West Coast Wanderlust – Flowers, Birding and Small Towns (Part 2)

The Plan (Repeat from Part 1)

“Let’s do the flowers again” – I can’t recall whether it was me or Gerda that raised the thought earlier this year, but the immediate answer was “Yes!”

Translated, that means we were both keen to “do” the famed Spring flowers that bloom during August and September in parts of South Africa, in particular the West Coast and Namaqualand areas of our country.

With that decision made, we set about planning and booking a 14-night trip for the last two weeks of August, which would take us to some of the prime flower spots of the West Coast and Namaqualand during what we hoped would be the peak of the flower season

The plan we came up with looked like this –

  • 2 nights in Welbedacht Nature Reserve near Tulbagh (Covered in Part 1) – not part of a recognised flower route, but a convenient stopover before heading northwards to Namaqualand
  • 3 nights in Nieuwoudtville, Northern Cape, with the prospect of visiting several interesting spots that we had missed during our only previous visit in 2013
  • 3 nights in Clanwilliam with attractions such as the Cederberg and Biedouw Valley nearby, as well as Lambert’s Bay within an hour’s drive
  • 3 nights in Darling, not part of our previous itineraries, brimming with possibilities, and finally..
  • 3 nights in Paternoster on the coast, a place that we have got to know from a couple of previous visits and not far from the West Coast National Park

Day 3 – Welbedacht Nature Reserve to Nieuwoudtville

With a 290 km journey ahead, we did not have to rush and left at the “check out by” time of 11 am, sad to leave this piece of paradise with its constant birdsong and not another soul seen except a glimpse of the people in the neighbouring cottage on our way in.

The route

The weather was fine and warm, the roads quiet, so we had a relaxed drive and time to stop a few times. The route took us through farming areas of the Swartland and small towns such as Gouda and Porterville, then onto the N7 national road northwards all the way to Vanrhynsdorp.

Canola fields near Porterville

Our stops along the route were –

  • Kole & Deeg Coffee shop in Tulbagh – for take away coffees and four of the superb Pasteia de natas we knew from an earlier visit
  • Kardoesie Padstal in the Piekenierskloof Pass for quiches (tonight’s supper) and some other goodies including Weskus Pinotage and Rose wines.

At Vanrhynsdorp we branched off the N7 towards Nieuwoudtville (the locals pronounce it Nee-oat-ville) and for the next 40 kms drove the road across the flat semi-arid landscape known as the Knersvlakte – which translates literally to “gnashing plain”.

The Afrikaans name describes the loud crunching sound that early wagon wheels made when grinding over the hard white quartz gravel that covers the region’s terrain.

Vanrhynsdorp – Nieuwoudtville road
Vygies, Vanrhynsdorp – Nieuwoudtville road
Abandoned farmhouse, Vanrhynsdorp – Nieuwoudtville road

Van Rhyns Pass, which connects the Knersvlakte with Nieuwoudtville, can be seen a long way off, presenting as a long rising gash across the face of the mountainside.

Van Rhyns Pass in the distance

We arrived at the curiously named Linda se Dop, the guesthouse we had booked for our three night stay in Nieuwoudtville, at 4.30 pm and were soon settled in after having to get our suitcases and bags, etc up a longish flight of stairs.

Linda se Dop Guesthouse, Nieuwoudtville

It was still warm, and I was feeling the exertion of getting our baggage to the room – what better way to cool down than a swim in the inviting pool. No other guests seemed interested and I soon found out why – the water was icy cold and it took a while before I was fully immersed. After a few lengths I climbed slowly out, my limbs feeling quite numb, yet it had the invigorating effect I had hoped for.

Following that, I went for a short walk in the vicinity of the guesthouse, which is located in a sparsely populated part of the town with large stands, and I was soon admiring the flowers I came across – mostly different from those we had found so far.

Nieuwoudtville flowers
Groundsel , Nieuwoudtville
Gazanias, Nieuwoudtville

Supper was the quiche from Kardoesie padstal accompanied by the Weskus Pinotage which proved to be a good buy at R95.

Birding highlights

  • Birding highlight of the day was when Gerda shouted “STOP” just after Vanrhynsdorp – the reason for her urgency turned out to be a pair of Ludwig’s Bustards walking in the low scrub. This was only my second ever sighting of this species, the first was back in 2012 in the same area while touring the flower spots for the first time.

Day 4 – Nieuwoudtville: Quiver Trees, Flowers and a Waterfall

Our first full day in Nieuwoudtville was fine and warm, even hot at times, and presented an opportunity to see some of the sights that we had missed during our short visit in 2012.

Guesthouse owner Linda gave us a rundown of the recommended places to visit after a “gentleman’s hour” continental breakfast.

One of the pleasures of ‘doing’ the flowers is that the blooms are best viewed between 10 to 11 am and 4 to 5 pm, as they are fully open during those hours, providing it is not overcast. So there is no need to rush and relaxed breakfasts are the norm, followed by a slow drive along the day’s route.

Accordingly, we left the guesthouse after 11am and headed through town, then north along the road to Loeriesfontein, driving slowly enough to be able to spot flowers and birds, both of which were not plentiful at first, but every stop produced something of interest.

Farm alongside the Loeriesfontein road

The habitat changed from open farmland to Karoo scrubland and after about 20km we reached the turnoff to our first destination of Gannabos and, a few kms down a bumpy gravel road, the gate to the Quiver Tree Forest.

Gannabos – Quiver Tree Forest
Quiver Tree Forest, Gannabos

Gerda explored the area near the gate while I walked the narrow track to where the Quiver trees started and further to where groups of trees spread across the stony, hilly terrain, displaying their other-worldly form and bark.

Quiver Tree Forest, Gannabos
Quiver Tree bark

Quiver trees clearly do not need much soil to grow -this one was clinging to the rock face like a professional rock climber

Quiver Tree Forest, Gannabos

In between, the ground was sparsely covered with mostly nondescript plants but here and there were unusual succulents and vygies, some of which attracted butterflies coloured white, orange, and deep blue.

The most unusual succulent was the oddly named Willybush – now what prompted them to call it that?

Willybush Augea capensis , Gannabos
Painted Lady butterfly vanessa cardui , Gannabos
Yellow Gazania Gazania lichtensteinii, Gannabos
Vygies and a butterfly (possibly a Blue Pansy) Gannabos
Rain Daisy Genus Dimorphotheca , Gannabos

Our next stop, on the way back, was at the Nieuwoudtville Waterfall reserve entrance, where a couple of locals were selling their wares from tables shaded by open tents – we succumbed to temptation and bought pancakes which we had straight away, plus home made iced rooibos tea and chocolate cookies for later.

The waterfall viewing point was a short walk along a track into the reserve, lined with interesting plants and flowers which attracted their share of insects and birds.

Pathway to the viewing point, Nieuwoudtville Waterfall, Klippe Rivier
Yellow Milkbush Euphorbia mauritanica Geelmelkbos, Nieuwoudtville Waterfall, Klippe Rivier

The waterfall came into view as we approached the rocky platform at the edge of the gorge and was quite spectacular despite the low water flow – the height of 90m made it special.

Nieuwoudtville Waterfall, Klippe Rivier
Nieuwoudtville Waterfall, Klippe Rivier

On the way out another stall run by a pair of local ladies attracted our attention, and we left with raw honey and dried peaches, pleased that we could support these entrepreneurs in a small way.

Old homestead Near Waterfall

By this time, we were happy to return to the guesthouse, however on the way back our curiosity got the better of us and we turned off onto another gravel track closer to town to find the flowers that Linda had told us we would find at Willemsrivier.

Daisies, Willemsrivier near Nieuwoudtville

We were rewarded with a short drive through fields of mostly yellow flowers, dominated by Katstertjies (Cat’s tails) and I spent some time taking photos of this beautiful spread of colour.

Willemsrivier near Nieuwoudtville
Water Catstails Bulbinella nutans Geelkatsterte, Willemsrivier near Nieuwoudtville
Soft Felicia Felicia amoena Bloumagriet, Willemsrivier near Nieuwoudtville
Water Catstails Bulbinella nutans Geelkatsterte, Willemsrivier near Nieuwoudtville

After that we made our way back for a welcome rest before enjoying a dinner at the guesthouse, with bobotie prepared by Linda and chatty table neighbours from Ogies, not far from our old hometown of Pretoria, who turned out to be large scale mielieboere (maize farmers)

Birding highlights :

  • Pale Chanting Goshawk on the road to Gannabos
  • White-throated Canary at the Quiver Tree Forest
  • Capped Wheatear calling from a bush-top at the Quiver Forest
Capped Wheatear. Oenanthe pilesta. Hoëveldskaapwagter
  • Mountain Wheatear among the Quiver trees
  • Cape Bunting, Karoo Scrub-Robin and Familiar Chat on the pathway to the waterfall
Cape Bunting Emberiza capensis. Rooivlerkstreepkoppie
  • Large-billed Lark (several) in the open fields
  • Pale-winged Starlings at the waterfall
Pale-winged Starling onychognatus nabouroup. Bleekvlerkspreeu
  • Spoonbill at the vleis at Willemsrivier

West Coast Wanderlust – Flowers, Birding and Small Towns (Part 1)

The Plan

“Let’s do the flowers again” – I can’t recall whether it was me or Gerda that raised the thought earlier this year, but the immediate answer was “Yes!”

Translated, that means we were both keen to “do” the famed Spring flowers that bloom during August and September in parts of South Africa, in particular the West Coast and Namaqualand areas of our country.

With that decision made, we set about planning and booking a 14-night trip for the last two weeks of August, which would take us to some of the prime flower spots of the West Coast and Namaqualand during what we hoped would be the peak of the flower season

There are many aspects of an extended road trip that appeal to Gerda and myself – chief among them is the freedom of not being bound to a rigid itinerary, but rather deciding day by day what we will be doing …. or not doing.

Having said that, my organised nature still demands a degree of planning that takes care of accommodation and ensures a relaxed trip with comfortable distances between stopovers.

The plan we came up with looked like this –

  • 2 nights in Welbedacht Nature Reserve near Tulbagh – not part of a recognised flower route, but a convenient stopover before heading northwards to Namaqualand
  • 3 nights in Nieuwoudtville, Northern Cape, with the prospect of visiting several interesting spots that we had missed during our only previous visit in 2013
  • 3 nights in Clanwilliam with attractions such as the Cederberg and Biedouw Valley nearby, as well as Lambert’s Bay within an hour’s drive
  • 3 nights in Darling, not part of our previous itineraries, brimming with possibilities, and finally..
  • 3 nights in Paternoster on the coast, a place that we have got to know from a couple of previous visits and not far from the West Coast National Park

Day 1 – Getting there

Mossel Bay to Welbedacht near Tulbagh

Final preparations for our departure started the day before – choosing the catering items we would need, packing most of our clothing requirements, sorting out the medical kit (essential at our age) and the paraphernalia that accompanies me on our road trips (cameras, binos, laptop, ipad) together with all the various batteries, cables and plugs to keep all of it working smoothly.

I was excited to try out my newest acquisition – an Iphone 17 – in the field as it were – more camera than phone, it has many of the features of my ‘fancy’ cameras, all packed into an unbelievably small package. I have made do for several years with a now outdated iphone SE – heck, even our Son-in-law said I deserved a better phone!

We left home at 10.30 am and travelled at our usual relaxed pace, which included stops at –

  • Oumeul outside Riversdale for coffee and one of the nicest savoury muffins ever – they call it a Four-cheese muffin, I call it a delight. We bought two more to take away after eating the first one at an outside table.
  • Nuy on the hill near Worcester for a late-ish lunch of Chicken mayo roosterkoek (a large bun baked over coals) – too much to complete so we doggy-bagged the rest for later in the evening
View from Nuy Restaurant near Worcester

Traffic was light for most of the trip and there was time to check out the verges and fields which had small patches of colourful flowers.

I pulled off the road at a couple of places, between Swellendam and Ashton and again between Robertson and Worcester, when I thought the concentration of flowers deserved a closer look.

Roadside near Ashton

That proved to be a good tactic as there were several different flowers at each stop, even though the area is not regarded as part of a flower route.

Brightfig (Vygies), roadside near Ashton

My new phone proved to be up to the task of photographing the flowers from different angles and producing nice crisp images.

Cushion Sorrel Oxalis convexula (Suring), roadside near Ashton
Velvet Storksbill Pelargonium candicans (Malva), roadside near Ashton
Mouse Dewfig Drosanthemum hispidum (Doublaarvygie), roadside between Robertson – Worcester
Gazania (Gousblom), roadside between Robertson – Worcester
Capeweed Arctotheca calendula (Botterblom), roadside between Robertson – Worcester

Welbedacht Nature Reserve

The outskirts of Tulbagh

After passing through Tulbagh, it was a short drive to the nature reserve, which we reached at 5pm on the dot and followed the whatsapp instructions to access the reserve, find our key in a box at the main complex and follow the track to our cottage set amongst trees well away from the other cottages. The last few kms were through the reserve itself and we were pleased to see a few animals such as antelope and Zebra.

We found it unusual that there was no one to welcome us and provide information about the cottage and reserve, as we are used to – in fact we did not see or meet any staff during our two night stay and simply dropped the key off in the same box on the way out. However, that didn’t detract from the stay, and we enjoyed the peace and quiet along with no disturbances whatsoever.

The cottage is compact with bedroom, living area and kitchen forming one space and a separate bathroom. What makes it special is the feeling of solitude and peace in natural surroundings, featuring fynbos and fields of flowers.

Cottage at Welbedacht Nature Resrerve near Tulbagh

Outside a small stoep looks out over the reserve and there is a small plunge pool adjacent to it, which I tried out later. (It’s heated so not as brave as it may sound)

Our evening meal was light – the rest of our roosterkoek with sides of sliced banana and tomato!

Birding highlights

My initial impression was that birdlife around the cottage was plentiful, with calls of Olive Thrush, Cape Grassbird, Bokmakierie and Blue Crane heard as the day ran out.

Evening brought the calls of the big three nighttime birds – Fiery-necked Nightjar, Spotted Thick-Knee and Spotted Eagle-Owl

Day 2 – Chilling in Welbedacht Nature Reserve

We awoke to a warm sunny day and decided to make it a ‘rest’ day and just stay at our cosy cottage all day. That was a good decision as we were feeling the effects of a particularly busy time of late.

The view of the reserve from the cottage

After a late lie in and breakfast, I spent time on the stoep boosting my bird list, then scouted around the cottage for interesting flowers. I followed that with a short walk along the track leading to the other cottages.

There were plenty of flowers – and birds – to keep me occupied, the birds are typical of those I know so well from the Mossel Bay fynbos habitat, with Yellow and Cape Canaries and Streaky-headed Seedeaters visible and audible throughout the day.

Streaky-headed Seedeater Crithagra gularis (Streepkopkanarie), Welbedacht Nature Resrerve near Tulbagh

Karoo Prinias were not far behind, and Cape Robin-Chats made regular visits to the patio in the hope of picking up crumbs from our breakfast rusks.

Karoo Prinia Prinia maculosa (Karoolangstertjie), Welbedacht Nature Reserve
Cape Robin-Chat Cossypha caffra (Gewone janfrederik), Welbedacht Nature Reserve

Flowers were colourful and varied, with two that were growing close to the cottage stimulating our curiosity, until Gerda matched the photos with illustrations in her wildflowers book and found that both were a type of wild Orchid.

It’s easy to overlook a flower when it is surrounded by undergrowth and in the shade, appearing quite nondescript ….

Orange Satyre Satyrium coriifolium (Ewwa-trewwa), Welbedacht Nature Reserve

Get closer – on your knees if necessary – and the flower reveals its special beauty

Orange Satyre Satyrium coriifolium (Ewwa-trewwa), Welbedacht Nature Reserve
Welbedacht Nature Reserve near Tulbagh

We took a late afternoon drive to see what else the nature reserve had to offer and explored the tarred road beyond the reserve turn off to the foothills of the mountains. Fruit trees – dormant and pruned skeletons at this time of year – cover every available piece of arable land and seem to be managed by a couple of large estates.

And off we go on our drive….
Lichens on a rock, Welbedacht Nature Reserve near Tulbagh
Apricot Tulp Moraea ochroleuca , Welbedacht Nature Reserve near Tulbagh

Birding highlights

  • Klaas’s Cuckoo calling in the morning
  • Cape Batis briefly in the trees in front of the stoep
Cape Batis Batis capensis (Kaapse bosbontrokkie)
  • Brimstone Canary visited during the day
Brimstone Canary Crithagra sulphurata (Dikbekkanarie), Welbedacht Nature Reserve
  • 34 added to the pentad list during the day, taking the total to 52 species

Atlasing Tales 14 – Roodeplaat Dam Nature Reserve, Pretoria

My posts on the subject of atlasing have covered a variety of trips to areas that are not necessarily considered to be birding spots, which is just one of the reasons why it is such an interesting and addictive pastime – you can literally atlas anywhere, as long as you follow the required protocols.

Having said that, it can be especially rewarding to include a recognised birding spot in an atlasing trip, which is what this version of “Atlasing Tales” is all about, specifically Roodeplaat Dam Nature Reserve which lies just north of Pretoria.

Roodeplaat lies north-east of central Pretoria – the red line indicates the pentad boundary

The nature reserve extends over 200,000 hectares, with the northern section being favoured by anglers and boating enthusiasts, while the southern section is preferred by birders and nature lovers. Habitats include the dam itself, the shoreline – muddy in parts – and the surrounding savannah veld and woodland.

Earlier this year, during a visit to our old home city of Pretoria, I had the opportunity of visiting the nature reserve after a long absence. After the visit I looked back through my journals and realised that my first visits to Roodeplaat had been almost 10 years ago and thought it would be interesting to compare my current experience with that of 10 years ago – so here goes, ready or not….

ROODEPLAAT OCTOBER 2016

I visited this popular birding spot twice over consecutive Saturday mornings in mid-October 2016, recording exactly 100 species in the process. My motivation for choosing this pentad was threefold – 1) not having visited the dam previously;  2) being close to Pretoria;  3) being a safe and controlled environment. In addition there had been reports of a Great White Pelican and a Whimbrel having been seen during the previous week and I hoped to find them.

The atlasing

The pentad includes a section of the Kameelfontein road from the south, which is the road I used to access the reserve, so my first aim was to make a couple of strategic stops, including one at the bridge over the river, which paid off and got the list going with the likes of Brown-hooded and Giant Kingfishers, Thick-billed, Southern Masked- and Village Weavers and Jameson’s Firefinch.

Giant Kingfisher (Megaceryle maxima / Reusevisvanger)

Entering the Reserve for the first time, I was immediately impressed by the neat gate and internal roads, the friendly staff and the overall well-managed feel of the place. In South Africa you do not take this for granted, with so many pressures for state-funds, so it is always pleasing to find nature facilities that are well maintained.

Roodeplaat dam Nature Reserve

From the gate it was a slow drive to the picnic spot near the water, savouring the unspoilt savannah along the way and stopping frequently to ID the species that were calling or were visible. The loud but slightly mournful calls of Rufous-naped Larks, the cheerful notes of White-throated Robin-Chats and the distinctive descending trill of Brown-crowned Tchagras were never far away.

A tree ‘loaded’ with Barn Swallows drew our attention, as did some other non-avian creatures along the way.

Barn Swallows aplenty, Roodeplaat Dam

Lizard
Banded Mongoose
Grasshopper

Chestnut-vented Titbabblers were particularly audible, but it was a hide-and-seek game each time I stopped to try and get a photograph of this energetic species. Fortunately, one friendly bird perched just long enough for a quickie (photo, that is)

Chestnut-vented Titbabbler, Sylvia subcaerulea  Bosveldtjeriktik

A clapping sound drew my attention to the air and only after several minutes of searching was I able to spot a Flappet Lark performing its display flight at altitude – literally just a speck in the air, with its clapping sound surprisingly clear despite the height at which it was performing. Seconds later the lark descended rapidly and disappeared for a moment into the grass, then popped up into a tree for just long enough to snatch a photo before he began the next ascent high into the sky.

Flappet Lark, Mirafra rufocinnamomea  Laeveldklappertjie

 Reaching the picnic spot alongside the dam, I explored the accessible parts of the dam perimeter. A rowing regatta was in progress, providing some distraction and the birds were feeling it too as the specials (Pelican, Whimbrel) were nowhere to be seen. Despite this the bird life was quite plentiful, with African Reed-warbler, Great Crested Grebe, Little Grebe and Whiskered Tern being highlights.

Little Grebe, Tachybaptus ruficollis  Kleindobbertjie

My scope helped to find a Ruff and a Wood Sandpiper on the shoreline, while a Caspian Tern flew past close enough for a reasonable ‘in flight’ photograph.

Wood Sandpiper, Tringa glareola  Bosruiter
Caspian Tern, Hydroprogne caspia  Reusesterretjie

Exploring further, I followed the side road past the offices and all the way to the bird hide on the far side of the dam, before heading back along the same route and to the main gate, adding a number of species in the process.

Blue Waxbill Uraeginthus angolensis Gewone blousysie

Red-billed Quelea (Quelea quelea / Rooibekkwelea) (Male)
Diederik Cuckoo, Chrysococcyx caprius  Diederikkie

A small bird in the air had me excited for a moment or two as I wondered what it could be – it had the appearance of a swift but appeared to be tailless – surely not a Spinetail, which occur in the far north-east of SA? That would be a sensational sighting if it turned out to be one! I managed to get a photo in flight which helped to ID it once I got back home – excitement changed to disappointment as I realised it was a Lesser Striped Swallow which had either lost its tail or not developed one for some reason. Oh well, can’t win them all.

Lesser Striped Swallow (doing its utmost to look like a new species of Spinetail)

ROODEPLAAT MARCH 2026

The Plan and Route

It was our first visit to Pretoria in a long time so I contacted Koos Pauw to check his availability for an atlasing outing – not much persuasion required – and we agreed that Roodeplaat Nature Reserve would suit us perfectly – not too far from Pretoria (22km), no traffic to contend with in the reserve, prime summer habitat and a variety of birds to be expected.

Light rain turned to quite heavy as we headed to Roodeplaat gate, where we sheltered under the entrance portico for our first coffee and rusks of the morning, a ritual that is an inherent part of atlasing for us. First bird of the morning was a Fork-tailed Drongo perched in a tree near the entrance.

Fork-tailed Drongo (Dicrurus adsimilis / Mikstertbyvanger)

Refreshed, we headed to the start of the circular route (Dwarsweg) that heads mostly through tall grassland dotted with large trees, with bush on both sides of the road along stretches.

Regular sightings kept us busy logging the records on our phones using the Birdlasser app, while I was separately logging on my Ipad as well, using the E-Bird app, which is usually too onerous when having to drive as well.

Common species such as Grey Go-away-bird, White-browed Scrub Robin, Southern Masked Weaver and Cape Starling were some of our first records and were encountered several times during the morning.

White-browed Scrub Robin (Erythropygia leucophrys) Gestreepte wipstert

Less common were Black-winged Kite, European Bee-eater, White-winged Widowbird and Streaky-headed Seedeater.

Dwarsweg (‘Cross road’), paved all the way, winds westwards up to a point where a gravel track to the left takes you closer to the water, then heads north and eastwards to connect with the main route to the picnic area, along Kokela street.

Just before the turnoff to the track, a familiar varied, jumbled call drew our attention and we agreed it could only be Marsh Warbler – as it is wont to do, or not do, it stayed concealed.

 The track to the water was heavy with bush and trees both sides and felt as if we were driving in a forest.

Seekoegat

A small parking area near the dam edge was our next stop, but views over the water were limited due to the dense bush and undergrowth, no doubt more than usual after the substantial rains, and the visible birds were limited to White-breasted Cormorants, Common Moorhens, a lone Yellow-billed Duck and a pair of Pied Kingfishers.

Yellow-billed Duck, Anas undulata  Geelbekeend

Back on the main tarred road, both Brown-hooded and Woodlands Kingfishers crossed our path and shortly after we recorded the first of perhaps a dozen individual sightings of Spotted Flycatcher, perched in its typical demure fashion on a shaded branch, surveying the surrounding grass for prey.

Spotted Flycatcher (Muscicapa striata / Europese vlieëvanger)

Rain let up but never stopped completely – apart from wet arms from keeping an elbow on the car window cill, this was not much of a handicap, and birds were active all over the reserve – except, strangely, on the water of the dam itself!

Koos drove very slowly and stopped often for the plentiful birds in the road and verges, or in nearby bush, while I kept an eye mainly on the passenger side. Green-winged Pytilia and Acacia Pied Barbet were pleasing finds, as were Brown-crowned Tchagra and White-throated Robin-chat, birds I have not seen for some time.

White-throated Robin-Chat, Cossypha humeralis  Witkeeljanfrederik

A short stop at the game viewing hide did not add anything and we soon reached the junction with Kokela street, which heads towards the picnic area on the southern shore of the dam.

This is a good spot for birding, with many species that are not easily found elsewhere in the reserve, and we spent quality time walking around, adding desirable species such as Cut-throat Finch, African Paradise Flycatcher and African Hoopoe.

African Hoopoe Upupa africana Hoephoep

The hide which overlooks the dam was not very productive as the reeds obscure much of the view, with no way of scanning the adjacent shoreline for waders, as we used to do.

After our second coffee accompanied by the hard-boiled eggs, a further walkabout produced Kurrichane Thrush, Orange-breasted Bushshrike and Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird to add to the growing card.

Orange-breasted Bushshrike (Chlorophoneus sulfureopectus) Oranjeborslaksman

By now it was approaching the time that Koos wanted to leave as he had some duties to fulfil that afternoon, but there was time for a drive to the other bird hide on one of the distant parts of the dam.

This was a good decision as it produced the bird of the day along the bumpy track on the way back, and both Striated and Squacco Herons were spotted from the hide which overlooks an open small bay of the dam.

Bird of the day was a quartet of Coqui Francolins which Koos spotted in the grass just in front of the car, two adults with two youngsters. They were kind enough to allow a few photos – one even approached the car curiously while I carefully got out on the passenger side and rattled off a number of shots.

Coqui Francolin Peliperdix coqui Swempie

That brought us to the end of our atlasing in the reserve, with just one more stop on Kameelfontein road on the way back to scan the river at the bridge – plenty of Barn Swallows but not much else.

The Atlasing / Ebird statistics

Atlasing Pentad 2535_2820 : 60 species

Ebird Checklist : 71 species

Why the difference?

Well, while compiling our individual pentad lists when atlasing together, Koos and I use a ‘first seen, first recorded’ protocol to avoid duplication of our cards, which means only one of us will record a species seen or heard unless there are “enough for both of us” or the species is seen again later.

The ebird list was only done by me, so records all species seen or heard.

Atlasing? 

Simply put, it is the regular mapping of bird species in a specific area  called a “pentad”. Each pentad has a unique number, based on its geographical position according to a 5 minute x 5 minute grid of co-ordinates of latitude and longitude, which translates into a square of our planet roughly 8 x 8 kms in extent.

As a registered observer / Citizen scientist under the SABAP2 program (SA Bird Atlas Project 2), most of my birding includes recording the species I see or hear, for submission to the project database at the ADU (Animal Demography Unit) based in Cape Town. These tales record some of the more memorable experiences while atlasing.

Small Birds taking BIG Journeys 5: It’s a Ruff Life

To repeat the intro to my previous posts on this subject ….

Many of the migrant waders – or shorebirds as they are also known – display the most Jeckyll and Hyde characteristics of all birds, living two dramatically different lives and spending time in habitats which are far removed from each other, both in distance and in nature.

Separating these two lives are amazing journeys that take these small yet hardy birds halfway across the world – and back again.

In the southern hemisphere we get to know migrant species during the months from October to April, so let’s find out a bit more by delving (again) into the typical annual life cycle of these waders.

This time it’s one of the most common freshwater waders –

Ruff (Kemphaan) Calidris pugnax

The Ruff was named for its projecting coloured ring of feathers around the neck (in breeding plumage, which we do not see in southern Africa). It is also the name given to the projecting starched frill worn around the neck during the Elizabethan era.

The genus Calidris comes from the Greek kalidris applied by Aristotle in 330BC to an unspecified sandpiper

The species name pugnax is from the Latin pugnus, the origin of the word pugnacious, so named for the energetic confrontation between males at their breeding grounds (called leks)

In a similar vein, the Afrikaans name ‘Kemphaan’ comes from the same word in Dutch, which translates literally to “combative rooster”

Identification

Male Ruffs in breeding plumage are hard to miss, as this photo (from Cornell Birds of the World) shows –

Screenshot

The Ruffs we see in southern Africa are in their non-breeding plumage, the males having lost the variably coloured head-tufts and ruff, leaving them quite plain by comparison to the spectacular breeding colours.

The larger size of the Ruff tends to make it a bit easier to identify amongst other shorebirds.

Females greatly outnumber males but are smaller and are called Reeves

Ruff, Marievale

What to look out for –

  • size : 20 to 30cm with thickset appearance
Ruff Philomachus pugnax Kemphaan, Voelvlei near Vleesbaai

  • distinctive scalloped upperparts
Ruff Philomachus pugnax Kemphaan, Voelvlei near Vleesbaai

  • shortish stout bill, slightly decurved
Ruff, Marievale Bird Sanctuary

  • orange legs – which no similar sized wader has
Ruff, Marievale

An uncommon white form can be found – the white extending from the head to the upperparts and breast. I came across such a Ruff during a visit to Marievale Bird Sanctuary, south-east of Johannesburg, some years ago

Ruff (white headed form), Marievale

Worldwide Distribution –

The orange area on the global distribution map (from Cornell Birds of the World) shows where breeding occurs in the Northern Hemisphere while the blue area, mostly in the Southern Hemisphere, is where they go to ‘get away from it all’ and prepare themselves for the next round of raising a family.

Southern African Distribution

The southern African distribution map (from The Firefinch Birding app) shows the species presence across most of the region, absent only from the highlands of Lesotho.

Ruff, Marievale Bird Sanctuary

Life in the North – Siberia’s not so bad!

As with other migrant shorebirds, Ruffs choose to breed in the Arctic and subarctic, from Scandinavia eastwards through Siberia to Chukotskiy Peninsula.

Their preferred breeding habitat is coastal to forest tundra, near small lakes, in marshes and deltas with shallow-water margins.

Their diet is mainly small terrestrial and aquatic insects, caught by pecking or probing while walking in shallow water.

Ruff, Kasane Treatment Works, Botswana

Breeding – no time for headaches

Mating generally occurs at traditional ‘leks’ – arenas where males gather to display their finery and perform ritual attacks on other males – that’s the basics, it actually involves a lot more as described by Cornell Lab of Ornithology’s ‘All About Birds’ which I have ‘borrowed’ from their website :

The nest is usually a shallow scrape on the ground lined with grass, stems and leaves, concealed in marsh plants or meadow grass.

Clutches of eggs (usually 4) are laid and incubated by the female only for about 3 weeks. Fledging some 3 to 4 weeks later, the fledglings are independent soon thereafter, facing the many dangers that young birds are subject to.

Migration – It’s getting too cold, let’s head south

The most easterly populations of Ruff are the longest distance, terrestrial migrants in the world, travelling some 16,000 kms between breeding and non-breeding grounds.

Those heading to southern Africa are thought to set off from Siberia from where they head south via the Black and Caspian Seas before passing along the Rift Valley and spreading out over southern Africa.

Adults arrive in southern Africa by mid August with juveniles following from September through to November/December

Flock of Ruffs, Devon (near Johannesburg)

Life in the South – It’s Holiday time!

Estimates of Ruffs that end up in southern Africa vary between 50 – 200,000, with just 10% of those believed to be males, so vastly outnumbered by females (no comment …!)

Favoured freshwater habitats are those with shallow water, muddy margins and short emergent vegetation, found at muddy estuaries, salt-marshes, pans, dams, vleis and the like.

Ruff (white headed form), Marievale

Males start to lose their breeding plumage before their southward migration so are unlikely to be seen in our parts in that form, but a few early arrivals in the south may have vestiges of breeding plumage visible.

Usually found in small parties and flocks, often in the company of other waders.

Ruffs, Rooiwal Water Treatment Works Gauteng

The males depart from January to February with the females following in April to May, heading north to their breeding grounds where the cycle will start all over again…

References :

Cornell Lab of Ornithology Birds of the World;

Roberts VII Birds of Southern Africa;

Firefinch app,

Collins Bird Guide;

Waders of Southern Africa

Atlasing Tales 13 – Klein Brak Estuary : A Rose amongst the Terns

Bird atlasing outings often produce a surprise or two, which can be anything from a common bird doing something unusual, or crossing paths with an uncommon species – perhaps one regarded as a rarity for the area – but could even be as simple as a species that you have not atlased for some time.

Let’s face it – birders have a myriad ways of making the seemingly ordinary something to get excited about…. which is just one of the reasons that birding is so addictive.

I like to plan an atlasing trip once a week, depending on other commitments (which are variable at our age and usually driven by family demands), and I leave it to a day or two prior to my ‘atlasing day’ to decide where to go and which pentads to atlas.

My choice of pentad for this trip in May last year was inspired by reports during the week leading up to it describing the presence of hundreds of seabirds at Klein Brak River estuary,

The pentad which covers it includes the bulk of Hartenbos, a chunk of Bayview and Voorbaai, all of which fall under Mossel Bay, and is a pentad that produces a good variety of species, both land and sea-based.

The pentad area is indicated by the red rectangle with Klein Brak Estuary in the north-east corner

On the morning, I headed straight from home to the estuary, in busy early morning traffic (Mossel Bay is no longer the quiet village we got to know), with an initial detour to the shallow vleis further up the river where I started recording on the Birdlasser app at around 7.30 am.

Twenty minutes later I had recorded 20 species, mostly common ones but including African Black Swift, Yellow-billed Duck, Three-banded Plover and both Black-headed and Grey Herons.

Pleased with the quick start, I headed to the estuary itself, found a convenient parking spot and walked across the sand, still damp from the recent tides, to where I could see bird activity in the distance.

There were hundreds of seabirds, mostly terns, on the exposed sand banks at the river mouth and wheeling about in the air above.

Terns, Klein Brak River

Moving closer, I could start identifying individual species ….

Terns, Klein Brak River

Cormorants were well represented and easy to identify as there are just two regular species in the area – Cape Cormorant (Trekkormorant) Phalacrocorax capensis and White-breasted Cormorant (Witborsduiker) Phalacrocorax lucidus

Cape and White-breasted Cormorants, Klein Brak River

Another regular at the estuaries and rocky shorelines, and one of my favourite birds, is the African Black Oystercatcher (Swarttobie) Haematopus moquini

African Black Oystercatcher, Klein Brak River

I could make out two species of Terns present – the Greater Crested Tern (Geelbeksterretjie) Thalasseus bergii – by far the most abundant tern in the area, and the Common Tern (Gewone sterretjie) Sterna hirundo, conversely less common but frequently encountered during our summer months from August through to May.

The terns were too distant for reasonable photos, but fortuitously, they started flying up river singly and in small groups, passing not far from where I was standing. The light was very favourable as I had the low sun at my back, perfect for capturing crisp photos.

That was my cue to grab my camera, adjust the settings for birds in flight, track each passing tern in flight and press the shutter button repeatedly, letting the camera’s eye- tracking technology do the rest.

This tactic usually ensures that some of the shots will be successful but does mean wading through hundreds of photos at home and selecting those that are and deleting the majority that aren’t.

This photo of the two tern species flying together was particularly pleasing as it shows the significant differences in size, plumage and bill, between the species.

Greater Crested and Common Terns, Klein Brak River
Greater Crested Tern, Klein Brak River
Greater Crested Tern, Klein Brak River
Common Tern, Klein Brak River
Common Tern, Klein Brak River

Another photo that I was thrilled to capture was this one of a Greater Crested Tern with a fish catch, no doubt on its way to feed its young one.

Greater Crested Tern, Klein Brak River

The terns that had headed up river had settled on exposed sand bars, so I followed their example and walked along the sand until I was closer, then scanned with my binos to see if there were any other species present.

A smaller tern amongst the tens of Greater Crested (Swift) Terns drew my attention, as it seemed sleeker than the similarly sized Common Terns and had a pale pinkish wash over the breast, leading me to wonder if it could be a Roseate Tern.

I managed to get a usable photo which I posted on the local birding group and very quickly had agreement that it was indeed a Roseate Tern (Rooiborssterretjie) Sterna dougallii, which is regarded as a rarity in the Western Cape.

The ‘back of camera’ shot that I posted on the Mossel Bay Birding whatsapp group

I hung around for a while longer, keeping an eye on the Roseate Tern, and was joined by another birder who had reacted to the post. It wasn’t long before a couple more Roseates joined the first one and was followed by yet more until there were a dozen or more gathered on the sand bank.

This was the first sighting of Roseates for the year for the area and was followed in the week thereafter by sightings of multiple Roseates by several birders at the same spot and at The Point.

Roseate Terns, Klein Brak River

In between all this excitement, I continued scanning the estuary for other species to add to my growing atlas card.

All three ‘local’ Kingfishers were present – Pied Kingfisher (Bontvisvanger) Ceryle rudis hovering over the river, Giant Kingfisher (Reusevisvanger) Megaceryle maxima flying about on the far side of the river and Brown-hooded Kingfisher (Bruinkopvisvanger) Halcyon albiventris calling in the distance.

Pied Kingfisher, Klein Brak River
Pied Kingfisher, Klein Brak River

On the opposite bank of the river I could make out two birds – both all white but with very different features. One had the unmistakeable, spatular-shaped bill of an African Spoonbill (Lepelaar) Platalea alba the other was a Little Egret (Kleinwitreier) Egretta garzetta – identified by its black bill and trademark yellow feet.

Little Egret, Klein Brak River

I still had a few other spots in the pentad to visit, so made my way back to the main road and headed to the Hartenbos River estuary which, if you are energetic enough, is a pleasant 3,5 km walk along the beach from Klein Brak estuary in the direction of Mossel Bay (I know that because my daughter and son-in-law recently did exactly that and measured the distance)

I added a number of birds in the process, including Caspian Tern (Reuseserretjie) Hydroprogne caspia and Little Grebe (Kleindobbertjie) Tachybaptus ruficollis at Hartenbos River estuary and African Fish-eagle (Visarend) Haliaeetus vocifer calling to take my pentad total to a satisfying total of 57 species

Job done, rarity found – another great morning of atlasing!

Chobe River and Game Reserve – the Final Visit …. (Part 2)

Just to repeat the intro from Part 1….. briefly –

I made my last visit to Kasane in November 2018 for the final formal handover of the Kasane Airport project in northern Botswana to the Client. I had made many adhoc visits to Chobe Game Reserve during the course of the project and decided to spoil myself with one last “grande finale” photographic safari, expertly run by Pangolin Photo Safaris, both on land and on the river, soaking up the incomparable African game-viewing and bird-watching on offer.

Aerial view of the Chobe River while landing at Kasane

I have written several posts about some of my memorable experiences in Chobe over the years, but never got around to ‘finishing the story’ as it were, so bear with me as I reminisce about my final visit to Kasane.

Part 1 covered the Boat Trip on the river, Part 2 is all about ….

The Game Drive…

It was Friday morning and my mind was spinning with the memories of the boat trip the previous afternoon, but now it was time to do the land-based version – same guests, same driver (nicknamed ‘Killer’ – I never asked why), same guide and photography expert (Janine), different transport – a game drive vehicle kitted with bean bags to support cameras both sides.

Janine collected me at 5am, drove to the Pangolin Lodge, newly built and overlooking the flood plains of Chobe, picked up the other couple and off we went. The early start was a good idea as we were well ahead of the other game drive vehicles, a crucial advantage which paid off in spades – as you will see…

Janine started by suggesting that the small group, being seasoned game drivers, should look for special sightings and photo opportunities only – Killer asked what we would really like to see and as one we answered “Leopard!”

So we bypassed the “ordinary stuff” initially and bumped along the sandy track that follows the southern shore of the Chobe River, its banks wide and dry at this time of year.

Killer suddenly brought the vehicle to a halt, as he did we saw what he had spotted a split second before – a beautiful female Leopard lying on all fours and ignoring us with a slightly disdainful expression

Leopard, Chobe Riverfront game drive

As Janine gave exposure instructions (under expose a tad for the dark background), we all rattled off a number of shots, fearing the leopard would move away.

Leopard, Chobe Riverfront game drive
Leopard, Chobe Riverfront game drive

And that’s what she did, moving behind a bushy tree to her right, where we could just make out the Impala kill which she proceeded to drag a little, then lick and eventually chew with some satisfaction.

Once sated, she left the prey and came back to check us out, sitting upright and staring straight at us, with a look that said ‘now they could make a tasty dessert’ .

Leopard, Chobe Riverfront game drive

A few minutes later she moved away from her kill and from us and we eventually moved on ourselves, fairly trembling from the excitement of such a magnificent sighting.

Anything after that was bound to be tame by comparison, but we pushed on, just enjoying the feel of the bush and its multitude of wildlife, including, as we were soon to discover, one of the most dangerous of all.

A Black-backed Jackal drew our attention and although quite far off, we tried a few shots – it too was looking at us but with none of the charisma of the leopard, more of a ‘nice doggy’ sort.

Black-backed Jackal, Chobe Riverfront game drive

A group of Warthogs approached and some of them got into mock fighting mode, meeting each other head on. This one continued grazing in peace

Warthog, Chobe Riverfront game drive

Chacma Baboons are always a delight to watch, such as this youngster riding like a jockey on Mother’s back

Chacma Baboon, Chobe Riverfront game drive

Moving along the track, which gets inundated in the rainy season, there was a sudden call of ‘Snake!’ and we shouted ‘Stop!’ in unison.

Killer knew better and only came to a halt at a safe distance, knowing the snake to be one of the most dangerous and venomous around and capable of raising itself to two-thirds of its length to strike – not a comfortable thought when you are in an open safari vehicle.

The driver of an open safari vehicle is particularly vulnerable, being at an ideal strike level with a convenient (for the snake) forearm often resting on the open sill of the door….

It was of course a large Black Mamba, most feared of snakes, and it was already raised about 1 metre high and looking mean.

Black Mamba, Chobe Riverfront game drive
Black Mamba, Chobe Riverfront game drive

There was just time for one snatched shot before it lowered to the ground and slid off into the bush, leaving us once again in an elevated state of excitement.

Not long after another reptile crossed our path, this time a non-threatening Water Monitor, looking quite prehistoric

Water Monitor, Chobe Riverfront game drive

By now we had gone well past the usual picnic spot, so Killer stopped at a ‘Stretch point’ where we had coffee and biscuits before heading back along the upper road.

Stretch point on Chobe Riverfront Game Drive

On the way back various wildlife presented some further photo opportunities

Banded Mongoose, Chobe Riverfront game drive

Three young Impala, still in ‘Nursery school’, made for a charming sight with their oversized ears alert to our presence

Impala nursery school, Chobe Riverfront game drive

Puku are not found in South Africa, occurring mostly in the wet grasslands and floodplains of central Africa, so are a particular pleasure to see as they graze, often ankle deep in the water

Puku, Chobe Riverfront game drive
Puku, Chobe Riverfront game drive

The Birds

Birding was secondary to game-chasing on this trip, nevertheless I was able to spot a broad selection of the birds that I have become accustomed to when traversing the Chobe Waterfront

This Hamerkop posed nicely in the early morning light, giving it a handsome golden appearance

Hamerkop, Chobe Riverfront game drive
Red-billed Spurfowl, Chobe Riverfront game drive

Spur-winged Geese are often seen in the distance, but this one gave us close up views as it swam along the river’s edge

Spur-winged Goose, Chobe Riverfront game drive
Spur-winged Goose, Chobe Riverfront game drive

Yellow-billed Kites visit southern Africa in our summer and are widespread across the region, usually seen singly in the air as they cruise not far above the ground. What we encountered was very unique, with upwards of 30 Kites gathered in one small area along the river bank, some just resting, others making short flights and returning to the same spot.

Yellow-billed Kite, Chobe Riverfront game drive
Yellow-billed Kite, Chobe Riverfront game drive
Crested Francolin, (photo taken in Kruger Park)

The African Fish-Eagle occurs all along the river at intervals which allow each one enough territory in which to hunt for their fish prey, which are abundant

African Fish-Eagle, Chobe Riverfront game drive

And then it was the turn of …… BEAUTY

Southern Carmine Bee-eater, Chobe Riverfront game drive

And the …… BEAST

Marabou Stork, Chobe Riverfront game drive
Squacco Heron (photo taken elsewhere)
Kori Bustard, (photo taken in Kruger Park)
Collared Pratincole, Chobe River trip

And that’s the end of this tail … er tale

Time to go ……

 Leaving Chobe Game Reserve after the game drive on my last morning along the familiar sandy, bumpy track, through the Sedudu gate and out on to the tar road back to Kasane, it momentarily struck me that this was possibly the last time I would see this place and an almost tangible sadness washed over me for a few seconds, only to be replaced with the happy thought of all the memories I had gathered over more than 3 years. Maybe one day I’ll return …..

 

Chobe River and Game Reserve – the Final Visit …. (Part 1)

The last major project that I was involved in before finally retiring from Quantity Surveying in 2019, was the Kasane Airport project in northern Botswana. Monthly visits spread over 3 years meant I spent an accumulative 60 days or more in Kasane, which is the gateway to the Chobe Game Reserve, and I used every free moment to spend time exploring this special place and on the Chobe River, soaking up the incomparable African game-viewing and bird-watching on offer.

So where is this leading? Well, I made my last visit to Kasane in November 2018 for the final formal handover of the airport terminal buildings to the Client. During the visit I found time to join a photographic safari, expertly run by Pangolin Photo Safaris, both on land and on the river, which left me with a head full of special memories and a memory card full of treasured images.

Aerial view of the Chobe River while landing at Kasane

I have written several posts about some of my memorable experiences in Chobe over the years, but never got around to ‘finishing the story’ as it were, so bear with me as I reminisce about my final visit to Kasane

The Occasional Birding

Before getting to the organised safaris, I found other opportunities to wander…… and wonder at the birdlife

While trying to check in at my booked accommodation, a Trumpeter Hornbill wailed nearby, sounding like a baby crying – perhaps it already knew my booking had somehow been mysteriously cancelled and there were no rooms available.

Trumpeter Hornbill (Male) (Photo taken inKruger Park)

Undaunted, I headed to Thebe Lodge, which I had frequented before and which lies on the Chobe River. The extensive grounds had previously proved to be a compact yet lively birding destination in their own right, so I was more than happy to find comfortable accommodation for my three-night stay.

I didn’t waste a moment and paid a quick visit to the nearby sewage works ponds (as one does) which produced Ruff and Lesser Grey Shrike amongst others, then followed that with a walk around the lush Thebe Lodge grounds in light rain, which was a relief from the oppressive summer heat.

The Thebe Lodge grounds were alive with birdlife, feasting on the flying ants which were emerging all over. The strident calls of the ‘frontline’ songsters such as White-browed Robin-Chat and Tropical Boubou were backed up by a further layer of quieter calls of Dark-capped Bulbuls, Grey Go-away Birds, Mourning Doves and Water Thick-Knees.

White-browed Robin-Chat (Photo taken in Kruger Park)

In the rapidly fading light I made out Violet-backed Starlings and Fork-tailed Drongos participating in the flying ant frenzy

The next morning, before breakfast and my project commitments, another walk around the lodge grounds produced about 20 species with two Kingfishers prominent – Brown-hooded and Woodland Kingfishers.

Woodland Kingfisher, Kasane

Common Scimitarbill and Green Woodhoopoe were active and at the riverside Broad-billed Rollers were harassing a Woodlands Kingfisher.

There was no shortage of birdlife in the verdant garden bush of the lodge grounds with Terrestrial Brownbul, Southern Brown-throated Weaver and Grey-backed Camaroptera all showing nicely.

Boat Trip

During previous trips I had done a couple of boat outings on the river, fairly basic ones in a small boat but nevertheless exciting and memorable.

However, the Pangolin Photo Safaris trip from 3.30 to 6.30pm in the afternoon was a whole different experience, being transported on a purpose-built aluminium boat with swivel chairs and special camera mounts for each of the 6 or so passengers and an expert photographer guide to show us how.

Our guide, Janine, started by explaining that we would be looking for more than pretty photos and would be exploring various techniques while looking for unusual angles and actions. Canon cameras with telephoto Sigma lenses were provided for the trip as part of the deal for those who had not brought their own camera. I had my Nikon camera but decided to use the Canon along with the others on the boat, which would allow me to follow Janine’s guidance

I struggled with the settings at first, being used to my then Nikon camera, but as we headed out I started getting used to the Canon buttons and dials while Janine gave us running advice on exposures, speeds, etc – a lot to take in and utmost concentration was needed!

Janine’s exposure advice, particularly relevant to bird photography, which I took away with me and have used ever since was –

  • Background darker than subject : reduce exposure; ie dial exposure compensation to negative side. This avoids an over-exposed subject and creates an even darker background for better contrast
  • Background lighter than subject : increase exposure; ie dial exposure compensation to positive side. This avoids an under-exposed subject and although it also increases the exposure of the background this can be adjusted while editing in eg Lightroom.

Janine and Killer (his nickname!) the boatman proved to be an amazing team on the boat, taking us on a route along the river and its side channels, seeking and finding many photo opportunities for the super-keen group of photographers on the boat.

Let’s take a look at what they came up with and how we progressed :

Jacana Magic

The first side channel produced one of those special moments you never forget – an African Jacana with two tiny juveniles with outsized feet, walking about on the surface of the lily covered water. Janine encouraged us to get off the swivel chairs and crouch low in the boat so as to get level with the subject. Beyond cute!

African Jacana, Chobe River Trip
African Jacana, Chobe River Trip
African Jacana, Chobe River Trip

Darters and Cormorants

Stopping near a dead tree in the river which was being used by African Darters and White-breasted Cormorants, Janine talked us through the technique used to blur the subject in flight while retaining focus on This which involved setting the shutter to a very slow speed, waiting for the bird to take off, finger poised on the shutter button, then panning smoothly while locking on to the bird in flight and releasing the shutter.

Darter, Chobe River Trip

This was a lot more difficult than it sounds and my attempts turned out too blurry, as the photo shows. Ideally part of the bird should be in focus, contrasting with the rest of the body which is blurred. But that’s what makes photography an ongoing challenge – there’s always a chance of doing it better next time….

It’s a lot easier taking a conventional perched photo of the birds…

Darter, Chobe River Trip
Reed Cormorant, Chobe River Trip

A Reed Cormorant with a small fish catch then caught our attention as it landed not far from the boat

Reed Cormorant, Chobe River Trip

I was quite pleased with this “landing“ shot of the cormorant, with just a hint of splash from the tail feathers

Reed Cormorant, Chobe River Trip

Pods of Hippos

Approaching a pod of Hippos grazing on the bank, we waited at a distance – Hippos can be very intimidating, even dangerous so are best given enough space. These two kept an eye on us while munching away at the yummy grass.

Hippo, Chobe River Trip

As Killer slowly edged the boat closer, some of the hippos decided to seek the safety of the water – as we had hoped – creating some “splash” to liven up the photo.

Hippo, Chobe River Trip

Further on, Janine guided us through the technique used to create those “High-Key” photos of a hippo almost submerged in the water – achieved by over-exposing by up to 3 steps so that subject and water come out bright and light.

Hippo, Chobe River Trip

Baboons doing their thing

By now we were well up the river and heading to the sloping shoreline where a troop of baboons were active, which promised a few interesting photos of these photogenic animals – they didn’t disappoint and provided plenty of entertainment and kodak moments for the group.

Chacma Baboon, Chobe River Trip

Further experiments with over-exposed portraits produced good results as Janine had forecast, bringing out the orange-brown eye colour as the baboon watched us intently.

Chacma Baboon, Chobe River Trip
Chacma Baboon, Chobe River Trip

More Birds

The boat headed further upstream (towards the west, with Namibia just across the water to the north), past Chobe Game Lodge (think Liz Taylor and Richard Burton) looking for interesting birds. One target was Giant Kingfisher but it didn’t show so we had to be content with the many Pied Kingfishers along the banks.

Pied Kingfisher, Chobe River Trip

Cattle Egrets take on more colour during breeding season and the plumes on the back appear

Cattle Egret, Chobe River Trip
Water Thick-knee, Chobe River Trip

African Fish-Eagles are often prominent along the river, usually perched on a branch with a good view of the water. The juvenile differs markedly from the adult, which has led me to incorrect ID’s on more than one occasion.

African Fish-Eagle (Juvenile), Chobe River Trip
African Fish-Eagle (Juvenile), Chobe River Trip

Oxpeckers are a favourite of mine, especially when perched on their host for the moment

Red-billed Oxpecker, Chobe River Trip

This front-on photo of a White-crowned Lapwing appealed to me – and to Janine who encourages different views of familiar subjects (The heading image is the same photo cropped)

White-crowned Lapwing, Chobe River Trip

Impala with an M

This is the closest you will come to seeing a famous McDonald’s “M” in wild Botswana

Impala, Chobe River Trip
Impala, Chobe River Trip

The end of our trip came all too soon but there was the exciting prospect of going on an early morning game drive through Chobe with the same team – more about that in Part 2

Chobe River Boat Trip

But before that, Chobe River has some of the most glorious sunsets you will find anywhere – best enjoyed with a suitable beverage to hand…

Chobe River Boat Trip

My Photo Pick for 2025

And here it is once again (About time did you say?) – a selection of photos that appealed to me for various reasons, not just the quality of the photo but also for the memory it left with me. I hope you enjoy scrolling through them as much as I have enjoyed taking, editing and selecting them.

I have not included the many birds I photographed during our visit to Australia as they have been included in the posts on that visit, but chose one of my favourites for the Heading photo – a pair of perky Red-backed Fairywrens that entertained me on one of my many walks

The Places

A random selection of the places we visited during the year….

Starting with Australia and the iconic Sydney Opera House

Opera House, Sydney Harbour Cruise

Back home, I never tire of the late afternoon views while walking the golf estate and adjacent nature trails

Mossel Bay Golf Estate

A Powervan, used in the past to check and maintain train tracks, was our transport one Saturday morning, taking us high up into the mountains above George

Powervan trip from George

An early morning atlasing outing took me to Herbertsdale where the low-lying mist added to the beauty of the area

Herbertsdale southwest

Hartenbos beach is a favourite dog-walking spot, especially at low tide

Hartenbos

This was the scene as the Cape Town Stadium gradually filled up for the memorable Andrea Bocelli concert we attended there

Andrea Bocelli Show

A view to the end of the world from the Robinson Pass on the road between Mossel Bay and Oudtshoorn

Robinson Pass

Contrasting colours, a lone tree and several ostriches made for a unique opportunity on a mid-year atlasing trip

Canola field with Ostriches, Albertinia north area

A unplanned visit to the West Coast town of Yzerfontein not far from Cape Town was a fortunate one

Yzerfontein West Coast

The Birds

As before, I have placed them under groupings ‘borrowed’ from Firefinch which is the excellent birding app produced by Faansie Peacock (his real name!) and his team.

Faansie has a way of making birding interesting and fun and the way he categorises bird species in his app is a good example of his practical approach.

Raptors

Seeing a raptor at the roadside is always exciting and a reason to stop and have a better look – most will fly off the moment you stop, so it requires a bit of stealth to keep the car moving slowly while approaching the target and to have the camera at the ready for the moment you come to a standstill – if they do take off there’s always the chance of freezing that moment, capturing the underwing patterns and colours

African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer Visarend (juvenile), Herbertsdale east
Common Buzzard Buteo buteo Bruinjakkalsvoël, Herbertsdale road
Pale Chanting Goshawk, Herbertsdale road

Sleepers

Who else but the owls and nightjars….

Spotted Eagle-Owl Bubo africanus Gevlekte ooruil, Mossel Bay Golf Estate

Perchers

This category covers a variety of birds normally seen perched on a tree or bush or other suitable spot

Rufous-eared Warbler, Paardebont area
African Dusky Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta Donkervlieëvanger (juvenile), Hoekwil forest
Karoo Prinia Prinia maculosa Karoolangstertjie, Mossel Bay Golf Estate
Lesser Swamp Warbler, Old R62 Road near Oudtshoorn

Suckers

The curve-billed nectar-suckers

Greater Double-collared Sunbird, Mossel Bay Golf Estate

Seed-eaters

All have short, strong triangular bills suited to their main diet of seeds.

Streaky-headed Seedeater, Mossel Bay Golf Estate

Favourites

A random mix of familiar birds, often colourful and with well-known calls. Here are three Kingfishers that fall into this grouping….

Brown-hooded Kingfisher, Old R62 Road near Oudtshoorn
Giant Kingfisher, Gouritzmond Coastal
Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis Bontvisvanger, Klein Brak

Flyers

Swifts and swallows – the aerial feeders – also the most challenging to photograph unless they are resting between sorties

Brown-throated Martin Riparia paludicola Afrikaanse oewerswael, Herbertsdale southwest
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Europese swael, Herbertsdale southwest

Plungers

Mainly seabirds that forage over water – and under water

At certain times during the year terns frequent the estuaries west and east of Mossel Bay where they move about in large flocks, usually requiring an energy-sapping walk across soft sands to get into position for photography

Terns, Klein Brak River
Greater Crested Tern heading to the roost with fish catch, Klein Brak River

Runners

Small to medium-sized birds that forage on the ground

Pied Starling, Herbertsdale north beyond mountain
Large-billed Lark, Herbertsdale north beyond mountain
Agulhas Long-billed Lark, Albertinia north area
Chorister Robin-Chat Cossypha dichroa Lawaaimakerjanfrederik, Hoekwil forest
Capped Wheatear Oenanthe pileata Hoëveldskaapwagter, Herbertsdale road

Swimmers

Birds with webbed or lobed toes for swimming

Crowned Cormorant Microcarbo coronatus Kuifkopkormorant, Yzerfontein West Coast

Walkers

And to end off – the group of large birds with long legs that feed and nest on the ground

Blue Crane, Vleesbaai area
Water Thick-Knee, Gouritzmond

Winter Trip to The Baths, Citrusdal

Looking back over the last year …….

Having enjoyed our time in July 2024 at The Baths near Citrusdal immensely, it was an easy decision when Andre and Geraldine (our daughter) invited us to join them again for a 10 day winter holiday visit to this most pleasant and relaxing resort set amongst hills with hot pools fed by a natural spring. Our two eldest granddaughters, both at Stellenbosch University, were ‘part of the deal’, making it extra special.

26th JUNE TO 7th JULY 2025

Getting there

With my webinar presentations (CPD for Quantity Surveyors) behind me on the Wednesday afternoon, we could start our packing and preparation in earnest for a Thursday departure – most of that was left for Thursday morning so I accepted that we wouldn’t be getting away until midday – fortunately our first day’s drive was around 300kms so not too onerous.

The roads were not too busy but light to heavy rain was the order of the day all the way to our overnight stop at Eikehof Farm near Worcester.

Snow on the surrounding mountains said just one thing – we were in for a chilly stay, but fortunately the chalet had a ceramic hearth and I at once set about getting a wood fire going before taking a short walk around the property.

Snow bedecked mountains around Worcester, Cape


Next morning we left at 10am with just 160 kms left to travel to The Baths so we took it super slow, ambling along at 90 or so and stopping twice, to make sure we arrived after check in time of 2pm.

Our first stop was in the charming town of Tulbagh, decided on the spur of the moment as we approached the turn-off. We were curious when we discovered that it happened to be a “Christmas in July” weekend organised by the town, so the place was buzzing with people and parked cars.

Tulbagh, Cape main road

We chose Kole & Deeg restaurant for a coffee and Pasteis de Nata, which were so good we bought 6 more to take away. The drive itself was through beautiful scenic countryside and the traffic quiet until we reached the busy N7, the main road from Cape Town to Namibia.

Our second stop was at Kardoesie Padstal where we had lunch, before reaching Citrusdal and the last stretch of the trip to The Baths.

We had plenty of time to settle in and get our provisions and clothes sorted, leaving time to relax and get used to the feel of the place again.

The Daily rhythm

Our first full day at the resort was a template for the rest of the stay as we settled into a comfortable rhythm with some variations here and there.

A late lie in before making our first tea and coffee of the day accompanied by rusks. Then a visit to the hot pool for a relaxing ‘swim’ – if you can call standing neck deep in hot water and occasionally paddling about slowly ‘having a swim’. Very relaxing and takes away some of the aches and pains of senior life.

Morning tea and a light lunch out on the balcony, while watching the birds going about their own version of life in a resort – seems they have caught onto this relaxing thing as many of them seem quite laid back and accustomed to the presence of people around them.

Mid to late afternoon we head to the chalet ‘Willy’ just over a km away on the other side of the resort for some family time and the evening meal – mostly a braai – along with watching some Wimbledon tennis.

The Birding

Most of my birding was done while ‘stoepsitting’ on the balcony of our apartment which looks over a busy part of the resort where most of the accommodation is found.

Our apartment on the upper floor, with balcony

Each time I went to sit on the balcony a few House Sparrows would arrive, looking for a dropped crumb or other morsel. Okay, so maybe I created a few crumbs with a slice of bread.

House Sparrow, The Baths Citrusdal

The balcony is flanked by trees and bushes on both sides and across the road the mountain dominates the view with a couple of large trees at the base.

Fiscal Flycatchers were next, followed by the regulars such as Cape Bulbul, Southern Masked Weaver

Fiscal Flycatcher, The Baths Citrusdal
Cape Bulbul, The Baths Citrusdal
Southern Masked Weaver, The Baths Citrusdal

The African Flame Tree and Honeysuckle bush were draw-cards for the Cape White Eyes, Southern Double-collared Sunbirds and Streaky-headed Seedeaters.

Cape White-eye, The Baths Citrusdal
Southern Double-collared Sunbird, The Baths Citrusdal
Southern Double-collared Sunbird, The Baths Citrusdal
Streaky-headed Seedeater, The Baths Citrusdal

Southern Boubous and Cape Robin-Chats were a bit more wary and the Familiar Chats kept their distance as well, ever on the lookout for a tiny insect to pounce on from a low branch or rock.

Southern Boubou, The Baths Citrusdal
Cape Robin-Chat, The Baths Citrusdal
Familiar Chat, The Baths Citrusdal

A Laughing Dove got into the act in its own gentle way

Laughing Dove, The Baths Citrusdal

Passing birds added to the mix – an Olive Woodpecker chose the Namaqua Fig Tree to clamber through the branches, gleaning insects from the cracks in the bark and displaying its fine colouring.

Olive Woodpecker, The Baths Citrusdal
Olive Woodpecker, The Baths Citrusdal

An Outing into the Cedarberg

A chance meeting with old friends just before our trip, who recommended a visit to an area of the Cedarberg not too far from the resort, led to us undertaking a day trip to see for ourselves.

The route from The Baths took us initially back to the N7 near Citrusdal, then northwards towards Clanwilliam, taking a turnoff signposted Algeria (not the country!).

From there the road changed to dirt – good in parts, single track and bumpy in others, so the going was slow. Nevertheless, it was an interesting drive through the Cedarberg Wilderness area that we have heard many people talk about but have never experienced ourselves – mostly high mountains with rock and boulder strewn hills and an abundance of Proteas and other fascinating flowers.

After what seemed like a long drive but was just 20 kms we stopped at the Cape Nature offices at Algeria (a small settlement) for permits for the Caves we wanted to visit further on.

Moving on we headed through another pass and down into a long valley which surprisingly had planted vineyards alongside the road – they belonged to Cedarberg Wines which was our next stop to have a look around.

Cedarberg Winery

The wines on offer were mostly at premium prices – I like buying wines from places we visit so chose the more affordable Merlot-Shiraz blend on offer after a brief tasting session.

Having taken more time to get there than planned and being lunchtime, we decided to head to the restaurant that our friend had recommended as part of the visit. The turnoff to Kromrivier, where the restaurant is uniquely located was shortly after the winery and the road there followed a circuitous route across the ridges and into the next valley.

The road became single track in places with little visibility of oncoming vehicles due to sharp bends and scary drop-offs, so I was happy to reach the open valley without meeting any other vehicles.

The restaurant is part of a resort and the design immediately spoke of quality and attention to detail, which was borne out by the meals we ordered and enjoyed – quite amazing to find such a place in this very remote spot which apparently can be cut off for a week at a time by excessive rain. (One of the low water bridges we crossed had water lapping at the edges so would be impassable a day or two later after heavy rain fell over the whole region)

With lunch done it was close to our cutoff time of 3pm to make sure we got back to base before sunset, so we had to skip visiting the caves which had been the original idea – maybe next time! In any case we were all happy to have seen this part of the Cedarberg Wilderness before the forecast wet weather descended over the region the next day.

And just to end off, back at the resort a couple of winter blooming flowers caught my eye

Flowers, The Baths Citrusdal
Flowers, The Baths Citrusdal

Camouflaged!

Nature never fails to leave you with a sense of wonder – that’s probably the reason atlasing appeals to me so much as there is seldom an atlasing outing that doesn’t come up with a surprise or two, often ‘ordinary’ birds behaving in an extraordinary manner, or an out-of-the-ordinary bird popping up unexpectedly.

But atlasing is not what this short post is about – as so often happens while searching for birds, something else altogether caught my attention. Well actually, it was grandson Christopher (visiting from Australia with our son and the rest of his family) who encountered this particular insect and drew my attention to it.

We were taking a walk along the nature trail near our home and had seen or heard a number of the birds that I often encounter including plenty of Cape Sugarbirds, often so numerous during the Protea flowering season that I have come to call that part of the trail “Sugarbird Alley”

Cape Sugarbird Promerops cafer Kaapse Suikervoël

Christopher was up ahead at one point and called us to come and look at what he had found – it was an extremely well camouflaged grasshopper among dry stick and grass litter at the edge of the trail.

Take a careful look at the heading photo and the one below and you will see just how well camouflaged this particular grasshopper is in its carefully chosen environment. To enhance its camouflage it has placed itself partly underneath some of the dry sticks, giving the very convincing appearance of being part of this random scattering of sticks and grass – just wonderful!

In case you cannot find it, I have circled it in green below

When it moved away from the sticks it became a lot more visible.

Common Stick Grasshopper Acrida acuminata Spooksprinkaan

Some later research (aka Googling) suggested that this is a Common Stick Grasshopper (acrida acuminata). I like the Afrikaans name of Spooksprinkaan – literally ‘Ghost Grasshopper’

Normally it would be all but invisible to someone passing by, but it happened to hop out of the way just as Christopher approached, giving away its presence but still requiring sharp eyes to pick it out among the real sticks.

Adventurous Birding, Atlasing and Travel