane, another chance to visit Chobe, followed on the 7th to 9th.
Yellow-billed Stork, Chobe Game ReserveSenegal Coucal, Chobe Game Reserve
Our winter trip to Mossel Bay started on the 12th and we only returned on the 1st of August. Birding was confined to Mossel Bay for the first 10 days due to cold, wet weather which gave me the chance to atlas the Golf Estate thoroughly and watch the birds coming to our feeder.
Gerda joined me for a short trip to Klein Brak and the beautiful countryside, green and lush after the substantial rains
My only specific atlasing trip was along the Herbertsdale road with some good birding in the two pentads.
Cape Robin-Chat, Mossel Bay-Herbertsdale
Our trip to Robertson to taste the culinary and birding delights followed – see my separate post on this trip.
Swee Waxbill, Orange Grove Guest farm near Robertson
August
A late winter trip to Kasane on the 4th to 6th produced some memorable game and bird sightings once again.
Marabou Stork, Chobe Game ReserveKori Bustard, Chobe Game ReserveRed-billed Oxpecker, Chobe Game Reserve
Koos and I atlased the De Wildt area on the 8th with some interesting sightings
September
Another Kasane trip on the 8th to 11th included a day trip to Victoria Falls to view the new airport under construction and an afternoon visit to the Falls
Red-billed Firefinch (Male), Victoria Falls
We managed to squeeze in a Chobe Riverfront drive with some stunning sightings being the reward
An atlasing trip on the 19th to dusty, sprawling Garankuwa north of Pretoria produced more than expected with lovely sightings of Fairy Flycatcher, Striped Kingfisher and others
Golden-breasted Bunting, Lethlabile North WestFairy Flycatcher, Lethlabile North West
October
One of the year’s highlights came up in October with a week long visit to Satara camp in Kruger, documented in several separate posts, followed by another highlight when our timeshare week at Verlorenkloof came up just afterwards from 16th to 20th, producing some of the best birding ever in this superb locality
Back to Kasane on 6th to 8th and more of Chobe Riverfront, but this time, accompanied by another keen birder – Derek Thomas, we did some proper atlasing in this amazing slice of Africa and in a new (for us) location – Kasane Water Treatment Works
The 13th saw me heading to Mkhombo dam area for an atlasing session, with a visit to the dam to see if some of the special birds seen during the preceding weeks were still around.
Before we knew it, we found the year was rapidly running out as we packed once again for the trip down to Mossel Bay for our end-of-year long visit. On the way we stopped over in Hoopstad for two nights, one on the farm where I was able to fit in some good birding walks and drives.
Our second stopover was at Karoo National Park where we enjoyed the quiet Karoo atmosphere and some good birding.
Southern Masked-Weaver, Karoo National ParkSouthern Red Bishop, Karoo National Park
In Mossel Bay my first atlasing trip was to the area west of the village Ruiterbos in beautiful rolling countryside
December
The last visit to Kasane on 2nd to 4th was another opportunity to atlas in Chobe and in Kasane itself at some spots located by Derek
Broad-billed Roller, Seboba Nature Park KasaneAfrican Golden Oriole, Seboba Nature Park KasaneCommon Sandpiper, Chobe RiverfrontWhite-browed Coucal, Chobe Riverfront
Back in Mossel Bay I saw the year out with some fine atlasing around Herbertsdale, Vöelvlei and Gouritzmond
Pacific Golden Plover, GouritzmondBlack-winged Stilt, Voëlvlei near GouritzmondAfrican Spoonbill, Voëlvlei near GouritzmondDiderik Cuckoo, Herbertsdale south
Here’s a selection of my photos from places visited in 2015 – mostly from places that support my favourite pastime of birding.
The Places
Sunset, Inhambane – MozambiqueNear Springfontein Free StateMcGregor, Western CapeSunset, Chobe RiverCanola fields along Herbertsdale road near Mossel BayAloes along the Ashton-Swellendam roadVictoria Falls, ZimbabweRuiterbos area near Mossel Bay
The Animals
Leopard, Chobe Game ReserveGiraffe at waterhole, Chobe Game ReserveAfrican Wild Dog, Kasane areaElephant at sunset, Chobe Game ReserveAfrican Lion, Chobe Game ReserveOlifants camp viewpointBurchell’s Zebra, Satara – Nwanetsi S100Zebra juvenile, SataraPride of Lions, Chobe Riverfront
The Birds
Hottentot Teal, MarievaleMalachite Kingfisher, MarievaleLanner Falcon, VerlorenkloofJackal Buzzard with nest material, Mossel Bay-HerbertsdaleGlossy Ibis, Chobe Game ReserveRed-billed Oxpecker, Chobe Game ReserveTrumpeter Hornbill, Victoria FallsBrown-headed Parrot, Satara – Orpen H7Orange-breasted Bush-Shrike, SataraDrakensberg Prinia, VerlorenkloofMalachite Sunbird, Valsriviermond
Others
Painted Reed Frog, MozambiqueGold-banded forester, MozambiqueMostly Buffalo, Chobe Game ReserveMoon shot with I-phoneTree Squirrel, Satara
Best wishes to all for 2016 and hope you enjoy my ramblings as much as I enjoy recording them in words and photos!
With part of our family group otherwise engaged (Andre and Megan had returned to Joburg for a schools competition) and the remainder taking the opportunity to spend some quality time in Satara, I used the opportunity on two mornings to do some birdmapping (that’s the new terminology for “atlasing”) at my own pace ie driving at an ultra-slow pace and stopping frequently, which is the best way to birdmap / atlas effectively but can be frustrating for those not involved in the process.
Both birdmapping drives took me to Timbavati picnic spot for a coffee and rusks break and when Andre and Megan returned it was the destination of choice once again, making it three visits in all during the week.
The Routes
There are a few options when heading to Timbavati, which lies north-west of Satara, and the choice of route will depend on how much time you wish to spend driving and whether you prefer tar or gravel roads, the latter being a lot slower but often more productive.
One option is to take the H7 tarred road west towards Orpen, then turn off northwards onto the S40 gravel road at the Nsemani dam about 7 kms from Satara and follow this road to Timbavati.
Travelling further along the H7 will take you to turn-off to the S39 gravel road, which meanders along the Timbavati River for much of the way – a longer route but well worthwhile.
The other option is to head north from Satara towards Olifants along the H1-4, then take a left at the S127 which winds through arid bushveld for about 9 kms to the picnic spot. This route means less driving on gravel but is not as productive game-wise (and birding-wise) as the first options
Whichever route you choose it makes sense to take one of the other routes back to Satara so that you cover the greatest area and increase your chances of interesting sightings along the way.
Habitat
The S39 and S40 roads take you through mixed woodland with the S39 staying close to the Timbavati river, although during the dry season the river will be dry for most of the way other than a few pools left after the long dry winter
River Pool, Timbavati Road
The open plains are generally better for game while the mixed woodland provides good birding opportunities as well as the chance for some close encounters with game.
An extract from the Kruger Park map book shows the routes :
Satara to Timbavati routes
The Game
Game is not as abundant along the S39 and S40 as it is on the open plains east of Satara, however small groups of game are often encountered grazing or pursuing some other activity quite close to the road, affording good close-up views
On my first trip I came across two Lions at the Giravana water hole, just chilling as they are wont to do.
Regular sightings of some of my favourites kept things interesting – Giraffe, Kudu and Blue Wildebeest amongst others
GiraffeKuduKuduBlue wildebeest
No drive would be complete without coming across a monkey or two……
Vervet Monkey, always so alert
Surprise of the one trip was a brief Leopard sighting, seen crossing the river and disappearing into the thick bush before I could get a camera focused on him.
The Birding / Birdmapping
Taking it slow and easy to make the most of the available birds, I built up some healthy lists as I passed through the various pentads (roughly 8 x 8 kms square) on the way to Timbavati, spending a bit more time in some of the pentads which I had identified earlier as lacking some birdmap attention in 2015.
Highlights were many :
Gabar Goshawk swooping across the road and “attacking” a spider’s nest and apparently feeding on the contents
Gabar Goshawk
Black- and Brown-crowned Tchagras in quick succession in the roadside bushes
Kori Bustard pair in the long grass
Kori Bustard, Timbavati Road
Flock of White-winged Widowbirds still in their winter plumage
Red-billed Oxpeckers on a Zebra
Red-billed Oxpecker
Sabota Larks perched on top of trees and singing cheerfully
Black Crake patrolling a small pool
Black Crake
A handsome Tawny Eagle perched high up in a tall tree
Red-crested Korhaan calling in its distinctive fashion right next to the road, boldly showing its black front then turning to show just how well camouflaged it can be in the dry grass
Red-crested Korhaan – front view while calling – can hardly miss himRed-crested Korhaan – viewed from the back – now he is well camouflaged
Purple Roller
Purple Roller
Closer to Timbavati a Grey-Tit Flycatcher was moving through the canopy, emitting its typical high-pitched trilling call which I had only just got to grips with on this trip, having heard it several times in Satara as well.
Grey-Tit Flycatcher
More proof that many birds are extremely habitat specific was the numbers of European Bee-Eaters in one spot but nowhere else to be seen.
Timbavati Picnic Spot
The two mornings that I spent birdmapping, I arrived at Timbavati when it was quite busy – full of happy groups of visitors enjoying a brunch in this special setting overlooking the river, albeit dry at this time of year.
On the morning that we visited as a family we arrived a little earlier and had the place to ourselves for a while. Andre and Geraldine soon had the gas going and the skottel frying merrily and it wasn’t too long before we were tucking into another delicious brunch.
Timbavati picnic spot, before the visitors descend on it for brunchTimbavati brunch in preparationTimbavati still has the same chairs I remember from our first visits more than 40 years ago!
On the way to Timbavati we had taken the Olifants road then turned left onto the S127 – not much game was encountered but one lone, large elephant had us reversing a short way until he started feeding on the road verge and we grabbed the chance to get past safely. Interesting was the way he pulled out green bushes using his trunk and front leg in a sideways kicking motion to dislodge them from the hard dry ground.
Birding was slow that morning until we reached the picnic spot where several birds were vying for “loudest call” honours. Orange-breasted Bush-Shrike was a clear winner with its piercing but tuneful call from a nearby tree, but others were almost as active especially Crested Francolin and Natal Spurfowl trying to outdo each other with their equally raucous calls as they wandered around amongst the tables.
Back to Satara
On the return trip to Satara along the S127, a flock of Chestnut-backed Sparrowlarks made for an unusual sighting, as did a pair of tiny, colourful Quailfinches quenching their thirst at a small pool below a bridge on the tar road.
We had briefly diverted to Piet Grobler dam not far from the picnic spot, where a lone Yellow-billed Stork and Black-winged Stilt were new additions to the trip list, taking it to 126 species.
Yellow-billed Stork, Timbavati RoadTimbavati Road
Back at Satara it was time for a snooze and some relaxation to get us through the hot afternoon, with the temperature heading to the mid 30’s again.
The next drive during our stay in Satara was also one of my Kruger favourites – the drive eastwards from Satara to Nwanetsi picnic spot which lies close to the border with Mozambique.
We had planned to do a circuit, first taking the S100 gravel road eastwards, which branches off the H1-4 tarred road just south of Satara camp. This becomes the S41 to Nwanetsi and we would return via the H6 tarred road back to Satara.
At Nwanetsi there is a dam which can be viewed from a roofed viewpoint on the ridge overlooking it. The Sweni hide, overlooking a small dam, and the low water bridge can be accessed on the return trip by taking the branch left at the S37 and travelling for a few kms
Habitat
The S100 meanders through open tree savanna with mostly Marula, Knob-thorn acacia, Leadwood, Sickle-bush and Russet bushwillow trees. The H6 tarred road is more direct but passes through similar habitat
An extract from the Kruger Park map book shows the route :
Best to go out on the yellow S 100 road and return on the red H6 road
The Drive
An early start saw us driving the S100 – always good for plains game and today was no exception as we came across a selection of game in quick succession.
Signs of battles for dominance amongst the game were present – both Impala and Waterbuck were clashing horns. Nothing serious – more like a playful enactment of an ancient ritual as they butted each other lightly and tried to twist the opponent’s horns so that they would “bow” in submission.
Impala malesWaterbuck males
As we watched this we noticed a few cars gathered up ahead and immediately knew it was a “cat” sighting as no other event attracts so many cars in a short space of time. It turned out to be two Cheetahs some 150m from the road, lying and then standing, the one clearly pregnant judging by the heavy-looking belly.
Cheetah, Satara – Nwanetsi S100
Cheetahs are probably the most sought after sighting so we were really pleased to have been in the right spot for them.
Further along more excitement awaited, this time tinged with some tension as we rounded a bend and came across a fallen tree partly blocking the road, with the remaining opening ominously guarded by a large tusker. To add to the tension another large bull elephant was eyeing us from the bush to one side.
Elephant road block, Satara – Nwanetsi S100
With no way through we waited ……. and waited, but the two elephant guards showed no inkling to move along as they fed on the fallen tree. Eventually one motorist behind us braved the bush and looked for a way past without disturbing the ellies. They emerged on the other side and waved, so we followed suit and found a well-trodden game path running through the bush which they had used – we were soon speeding along to Nwanetsi for a much-needed toilet break!
All the while I was continuing to atlas the bird species we came across – so easy with the Birdlasser App which uses gps to automatically pinpoint the position of each sighting and allocate it to the correct pentad (5 x 5 minute block of co-ordinates which is about 8 x 8 km in size)
BateleurCrested FrancolinGoliath Heron
Nwanetsi
Time for a brunch and some birding around the picnic spot. I walked up the small hill to the viewpoint over the dam below and the bush stretching into the distance and found a number of species
Pied Kingfisher
Pied Wagtail amongst the rocks on the river
Great Egret flying between the ponds looking for the best fishing spot
Spectacled Weavers moving about busily and calling their sharp call
After brunch we left the picnic spot and headed firstly to the low water bridge on the S37 but found it dry and returned to the Sweni bird hide along the same road for a better view of the dam. There we found some Impala, warily approaching the water where a large crocodile was resident.
Crocodile, Sweni HideWary Impala, Sweni Hide
The resident bird population were going about their business while we watched from the comfortable hide
White-faced Ducks
White-faced Duck, Sweni Hide
Black Crake
Water Thick-Knee
Red-capped Robin-Chat (unusual in this habitat)
Red-capped Robin-Chat, Sweni Hide
Waders such as Wood Sandpiper and Three-banded Plover
The ubiquitous Egyptian Goose
Egyptian Goose, Sweni Hide
The rest of the journey back to Satara was on tar and with less game visible so we did not dawdle too much, nevertheless we enjoyed seeing Zebra close up with a juvenile whose stripes were still fluffy and brown – looking cute enough to want to pat him.
On the birding side we did spot a Brown Snake-Eagle and Red-crested Korhaan not far from the road
The rest of the day was a relaxing mix of our typical Kruger activities – some resting, enjoying the quiet of the camp, a swim late afternoon and closing out the day with a braai with the family.
Mostly Birding 