Category Archives: Holiday Trips

Australia 2025 : Mackay – a Wet Introduction : Part 2

Mackay : The Wettest place we have experienced!

As mentioned in Part 1, we had inadvertently chosen the wettest time of year to visit Mackay, when most of the annual rain falls over the area, but the rain we experienced was way beyond the norm

My walks around the wetlands area close to the house more than satisfied my desire to see and photograph as many new birds as the weather allowed, which Part 1 covered in some detail.

However, Gerda and I were keen to see more of Mackay proper, but without our own transport, outings were limited to shortish ones that could be fitted in between the morning and afternoon school runs that Liesl undertook every day.

One of the local attractions we managed to visit a couple of times was …..

The Botanic Gardens

Our first visit was accompanied by light rain falling, so we headed to the café for tea and cake which we enjoyed out on the deck with broad views over the lagoon.

From our table I could already see that there were various waterbirds present including a Pelican, Moorhens, Swamphens, Cormorants, etc and there was a moment of excitement when a Whistling kite flew overhead, clutching in its beak several twigs obviously bound for a nest under construction somewhere in the tall trees on the opposite bank of the lagoon.

We followed tea with an interesting stroll through the rainforest area – in light rain of course – which had some fascinating, exotic-looking plants and trees, then a longer walk through some of the other garden areas.

Here’s a selection of some of the ‘rainforest’ plants and flowers that are on display

A quiet, lush pathway leading back to the entrance of the gardens

Birds of the Botanic Gardens

A selection of the birds I was able to photograph in the overcast rainy conditions …..

Australian Pelican Pelecanus conspicillatus, Botanic Gardens, Mackay Queensland
White-breasted Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo, Botanic Gardens, Mackay Queensland
Peaceful Dove Geopelia placida, Botanic Gardens, Mackay Queensland
Dusky Moorhen Gallinula tenebrosa, Mackay Queensland

I was particularly thrilled to get photos of an Australasian Figbird feeding on small red berries in the trees near the main entrance, carefully plucking the berries before juggling them into position for easy swallowing

Australasian Figbird Sphecotheres vieilloti, Botanic Gardens, Mackay Queensland

The Beaches

Other exploratory trips between school runs were focused on visiting some of the fine beaches along the eastern coastline of the town.

Lamberts Beach

We drove to Lamberts Beach and stopped at the Island Lookout point where we had views up and down the coast and beach – rugged in places with a few of the islands visible in the distance despite cloud and mist.

A plaque at the lookout point showed the names and positions of the offshore islands

View northwards from the lookout
View southwards from the lookout

Black’s Beach

Towards the end of our stay in Mackay we were thankful to see a bit of sunshine one morning – that was just the inspiration we needed to get out and about, which we did with our youngest grandchild Ellie joining us for the short drive to Black’s Beach north of the house.

We had the picnic area and beach to ourselves after the group that was there left shortly after we arrived.

A play area with swings made it ideal for kids and the table and benches under a canopy roof invited a picnic meal – maybe next time!

However swimming appears to be a risky business judging by the signage – we were aware of the Jellyfish, but not the Crocodiles!

Ellie and I had a walk on the beach which is wide and flat but clearly gets swamped at high tide.

There were signs of the Sand Bubbler Crabs that create patterns with tiny round balls of sand around their burrows in the wet sand

I was fascinated to find out that these small crabs sift the sand through their mouthparts, filter out the nutrients, and discard the remaining cleaned sand as small, processed pellets, which are left in radial patterns around their burrows.  

Ellie and I had a competition to see who could draw the best ‘finger picture’ in the firm sand – I reckon she won this one by a mile!

Ellie’s imaginative jellyfish – not bad for a 4 year old!

Don’s Seabird – yes I know what you are thinking – stick to your photography…

On the way home from the trip to the beaches, we had a wonderful sighting of two Wedge-tailed Eagles in a newly cut caneland next to the main road – walking in the field then flying up and circling low as we watched in awe of these massive raptors.

The Suburbs

On the days when it was too rainy to walk the wetlands, I took shorter walks around the suburb in the vicinity of the house, which paid off with a couple of new birds almost each time I ventured out.

There were also times when the birds came to the small garden of the house, so I tried to keep my camera at the ready for such occasions, leaping up and rushing to the nearest vantage point if I spotted anything unusual.

Birds of the Beaches and the Suburbs

Here are some of the more significant birds I came across …..

Oriental Dollarbird

Heading back from one of our beach visits, Ellie called out “Oupa there’s a bird” and I stopped to have a look. Well what a surprise when I realised it was the unusually named Oriental Dollarbird which I had been hoping to see!

Back at home I checked out the bird books and found it is related by genus to our Broad-billed Roller, which it resembles in many of its main features

Why Dollarbird? Apparently in flight it shows round silver “dollars” at the tips of the underwing area

Oriental Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis, Mackay Queensland

Torresian Crow

I initially took the large black Crow-like birds that I was seeing regularly in Mackay to be Australian Ravens, which was a bird seen many times during our previous visits. But reading some posts on the local birder’s facebook page I picked up that the Torresian Crow was common in the Mackay area – also that the easiest way to separate it from the Ravens was through its call.

So I made a point of listening to their calls when I next saw them and was able to confirm the ID and add another new bird to my growing list.

We came across a group during our visit to Black’s Beach and I was happy to get some images despite the difficulty of photographing a black bird against an overcast but bright background – thank goodness for Lightroom editing software which allows exposure adjustments of the subject and the background separately

Torresian Crow Corvus orru, Mackay Queensland

Pied Butcherbird

During another suburban walk I spotted what looked to me like Butcherbirds – it took a second look to realise this was a different species to the Grey Butcherbird I had seen several times before. It fortunately stayed in place while I struggled to get my camera working properly as I had inadvertently adjusted settings while it was in the plastic bag protecting it from the rain

Pied Butcherbird Cracticus nigrogularis, Mackay Queensland

Torresian Imperial Pigeon

During a visit to the local public swimming pool where Stephan likes to train, I did a few lengths myself, then scouted around the gardens surrounding the pool. A flock of large-ish white and black birds drew my attention flying from one tree to another.

I was fairly certain they were pigeons but had no binos or camera to confirm the species – later research convinced me they were Torresian Imperial Pigeons, which I subsequently spotted a few times in different parts of Mackay.

This is another species that seems to go under a few different names, Pied Imperial-Pigeon being the one that local facebook posts seemed to use and which lead to some doubt on my part at first, but I settled on the name that Birds of the World used.

Torresian Imperial Pigeon Ducula spilorrhoa, Mackay Queensland
Torresian Imperial Pigeon Ducula spilorrhoa, Mackay Queensland

Yellow Honeyeater

Another new species I spotted at the swimming pool for the first time, then saw a few times in other parts of Mackay, was the Yellow Honeyeater. I was eventually able to photograph one during a wetland walk, when it flew across the pathway and settled in a nearby tree.

Yellow Honeyeater Stomiopera flava, Mackay Queensland

Red-tailed Black Cockatoo

This spectacular species became a regular sighting, especially late afternoon when they returned in flocks to their roost while calling loudly

The visit to Black’s Beach provided a good photo opportunity where a small group were working their way through the trees

The red tail, just visible in the image below, is prominent in flight

Red-tailed Black-Cockatoo Calyptorhynchus banksii, Mackay Queensland

Sahul (Olive-backed) Sunbird

The only representative of the Sunbird family in Australia is this striking species which visited the garden a few times.

After a few attempts I was able to get some reasonable photos as a pair moved through the garden

It turned out that this was not a lifer but new to my Australian list – I discovered that I had in fact seen it in two diverse places before in years gone by – Mauritius and Kuala Lumpur

Sahul Sunbird / Garden Sunbird / Olive-backed Sunbird Cinnyris frenatus (female), Mackay Queensland
Sahul Sunbird / Garden Sunbird / Olive-backed Sunbird Cinnyris frenatus (male), Mackay Queensland

Little Friarbird

Heading homewards at the end of another rainy walk through the suburbs, I spotted what I thought was a Helmeted Friarbird, a species I had come across a couple of times partly hidden in sidewalk trees. This one looked a little different and closer inspection of the photos I took confirmed it was a Little Friarbird – another lifer

Little Friarbird Philemon citreogularis, Mackay Queensland

Black-fronted Dotterel

Another unexpected sighting during one of my short suburban walks between rain showers, was a pair of small plovers in the short grass at the end of a cul de sac which adjoined farmland.

As I approached they darted off to some small heaps of soil with shallow pools of water between formed after the rains, which the birds had clearly decided suited them well.

I was keen to get a photo of the Dotterels so the following day after lunch, when the rain held off for a while, I returned to the same spot. Happily, they were still around and I was able to get some shots even though they were quite wary and flew a short distance each time I edged closer.

Black-fronted Dotterel Thinornis melanops, Mackay Queensland

The Dotterel looked very familiar – the reason being it carries the same genus name as our Three-banded Plover and shares many of its features

And just to end off this post, this pair of Magpie-Larks proudly watching over their youngsters kept me interested in their progress from the first day in Mackay to the day of our departure, when this photo was taken and the young ones about to fledge by the looks of it.

What worried me was the precarious and exposed position of the nest on top of a lamp post just outside the house, and in particular whether the mostly mud constructed nest would hold together in the incessant rain. Incredibly it did and I’m sure the youngsters took their first flight shortly after our departure.

Magpie-Lark breeding on top of lamppost, Mackay Queensland

Australia 2025 : Mackay – a Wet Introduction : Part 1

Australia 3.1

This was our third visit in six years to this wonderful country – we had completed our slow, memorable road trip from Sydney to Brisbane, enjoying a few days each at Caves Beach, Nambucca Heads, Gold Coast and Brisbane, where we had boarded a plane again to travel ‘home’ to Mackay and the very pleasant prospect of spending the next three weeks with the family and getting to know the town.

Mackay is a city in the Mackay Region on the eastern or Coral Sea coast of Queensland, Australia. It is located about 970 kilometres north of Brisbane, on the Pioneer River.

Mackay : The Wettest place we have experienced!

We had inadvertently chosen the time of year to visit Mackay, when the area receives its highest rainfall, but the rain we experienced was way beyond the norm

A selection of my journal comments paint the picture …..

“The rain came down in torrents today, keeping us indoors, which allowed me to catch up on some blogging and photo editing. No birding opportunities though.”

Yet another rainy day and not much done. The weather was kind enough to allow me an afternoon walk, this time with camera wrapped in a plastic bag just in case.”

No birds added for two days now, mainly due to the unending rain that kept on during the late afternoon 4 to 6 pm slot when I usually take a walk”

By the time I got home I was thoroughly drenched but still warm as the humid air does not cool down much.”

And still it rains, two weeks after arriving in Mackay!”

And if that is not convincing enough, have a look at some local news reports ….

Fortunately the rain eased during our last week in Mackay and we could at last get out and about to have a look at some of the beaches and the Botanic Gardens.

The (Very Wet!) Wetlands

As soon as the weather allowed, I set out on a slow recce of the neighbourhood in the vicinity of the house and was immensely pleased to find some large ponds with surrounding vegetation within easy walking distance. Even better, the adjoining lands, which seemed to be part of a farm, were partially inundated to form a large wetland area, with numerous birds visible in the shallow water and along the fringes.

I have been using the ebird app to record my birding occasionally and it came in handy in Australia with its worldwide coverage and data.

As per the screenshot below, the app tracks your route while birding – shown by the blue line in the image. I added a green outline just to show the approximate extent of the wetlands adjoining the built up area.

Blue = ebird tracking of my walking route. Green = an indication of the extent of the temporary wetlands

After that first exploratory walk and whenever the weather allowed, I enjoyed late afternoon walks to and around the nearby wetlands which I quickly discovered were a sheer birding delight, with plenty of birds easily visible. Although many of the birds on the expansive wetlands were further away, they were still identifiable for the most part.

Wetlands


One afternoon, I went for a longer walk around the wetlands with rain imminent. It rained lightly at first then came down a lot heavier while I was halfway around. There was no going back, so I pulled on my rain jacket and quickened my pace but had to take off my sandals to get across the newly formed streams pouring across the walking trail at a slight dip.

 

A very wet pathway!

Another afternoon, I took what had become my customary walk, this time without a camera (which usually guarantees that I will have exceptional photographic opportunities) and with e-bird at the ready to do an ebird list.

After an hour of circling the wetland area I had listed 31 species, which compares well with my SA atlasing pace – not something I expected in Australia based on my Victoria birding outings during previous visits. 

The Birding

Birders like nothing better than finding and seeing new birds – or ‘lifers’ as they are known – I am no exception and exploring a new area in a different country is one of the absolute joys of this endlessly fascinating pastime, with the prospect of coming across a lifer or two.

Despite the extreme weather – or perhaps partly because of it – I managed to find a lot more new birds during our stay in Mackay than I had hoped for – here is a selection of those in the wetland areas – Part 2 of this post will include the lifers and others that I found away from the wetlands.

Photography

Heavily overcast conditions and rain meant 1. Light for photography was seldom satisfactory and 2. It just was not worth the risk of damaging my camera out in the rain

So I have relied on two other sources where I was not able to take my own images of birds :

  • Australian Birds eguide app by Michael Morcombe and David Stewart
  • The Complete Guide to Australian Birds by George Adams

Wandering Whistling Duck

Just 5 minutes from the house, approaching the wetlands for the first time, a group of ducks flew up calling in a familiar way that reminded me of our White-faced Ducks. When they settled again, I approached cautiously and was able to ID them, confirming my first instinct.

Wandering Whistling Duck Dendrocygna arcuata, Mackay Queensland

Comb-crested Jacana

One of the highlights of our visit was finding this striking Jacana on my first walk around the ponds, the red comb on its head standing out like a bright red beret. They became a regular feature of my walks, but remained quite skittish, not hanging around for a sharper image.

Comb-crested Jacana Irediparra gallinacea, Mackay Queensland

White-browed Crake

Literally a few metres after the Jacanas, I saw movement among the water lilies and was thrilled to see two small Crakes moving about warily before disappearing into denser vegetation.

White-browed Crake, Mackay Queensland

Pied Stilt

Still on my first walk, while I was scanning the distant wetlands, I quickly picked up a familiar long-legged black and white wader – certainly a Stilt I thought, very similar to its South African cousin but it had a black neck instead of the white of the Black-winged Stilt

Pied Stilt Himantopus leucocephalus, Mackay Queensland

Royal Spoonbill

Not a lifer but pleasing to find was this Royal Spoonbill

Royal Spoonbill Platalea regia, Mackay Queensland

Scaly-breasted Munia

This was the first of two Mania / Mannikin species I came across in small flocks, landing in the rank grass verge of the ponds

I assumed this was a lifer as it carries the name Nutmeg Mannikin in the app, but it turned out to be the same species I saw in Mauritius back in 2017!

Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata, Mackay Queensland

Chestnut-breasted Mannikin (Munia)

The other one was indeed a lifer and quite a striking little bird at that – shown by the illustration below

Magpie Goose

This large goose became a familiar sighting during our stay, including in a flock of 100 or more, descending on the wetlands as I headed home

Magpie Goose Anseranas semipalmata, Mackay Queensland

Brolga

An elegant crane species, my first sighting was of a group of five doing a high fly past over the suburbs. A few better sightings were had in the wetlands as they came in to settle there, but photo opportunities were scarce or non-existent

It became obvious that this is a stand out species in the area, when I stopped to chat with people from the neighbourhood – first question when they noticed my binos was inevitably “have you seen the Brolgas?”

Brolga

Australian Pipit

Spying a dullish bird walking in the short grassy area adjoining the pans, my instinct said ‘this just has to be a Pipit’ and sure enough that’s what it turned out to be

Australasian Pipit

Bar-breasted Honeyeater

Another exciting find – for no good reason other than being something quite different – was a Honeyeater (probably the most numerous species in Australia) moving about among the longer grass and reeds, which I followed anxiously until I had decent views of it

Plumed Whistling Duck

I had mastered the several differences between the two species of Whistling Duck, having seen them on a daily basis

A pair with 7 ducklings made for a lovely sighting but light conditions were just not conducive to getting clear images

Plumed Whistling Duck Dendrocygna eytoni, Mackay Queensland

By contrast brief sunshine made all the difference in this image

Plumed Whistling Duck Dendrocygna eytoni, Mackay Queensland

Black-necked Stork

Way over on the far side of the wetland a single black and white bird drew my attention – another lifer and less common species was walking about in the long grass

Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus, Mackay Queensland

A Couple of Cuties

The next two species are not strictly linked to wetlands habitat but I include them under this section as that is where I had memorable encounters with them and could watch their antics


Golden-headed Cisticola

I had hoped to find at least one Cisticola in Mackay and this energetic bird on a fence wire was a most pleasing find, putting everything into its song while raising its colourful crest.

Golden-headed Cisticola Cisticola exilis, Mackay Queensland

Red-backed Fairy Wrens

My last afternoon walk of our visit felt like a farewell to the birds I had got to know over the last 3 weeks, and many came out in the welcome sunshine for a last sighting and some special photos.

A pair of Fairy-Wrens put on a show which had me chuckling at their antics on a fence wire – clearly some sort of wooing was going on as the male pranced about on the wire and repeatedly leapt over the female to present himself from both sides

Red-backed Fairy-Wren Malurus melanocephalus, Mackay Queensland
Red-backed Fairy-Wren Malurus melanocephalus, Mackay Queensland

A sighting like this is the essence of why birding is such a rewarding pastime – there is never an end to the moments that await you – at the end of a pathway, along a lonely beach, up in the mountains, deep in a forest, or wherever the birding urge takes you. Moments that you recall time and again later, bringing that same smile to your face that broke out when you first observed it.

Australia 2025 : Brisbane – a Brief Glimpse

Australia 3.1

Our third trip to Australia in January and February this year was all about seeing son Stephan and his family for the first time since 2022, while using the opportunity to see more of Australia – a huge country we are getting to know in small instalments.

The ‘instalment’ this time around was based on a suggestion by Stephan that we meet the family in Sydney and do a slow road trip up the east coast to Brisbane, where we would catch a flight to Mackay in Queensland, their new home town. That appealed to us, as it meant spending quality time with the family while our grandkids had school holidays and Stephan was on leave, at the same time seeing a part of Australia that we had not visited before.

We had left Sydney behind and enjoyed two days each at Caves Beach, Nambucca Heads and Gold Coast, now it was time to conclude our road trip with a short visit to Brisbane

Wednesday – Some shopping and a slow trip to Brisbane

After checking out of the Meriton Suites in Gold Coast, we tagged along with the family to the nearby Pacific Fair shopping mall, with no particular goal in mind other than to see what it looked like and while away some time before undertaking the (supposedly) short trip to Brisbane, a mere 75 kms away.

Pacific Fair Mall, Gold Coast Queensland

What we found was a mall much like those in all big cities with the usual mix of shops, some with names we recognised, others not, and walkways full of people of all ages but predominantly young and fashionable.

First stop was at Le Bon Croix restaurant for tea/coffee and something delicious – the choice of croissants and tarts, the latter fresh and brightly coloured, was tempting

Pacific Fair Mall, Gold Coast Queensland

After some deliberation I chose this slightly more conservative one to accompany my coffee

Pacific Fair Mall, Gold Coast Queensland

Then the girls did a round of the shops with the boys in tow, before returning to the car and setting off to Brisbane.

Traffic was painfully slow all the way to the highway and for most of the way to Brisbane, which turned the short journey into a 3 hour affair.

Thank goodness for the technology that provides a map and directions on the console – it’s hard to imagine driving in a foreign country to a city you have never been to before without it.

Nevertheless, driving in constant traffic on roads you have never driven on before is not easy (dare I say especially at our age), so it was not surprising that I missed the turn into the Indigo Hotel Brisbane City and had to find my way around a series of one-way, busy city streets to get back to the hotel, adding to the already somewhat nervy state I was in.  I was mightily relieved once we had offloaded our bags, got them to the room and I had taken the car to the off-site parking a block away.

The family had delayed their trip due to the traffic, so we went in search of a restaurant on our own, ‘following our noses’ along strange streets and ending up a few blocks down George Street at Lennons in the Hyatt Hotel – we enjoyed a good dinner and by the time we got back to the hotel the family had arrived.

Brisbane Queensland

Birds added: None!

Thursday – Brisbane – Gardens and the Museum

We slept a bit later and went for breakfast as late as allowed.

We had decided to visit the Botanical Gardens in the city, so we ubered there and took a slow walk from the drop off point, taking in the lush forest like gardens along the way.

Botanical Gardens, Brisbane Queensland
Botanical Gardens, Brisbane Queensland
Botanical Gardens, Brisbane Queensland

A cafe with a view beckoned for tea…

Botanical Gardens, Brisbane Queensland

Refreshments were accompanied by the presence of Noisy Miners and an Australian White Ibis / Bin Chicken as well as a Water Dragon that dashed between our legs causing a flutter or two.

Noisy Miner, Botanical Gardens, Brisbane Queensland
Eastern Water Dragon, Botanical Gardens, Brisbane Queensland
“Bin Chicken” cleaning up as soon as we stood up to leave

 A nice surprise awaited when we carried on along the pathways, in the form of three Bush Stone-Curlews standing like statues among the trees.

Bush Stone-Curlew, Botanical Gardens, Brisbane Queensland

I had hoped to find this species, which is of the same genus as our Dikkops – Burhinus – so is akin to being a cousin, albeit on a different continent.

Further on we came to the ponds which held a number of Dusky Moorhens.

Brisbane Queensland

At one of the ponds I noticed two birds flying low over the water and snatching something from the surface. On closer inspection of the photos and after comparing my photos with the Birding app, my hopes for another lifer were confirmed – Blue-faced Honeyeater.

Blue-faced Honeyeater, Botanical Gardens, Brisbane Queensland
Blue-faced Honeyeater, Botanical Gardens, Brisbane Queensland

This juvenile Laughing Kookaburra was quite content scratching about in the leaf litter and seemed unconcerned by our presence

Laughing Kookaburra (Juvenile), Botanical Gardens, Brisbane Queensland

The kids were keen to visit the Queensland Museum and with closing time just an hour away we ubered there from the main gate of the gardens. It was a worthwhile trip with outstanding exhibits although we had to rush it a bit.

Brisbane Museum

The digital recreations of prehistoric scenes were particularly impressive

We all found something interesting to see, mine being the displays of Aussie birds and butterflies

Brisbane Queensland
Brisbane Queensland

On the way back we had a glimpse of the river and views of the city from the minibus cab that we called

Brisbane Queensland

No this is not the cab! Just a sleek Aston Martin outside our hotel

Brisbane Queensland

We rounded off the day with a last meal in the hotel restaurant, which was Japanese fusion and our ‘Wagyu Bagas’ were the best burgers we’ve had in a long while.

Tomorrow we travel ‘home’ to Mackay on the last leg of a memorable trip.

Triplist – Birds added

  • Bush Stone-Curlew at the Botanical Gardens
  • Blue-faced Honeyeater at the Botanical Gardens
  • Australian Brushturkey on the lawns where we waited for our Uber

Friday – Brisbane to Mackay

We are looking forward to our stay in Mackay which a first impression suggests is a pleasant town without pretension.

Footnote on modern travel

Oh well, we live and learn…

Australia 2025 : Gold Coast

Australia 3.1

Our third trip to Australia in January and February this year was all about seeing son Stephan and his family for the first time since 2022, while using the opportunity to see more of Australia – a huge country we are getting to know in small instalments.

The ‘instalment’ this time around was based on a suggestion by Stephan that we meet the family in Sydney and do a slow road trip up the east coast to Brisbane, where we would catch a flight to Mackay in Queensland, their new home town. That appealed to us, as it meant spending quality time with the family while our grandkids had school holidays and Stephan was on leave, at the same time seeing a part of Australia that we had not visited before.

We had left Sydney behind and enjoyed two days each at Caves Beach and Nambucca Heads – next stop Gold Coast

Sunday – Nambucca Heads to Gold Coast

Time to head further north today, but not before enjoying a breakfast at Wharf Café which overlooks the estuary. The rain had almost subsided and allowed us to load the cars and leave by checkout time.

Breakfast done, we started on the route to Gold Coast and were soon back on the Pacific highway, this time in sunny conditions which made the drive a lot more comfortable. As in other parts of Australia that we have driven, we passed through long stretches lined with tall trees on both sides, which is always pleasing to the eye.

On the road

We stuck to the highway all the way to Byron Bay where we diverted to drive through the town and stop for refreshments and a look at the beach. Byron Bay is known for its beautiful coastal scenery, its famous surf breaks and for being a spot favoured by celebrities – it struck us as being similar in character to our Garden Route towns such as Plettenberg Bay and Knysna.

Byron Bay Beach NSW

Back on the highway, a notable feature are the ‘bridges to nowhere’ that the road passes under at fairly regular intervals – bridges that seem to end either side of the highway with no visible approach road crossing over.

We saw similar bridges in Canada so I guessed that their purpose was the same ie to provide a safe crossing point for wildlife of all kinds, without having to set foot on the road at all.

The principle behind these structures is the provision of ecological connectivity between the areas occupied by various wildlife on either side of the highway. They are used by everything from marsupials and reptiles to frogs and birds, saving countless wildlife from becoming roadkill.

Passing under one of several “Wildlife crossings” on the Pacific Highway
Gold Coast Queensland
Burleigh Heads Queensland

Being in in a new time zone in Queensland (which does not observe daylight saving in summer), we had lost an hour so had about an hour of daylight left to relax on the deck. Naturally I spent most of that hour scanning the surrounding trees for birdlife and gazing into the sky where a number of what looked like swallows were making the most of the time before sunset.

View from the deck at Burleigh Heads Queensland

Triplist

Birds added:

Good old House Sparrow at one of the stops

Swamp Harrier flying over the road in an area with wetlands bordering the highway

Swamp Harrier (image from Birds of the World)

Pied Currawong in the large trees around the house

Pied Currawong
Strepera graculina, Burleigh Heads Queensland

White-breasted Woodswallow high up above the house

White-breasted Woodswallow (image from Birds of the World)

Monday – Gold Coast : Sea World

Stephan had booked tickets for a visit to Sea World and we set off along a busy route lined with tall apartment buildings and hotels which told a story of a popular place for holidays and plenty of wealth. Our hearts sank when we saw the exceptionally large, full parking area – expected I suppose but still… I dropped Gerda off near the entrance, parked far away and walked back to join the queue at the entrance.

Heading back to the entrance

Inside, the foyer was buzzing with activity and people – after a tea and a snack we walked along paths filled with more people and flanking expansive outdoor pools which we bypassed for the time being – the dolphin show was scheduled to start soon and we didn’t want to miss it.

We made it in good time after a longish walk with throngs of people and found a good spot to sit and enjoy the show – which was very well done and a highlight of the day.

Heading back, we found a table at the main area for a burger lunch, after which we slowly made our way back to the exit, leaving the family to do the rides, while we took in the Shark tank and Manta ray pools on the way back.

Sea World, Gold Coast Queensland
Sea World, Gold Coast Queensland
Sea World, Gold Coast Queensland
Sea World, Gold Coast Queensland

At the house we flopped onto the bed for a recovery snooze followed by some outside time on the deck before the rest of the family returned, exhilarated after doing several of the spectacular rides on offer.

Tuesday – Gold Coast : Surprise Low and a Spectacular High

The Low

Well it had to happen sometime – no proper road trip ever runs smoothly all of the way….

We set about finding alternative accommodation while we packed, which we eventually found in an apartment complex not too far away. Meriton Apartments turned out to be quite smart, upmarket in fact and apart from the cost it was a good move, albeit just for one night. Gerda and I checked in while the rest were having a beach swim, and I popped down to the pool for a refreshing swim.

The High

Soon it was time to set off for the Outback Spectacular evening show at a venue on the way to Brisbane, which was true to its name and made up for the drama and disappointment of the day so far.

Australian Outback Spectacular show, Gold Coast Queensland

The show had it all …… and more as the images hopefully show –

Australian Outback Spectacular show, Gold Coast Queensland

We all enjoyed the show thoroughly, with horses, cattle, a dog and various vehicles adding to the spectacle, all synced with an outstanding projection of images on the back wall and on the floor of the arena and woven around a story of the outback

Australian Outback Spectacular show, Gold Coast Queensland
Australian Outback Spectacular show, Gold Coast Queensland

There didn’t seem to be any way of topping what had been done so far – until a helicopter entered the arena! I mumbled something about ‘Good grief it’s a flipping helicopter!’ or words to that effect, as the helicopter, a real one tethered to a steel beam running below the roof, did a circuit of the arena and helped ‘rustle’ the cattle back to their pens – truly spectacular!

And as if that wasn’t enough, a cloudburst with real water fell across the arena (not the seating area) and was followed by a digitally created waterfall and river flowing through the sandy floor of the arena. We left with embedded memories …… and a complimentary straw hat!

Triplist –

Birds added (before we vacated the house)

Pacific Swift amongst swallows and swifts soaring above the house

Pacific Swift (Image from Birds of the World)

A curious Grey Butcherbird appearing on the deck and popping out into the open to give us the once over

Grey Butcherbird
Cracticus torquatus, Burleigh Heads Queensland

The Gold Coast had proved to be memorable for many reasons – all that remained of our road trip was the short stretch to Brisbane.

Australia 2025 : Nambucca Heads

Australia 3.1

Our third trip to Australia in January and February this year was all about seeing son Stephan and his family for the first time since 2022, while using the opportunity to see more of Australia – a huge country we are getting to know in small instalments.

The ‘instalment’ this time around was based on a suggestion by Stephan that we meet the family in Sydney and do a slow road trip up the east coast to Brisbane, where we would catch a flight to Mackay in Queensland, their new home town. That appealed to us, as it meant spending quality time with the family while our grandkids had school holidays and Stephan was on leave, at the same time seeing a part of Australia that we had not visited before.

We had left Sydney behind and enjoyed two days at Caves Beach – the exotic sounding Nambucca Heads lay enticingly in wait for our next stop

Friday – Caves Beach to Nambucca Heads (In the rain)

Rain accompanied us almost the entire distance of just under 400kms and along with slow roads for the first two hours turned a 4 hour trip into 6, with the added challenge of poor visibility for most of the way. Lunch was burgers at Taree Service stop which was very busy but quick.

We were glad to reach the Cubana Resort at Nambucca Heads safe and sound and were soon settled into our two rooms with ours overlooking lush gardens and a lake.

Cubana Resort, Nambucca Heads New South Wales
Cubana Resort, Nambucca Heads New South Wales

When the rain subsided enough to venture outside, I stood scanning the garden in front of our room for signs of any bird or other life and noticed a bird darting out into the open, picking up something then darting back.

I rushed to get my camera suspecting something special, and when it ventured into the open again, I was able to get a few shots as it scurried between tufts of grass, which were good enough to ID the bird – it was my first Rail photographed! Buff-banded Rail to be exact.

Buff-banded Rail
Gallirallus philippensis,
Nambucca Heads New South Wales

Later we drove to the nearby supermarket for provisions which included a selection of prepared meals for the evening – the fridge and microwave in the room proved to be invaluable and we enjoyed our supper in the room.

Triplist

Birds added:

The weather conditions with regular showers and poor light meant opportunities for bird photography were severely limited – something we were to experience throughout our trip.

Where I did not manage to get a fresh photo, I have ‘borrowed’ some of my images from our previous trips to Australia to illustrate the birds added to the triplist

Our quick lunch stop at Taree Service Stop produced a Magpie-Lark

Magpie-lark

The Buff-banded Rail was a Lifer for me, the first of the trip and made a few appearances on the grass in front of our room, but I had to grab my camera rapidly and be as stealthy as I could as it dashed into the cover of the bushes at the slightest movement

Buff-banded Rail
Gallirallus philippensis,
Nambucca Heads New South Wales

Strangely we had not seen the well-known “Bin Chicken” or Australian White Ibis until we reached Nambucca, where they were plentiful

Australian White Ibis
Theskiornis molucca

Rainbow Lorikeets are for me one of the most iconic birds of Australia so I was happy to see a few high up in the tall Eucalyptus trees that line one boundary of the resort

Rainbow Lorikeet

On the way to the river mouth we spotted a flock of Little Corellas

Little Corella
Cacatua sanguinea

Other stuff –

On my walk around the lake I came across several Eastern Water Dragons near the water’s edge, sitting dead still on a handy rock, then scurrying off when I got too close for its comfort

Eastern Water Dragon
Intellagama leseurii,
Nambucca Heads New South Wales – semi-aquatic agamid species

Saturday – Nambucca Heads (Mostly in the rain!)

The weather forecast showed another day of rain, light at times, heavy at other times and that is how it panned out. That meant staying indoors then venturing outside when rain held up for a while, for short spells of walking about and birding.

After the continental style breakfast, we chilled for most of the morning with Stephan and the kids enjoying ‘boat races’ with leaves and sticks in the fast-flowing water channels next to the road in between rain squalls. Some simple pleasures never age – as kids growing up in Cape Town it was a particular delight to go out in the rain and ‘race’ our matchsticks in the kerb channel to the nearest stormwater gulley.

I managed a couple of short walks around the lush gardens before the rainy conditions chased me back to the shelter of the verandah of our room.

The flowers in the garden of the resort were tropical in nature
Lichen cover tree – looks similar to what we would call ‘Old man’s beard’
Scarlet Percher Dragonfly (I think),
Nambucca Heads New South Wales

After lunch we drove to the river mouth and parked where we could view the beach and stormy seas, whipped up by high winds.

Beach, Nambucca Heads New South Wales

The rain let up long enough for me to get some images of the beach and the unusual painted “Art rocks” lining the pathway.

Art rocks, Nambucca Heads New South Wales

I also tried a few in flight photos of passing terns with some success, before another squall chased me back to the shelter of the car.

Later we returned to the estuary for a pizza dinner at a busy Mathildas Restaurant – we could only get seating outside so were glad that the rain held off

Triplist –

Birds added

Another iconic Aussie bird, the Laughing Kookaburra, attracted my attention with its calling in the tall eucalyptus trees

Laughing Kookaburra
Dacelo novaeguineae,
Nambucca Heads New South Wales

On the way to the main beach I spotted a Pied Oystercatcher on a grassy sandbank in the estuary – another Lifer!

Pied Oystercatcher
Haematopus longirostris,
Nambucca Heads New South Wales

Greater Crested/ Swift Tern and Common Tern hunting and diving at the estuary – distant birds in flight + poor light = somewhat fuzzy images – what birders like to call a “Record Shot”.

Both of these Terns are seen regularly in Mossel Bay, but the Common Tern was a new addition to my Australia list

Common Tern
Sterna hirundo,
Nambucca Heads New South Wales
Swift (Greater Crested) Tern
Thalasseus bergii,
Nambucca Heads New South Wales

I spotted the second species of Oystercatcher for the day – Sooty Oystercatcher – at the estuary

Sooty Oystercatcher
Haematopus fuliginosus

A few Australian Pelicans were hanging out on a distant sandbar – identifiable but too distant for a photo of any description

Australian Pelican
Pelecanus conspicillatus

Expanding my walk beyond the boundary of the resort, I spotted a Sacred kingfisher among the trees bordering the walking track – my second lifer of the trip – just a pity it it flew off as I lifted my camera, not to be seen again. I have no previous photos of this handsome bird so include this illustration from The Complete Guide to Australian Birds by George Adams

img_7428-1

Tomorrow we head to the Gold Coast in Queensland

Australia 2025 : Caves Beach

Australia 3.1

Our third trip to Australia in January and February this year was all about seeing son Stephan and his family for the first time since 2022, while using the opportunity to see more of Australia – a huge country we are getting to know in small instalments.

The ‘instalment’ this time around was based on a suggestion by Stephan that we meet the family in Sydney and do a slow road trip up the east coast to Brisbane, where we would catch a flight to Mackay in Queensland, their new home town. That appealed to us, as it meant spending quality time with the family while our grandkids had school holidays and Stephan was on leave, at the same time seeing a part of Australia that we had not visited before.

With Sydney ‘done and dusted’ the road trip could begin…

Wednesday – Sydney to Caves Beach

The first leg of the road trip was a short one – about 140km – so we stretched our stay at the Sydney Park Royal right up to checkout time of 11am. That gave us time for another substantial breakfast of fruit with yoghurt, egg and bacon with trimmings and an apple danish with coffee – back home it’s corn flakes or porridge so hotel breakfasts are a treat, and we like to make the most of them to see us through the day.

After packing up we checked out, retrieved our rental car from the valet parking service and with the destination address loaded onto google maps we set off through Sydney following the map’s “blue line” until we reached the Pacific Highway which wound through suburbia (looking uncannily like parts of Joburg) onto the Pacific Motorway. From there it was an easy drive to the turnoff to Swansea and Caves Beach.

We were too early for checkin at 3pm so looked for a coffee shop – the first one we found was closing at 2.30pm and as it was 45 minutes to go, we thought that would give us plenty of time for a coffee and slice of something nice. But that’s not how the young lady at the door saw it and insisted that we would have to do take aways if we wanted coffee and cake as they were closing! We have experienced this before, but it is still a mystery why businesses in Aussieland are often so inflexible and bound by strange rules.

Somewhat aggravated, we googled and found a bakery a few minutes away – it turned out to be a place that did not invite a sit down, but the takeaway quiches and other goodies proved to be excellent.

Next stop was the house Stephan had rented at Clipper Close, Caves Beach – we had the lower floor of a large double storey home and settled in quickly.

After chilling for a good while we set off for a walk, heading through the garden gate and down to the beach, which stretched for kms to the north and south.

Caves Beach New South Wales

In the distance we could see a rocky headland and what appeared to be the caves after which the town is named, so set out southwards in that direction.

There were interesting things for the kids and us to explore along the beach – rock pools with small fish, tiny crabs, bluebottles and gulls aplenty.

Caves Beach New South Wales
Caves Beach New South Wales
Caves Beach New South Wales
Minute crab – no more than 1cm long, Caves Beach New South Wales
Bluebottle, Caves Beach New South Wales

Approaching the main swimming beach we could now see the caves formed in the rocky headland and spent some time exploring them.

Caves Beach New South Wales
Inside a cave, looking out
Exploring a cave

The wind was blowing strongly as we walked back, peppering our lower legs with beach sand and by the time we got back to the house our faces and arms felt sticky from the fine sea spray in the air.

Triplist

My triplist was gaining momentum with numbers of birds seen on the way to the beach – on a small pond and in the bushy fringes. Mostly birds that I have seen on previous trips but good to make their acquaintance once again.

Australasian Swamphen
Porphyrio melanotus, Caves Beach New South Wales
Dusky Moorhen
Gallinula tenebrosa, Caves Beach New South Wales
Maned Duck
Chenonetta jubata, Caves Beach New South Wales (taken with Iphone)
Pacific Black Duck
Anas superciliosa, Caves Beach New South Wales

Common everywhere, the Magpie is nevertheless a fascinating bird that makes you wonder ‘who is looking at whom?’

Australian Magpie
Gymnorhina tibicen, Caves Beach New South Wales

And you can’t help loving the Willie Wagtail with its side-to-side waggle of the tail announcing its identity from afar

Willie Wagtail
Rhipidura leucophrys, Caves Beach New South Wales

Birds I did not manage to photograph but new to the triplist :

  • Great Cormorant over the beach
  • A pair of Australian Ravens on the beach
  • Common Myna (urgh)

Thursday – Caves Beach – a Rainy day

Awake at 7am to overcast weather (getting later each morning as our body clock adjusts), we spent the first hour or two sipping coffee/tea and enjoying the freshness of the morning after a few hot muggy days.

Later the rain came down and the wind increased – no one wanted to do anything energetic, so the day passed with plenty of chilling through teatime and lunchtime with an extended snooze in the afternoon. By late afternoon, the rain had subsided, and I ventured out to explore the area between the house and the beach, in the process discovering a small lake concealed by a ring of trees.

Caves Beach New South Wales

A small pathway between the trees led to the water’s edge where several Black Ducks, Moorhens and Coots were paddling about serenely. In the trees a pair of Willie Wagtails were hopping about while Cormorants, Herons and Egrets flew overhead.

Little Black Cormorant
Phalacrocorax sulcirostris, Caves Beach New South Wales

I had left my camera at the house, so headed back to fetch itand persuade Stephan to join me to investigate further. We did a full circuit of the lake and added a few more species to the list.

Triplist –

Around the house – no photos taken due to the rain

  • Nankeen Kestrel flying past
  • Australian King Parrot – ditto
  • New Holland Honeyeater
  • Crested Pigeon
  • Masked Lapwing

At the lake –

Eurasian Coot
Fulica atra, Caves Beach New South Wales
Australasian Grebe
Tachybaptus novaehollandiae, Caves Beach New South Wales
Chestnut Teal
Anas castanea, Caves Beach New South Wales
Little Pied Cormorant
Microcarbo melanoleucos, Caves Beach New South Wales

Other stuff:

We found a few Brown Rabbits near the house – a species introduced from Europe in the 1800’s

Brown Rabbit,
Caves Beach New South Wales

Tomorrow, we continue our road trip up the east coast to Nambucca Heads

Australia 2025 : A Glimpse of Sydney

Australia 3.1

Our third trip to Australia in January and February this year was all about seeing son Stephan and his family of wife Liesl and kids Jocelyn, Christopher and Eleanor (our youngest grandchild at 4 years) for the first time since 2022.

A year ago, they moved from Sale, Victoria to Mackay, a coastal town in north Queensland which, apart from being in a different state, is far removed from Victoria in distance and climate.

It was a far harder decision than before to make a third trip to Australia – advancing years do cause one to consider such a trip carefully as the chances of health issues increase. As it turned out we got through the 5 weeks of our visit without any significant issues, for which we are very thankful.

Getting there

Getting to the first destination is often the hardest part of long-distance travel, and this trip was no different. Total travel time from our home in Mossel Bay to the hotel near the airport in Sydney, where we spent the first night, was around 24 hours which, along with a 9 hour ahead time change left us quite petered out.

The trip itself had the usual queues to endure – at George for check-in, security, boarding and repeated on a much greater scale at Joburg with passport control in addition.

Fortunately, we had a good couple of hours to relax in the lounge before heading to the boarding gate, where there seemed to be more people than could fit on any plane, but this was just a reminder of how many can be squeezed into an Airbus A380 double decker plane.

As we taxi-ed out towards the main runway at OR Tambo, I was fascinated to see a Long-tailed Widowbird doing its low, slow display flight just above the long grass between the runways – or was this an elaborate bon voyage on its part to send us on our way ? Either way it showed that birds are able to carry on their lives despite human endeavours to deter them.

Long-tailed Widow, Mabusa Nature Reserve

The 11-hour flight went smoothly and surprisingly quickly with some short bouts of sleep in between dinner and breakfast (at 3am in our time!) – Premium Economy certainly helps to make it all more comfortable.

We landed in Sydney just after 2pm local time and faced more queues for passport control and customs before finding the shuttle bus to the nearby Holiday Inn Express, which was an excellent choice with its comfortable room, all the basic amenities (in working order) and a reasonable price for it all. After a catch-up snooze we had a light supper in the hotel restaurant and retired to the room for an early night.

Monday – First Taste of Sydney

We had booked a rental car which had to be picked up from a site some distance from the hotel so, after a full breakfast in the busy restaurant, we packed up and got to the pickup area on ground level. I was about to call an Uber when a taxi drew up and offered to take us at the same price as quoted by Uber – the friendly Asian driver was quite persuasive and so we took him up on the offer and were soon at the rentals office, and not long after we were heading to the CBD in our rented Toyota RAV, our transport for the next 11 days.

Google maps directed us efficiently through Sydney’s busy streets to our next destination, the Park Royal Darling Harbour hotel where the friendly valet parking gent met us – it was well before our check in time, so our baggage was stored, and we went off to find a coffee shop nearby.

Hotel, Sydney

The friendly folk at hotel reception (you may notice a recurring theme here – Aussies are such a friendly lot – except when playing cricket against SA) suggested Brew Bros which was a short walk away and we enjoyed a cappuccino and an almond croissant while getting a feel for the busy city passing by.

First coffee, Sydney

Shortly after returning to the hotel, we were able to check in and find our room with a view of the surrounding cityscape. There was time for a rest while waiting for Stephan and family to arrive for our rendezvous, which was around 4pm and, after much greeting and swopping of presents, we all took a slow walk to find a suitable restaurant for a celebratory meal.

The walk took us past attractive buildings, some modern, some older and restored to their former glory.

Impressive architecture, Sydney
Street scene, Sydney
Street scene, Sydney

Also on our route were some handsome historic buildings with beautiful architecture including St Andrew’s Cathedral, the Town Hall and Queen Victoria building.

Town Hall, Sydney
St Andrews Cathedral, Sydney
Town Hall, Sydney

The restaurant was Grounds of the City which had décor to match the vintage of the surrounding buildings and tasty food.

Restaurant, Sydney

The walk back took us past The Galeries Mall, another architectural gem both inside and out

The Galeries Mall, Sydney
The Galeries Mall, Sydney
The Galeries Mall, Sydney

Birds added to my Triplist

No trip is complete without a list of birds seen – being in the centre of the city meant bird species were limited, nevertheless a couple of surprising ones

  • Noisy Miner, the most common bird we would see during the whole road trip from Sydney to Brisbane
Noisy Miner Manorina melanocephala
  • Silver Gull, probably the second most common bird we would see – quite surprising to see them flourishing in the middle of a city such as Sydney and using the skyscraper-lined roads as flyways to and from the harbour area
Silver Gull
  • Rock Dove – like every city, Sydney has its share of this well-known city-dweller

Tuesday – Sydney Harbour by Boat

The day started with a sumptuous breakfast in the hotel restaurant – that set us up for a day of sightseeing around Sydney. We had bought tickets for the Hop-on Hop-off boat tour around Sydney harbour, which proved to be the best way to see a lot in the one full day we had available.

The nearest boarding spot was King Street Wharf at Darling Harbour, which we got to by Uber from the hotel to Lime Street.

King Street Wharf Darling Harbour
King Street Wharf, Sydney Harbour Cruise
King Street Wharf Darling Harbour

From there we walked a short distance along the promenade to the quay to wait for the next boat which arrived shortly afterwards. A trickle of passengers boarded with us and the boat made its way out into the harbour

Sydney Harbour Ferry
Sydney Harbour Cruise

The first stop on the route around the harbour was Circular Quay, which was also our first hop off after enjoying stunning views of the famous landmarks – the Harbour Bridge, which we saw as the ferry rounded the bend and went beneath the bridge, and the Opera House on the opposite side of the harbour.

First view of Harbour Bridge, Sydney Harbour Cruise
First view of the Opera House, Sydney Harbour Cruise

It’s always a “pinch yourself” moment when you see iconic structures such as the Bridge and Opera House in real life for the first time – they seem so familiar from the hundreds of times they have appeared in print, TV and film that you have to remind yourself that this is the real McCoy!

Once off the ferry we walked along the restaurant lined quay to a vantage point for different views of the bridge and Opera House

Sydney Harbour Cruise
Opera House, Sydney Harbour Cruise

We stopped for drinks at one of the dozens of cafes – milkshakes and coffees were ordered and we watched the passing show for a while.

Returning to the boat we rode to its furthest stop at Manly beach, pausing at Taronga Zoo, Shark Island and Watsons Bay.

Manly was hot and humid so we quickly sought a shady spot under trees, then an airconditioned restaurant for a light lunch before heading back to the quay for the 3.30pm boat back to Darling Harbour and an Uber ride to the hotel.

Birds added to my Triplist

  • More Silver Gulls everywhere including on the canvas canopy where we enjoyed drinks at the waterfront – Ellie pointed out the strange leaf shapes moving about above us, which we realised was the underside of the gull’s feet on the translucent canopy.
  • Little Pied Cormorant at Manly
Little Pied Cormorant Microcarbo melanoleucos
  • Welcome Swallows over the beach
Welcome Swallow
Hirundo neoxena
  • Sulphur-crested Cockatoo in a small flock
Sulphur-crested Cockatoo

Tomorrow, we start our road trip up the east coast of Australia to Brisbane

A Cape Winter Break – Part 3 : The Baths, Citrusdal

The Plan

This was a trip with a difference – we had no part in planning it whatsoever! Our daughter Geraldine had suggested earlier in the year that we join them on a winter trip in June/July 2024, which would include –

  • A one night stopover in Matjiesfontein at the historic Lord Milner Hotel
  • A couple of nights on a farm in Sutherland, the star-gazing capital of South Africa
  • A week at The Baths resort near Citrusdal

Always up for some mild adventure, and to experience places we have not seen before – which included two of the three above – we agreed to join them and made the necessary bookings to match those that they had already made – the trip was on!

After our stays in Matjiesfontein and Sutherland, all that remained was to get ourselves to Citrusdal for a week at The Baths …

Sutherland to Citrusdal

Friday 28th June

A long day’s drive from the farm near Sutherland to Citrusdal started with getting everything back into their various cases, crates and bags and packed in the car while we got ourselves ready. All went more or less according to schedule and we left the farm, only to find the warning light coming on for a faulty or under-inflated tire, so I stopped at the first garage to have it checked – fortunately no puncture was found.

Farm stay, Sutherland

The route we followed was the longer, less direct one, avoiding the notorious tire-shredding gravel roads that head west out of Sutherland. That meant we had to return to Matjiesfontein, where we joined up with the N1 and headed west to Touws River, where a roadside cafe enticed us to stop for a roosterkoek (large bun baked over coals with various tasty fillings) lunch.

The route (in dark blue) from Sutherland to Citrusdal

Shortly after Touws River we turned northwards onto the R46 to Ceres, then via Tulbagh, Gouda and Porterville to the N7 which took us through the Piekenierskloof Pass – mostly behind slow-moving trucks – and Citrusdal came into sight as we descended into the valley.

The Baths

Just after turning off the N7, the signpost pointing the way to The Baths appeared and a short drive of 16kms along the narrow tar road took us to the main gate. From there we were directed along a 500m bumpy dirt road (made even bumpier with rough ‘speed humps’ at regular intervals) past camping sites to the reception where we obtained our keys for Apartment 31, our ‘home’ for the next week.

The access road runs through dense bush in places

It turned out to be on the first floor of one of several small buildings with a comfortable living room, balcony in front and a private sitting area at the back, complete with braai and jacuzzi.

The family helped us to get our cases and crates up the steep stairs and we were soon settled in – only for a short while as the family were in a chalet on the extreme edge of the resort, so we had to drive back down the bumpy road to join them for dinner before heading back and calling it a day.

Saturday

We surfaced around 8–ish and made the first round of tea/coffee, which we enjoyed outside on the balcony, surrounded by trees and birdsong as well as the comings and goings of fellow visitors off to swim or just out for a walk.

View from our balcony

That was pretty much the pattern for the day up to lunchtime and beyond and just what we needed after the busy drive yesterday. In fact this became our pattern for the rest of the week

It also meant I could get a pentad (3240_1900) list going with a few of the commoner birds of the spot as well as a couple of scarcer species, including –

  • Cape White-eyes feeding in the trees
Cape White-eye Zosterops capensis Kaapse glasogie, (race capensis), The Baths Citrusdal
  • House Sparrows joining us on the balcony, hoping for dropped crumbs
  • Familiar Chat being – er – familiar with its wing flicks after every flight or even hop
Familiar Chat Cercomela familiaris Gewone spekvreter, The Baths Citrusdal
  • Sunbirds joining the White-eyes in the erythria tree – both Southern Double-collared and Malachite Sunbirds
  • Olive Woodpecker paying a brief visit to the surrounding trees

Lunch was toast (home-made bread from the Lord Milner Hotel, organized by Gerda, persuasive as ever) with smoked chicken slices and tomato – restaurant quality food!

We took a short walk after lunch to scout around the nearby facilities, visiting the rock pools and hot and cold swimming pools which provide most of the enjoyment in the resort.

One of the older buildings – still used for accommodation

After a short rest we drove to the chalet where the family were relaxing, for coffee and later a braai – Woolies sosaties accompanied by potato bake, salad and copper penny carrot salad to end off the day on a high culinary note. Just a pity our national T20 cricket team fell short of their target but oh so close with the margin between a potentially match-winning six and batsman caught being less than a metre of flight of the ball.

Sunday

An unhurried start to the day once again – it’s hard to do it any other way in this super-relaxed place – we took it easy on the balcony and I added to my steadily growing pentad list with a few more species that came and went –

  • African Olive Pigeon made a brief appearance in the trees
African Olive-Pigeon Columba arquatrix Geelbekbosduif, The Baths Citrusdal
  • A bold Fiscal Flycatcher flew in and perched on a branch metres away from the balcony
Fiscal Flycatcher Sigelus silens Fiskaalvlieëvanger, The Baths Citrusdal
  • Streaky-headed Seedeater visited the flame tree nearby

Mid-morning I pottered down the road to the nearby swimming pool, fed by the natural hot spring, where I found to my surprise that I had it to myself for a wonderfully relaxing swim. Actually, it was more like a float around as the warm water is not conducive to high activity.

The Baths, Citrusdal

As luck would have it, while floating on my back in the pool, I spotted a raptor soaring high above near the ridge of the mountain – even without binos I could see it was a Verraux’s Eagle!

Later the family tried out the small pools near the source of the waters, set among the rocks up a steep set of steps – they ended up spending most of the afternoon there

The Baths, Citrusdal
The Baths, Citrusdal

Monday

After breakfast on the balcony, I went to the warm pool but was put off by the number of people already in so left it for later. When I tried again the maintenance was being done, so I went back to the apartment and filled the jacuzzi with water also piped from the hot spring – rather nice and relaxing with a water massage thrown in.

The Baths, Citrusdal

Feeling energetic, we joined the family on an outing to the De Tol Farm Deli on top of the Piekenierskloof Pass on the N7 for a bit of Carmien tea tasting (as one does)

This was something different, with a wide variety of flavoured rooibos teas brewed in cute glass teapots and kept warm with small burners – the interesting combinations kept us busy for a while, with the “Strawberries and Cream” flavoured tea proving to be a favourite.

The deli shop had some interesting items including bags of braaipap which had me chuckling….

On sale in the Farm Deli – translation : left bag – Coarse maize meal, right bag – bloody coarse maize meal!

The trip back was a chance to see what other bird species I could find in the pentad, but the habitat consisting mainly of citrus orchards offered few birds and I added just a couple of species.

Back at the chalet we had coffee and a slice of chocolate cake bought at the farm deli while watching the first day’s play at Wimbledon, before preparing dinner of braai-ed marinated ribs and Gerda’s chicken fillets done in a pan, along with a salad – a winning combination!

In between all this strenuous activity I added to my pentad list with a few birds seen near the chalet –

  • White-throated Canary
  • Karoo Prinia
  • Olive Thrush
Olive Thrush Turdus olivaceus Olyflyster, The Baths Citrusdal

Tuesday

The weather had turned colder so our morning stoepsitting had to be curtailed – after breakfast I meandered down the hill along the road towards the camping sites, on the lookout for birds, which were plentiful in places but without adding any new species to my pentad list

Old tree at The Baths, Citrusdal

After lunch we made our way slowly to Citrusdal for some provisions , followed by a drive around the side streets to get a feel for the town beyond the main street. We came away with a feeling that service delivery was lacking as all the roads were littered with potholes – much like too many of our small towns.

We came across the NG Kerk in another side street – 1960’s era church at a guess with a lovely stone church hall across the street dating from 1917 all set in neat grounds.

On the way back we took it very slow looking for birds and thanks to Gerda spotted a Black-winged Kite to take the pentad list to 38.

Back at the resort we went straight to the chalet for the evening which included more Wimbledon, braai hamburgers and a hilarious game of 30 Seconds.

The Baths, Citrusdal

Wednesday

A rainy day in the kloof!

It rained on and off for most of the day, at times coming down heavily, so we mostly stayed inside. The girls all went for spa treatments and I joined them later for a short swim in the warm pool.

The rain did not deter the birds and I added a few including –

  • Cape Batis
  • White-necked Raven

Thursday

More of the same – late lie in followed by a soothing after-breakfast swim, then chilling on the balcony until the family arrived mid afternoon for waffles in the restaurant. Talk about strenuous!

Later after doing some packing we trundled down the bumpy track once more to spend the last evening braai-ing and wimbledon-ing, the meal being lamb chops, crispy on the outside, wors and braaibroodjies with some salads

Friday

Time to head home!

We were packed and ready by 10am and proceeded along the route which took us back to Citrusdal then southwards and eastwards passing through 10 towns in all, which makes for an interesting trip broken up into ‘manageable’ chunks.

The Baths, Citrusdal

The road from Worcester was the busiest I have ever seen it with long streams of vehicles making it difficult to drive any faster than the slower vehicles on the road. Added to that we encountered three stop-go’s after Swellendam so only reached Mossel Bay around 6pm.

That brought our trip with the family to an end and a memory bank recharged with new experiences and moments.

On the atlasing side my list stood at 41 species in total – a modest total but pleasing for an area that I have never atlased before.

The Water

And finally, some interesting facts and statistics about the waters at The Baths (which only exists because of the natural hot springs of course) – how amazing that the water is forced under the Olifants River and up the other side!

The Baths, Citrusdal

A Cape Winter Break – Part 2 : Sutherland

The Plan (Repeat from Part 1)

This was a trip with a difference – we had no part in planning it whatsoever! Our daughter Geraldine had suggested earlier in the year that we join them on a winter trip in June/July 2024, which would include –

  • A one night stopover in Matjiesfontein at the historic Lord Milner Hotel
  • A couple of nights on a farm in Sutherland, the star-gazing capital of South Africa
  • A week at The Baths resort near Citrusdal

Always up for some mild adventure, and to experience places we have not seen before – which included two of the three above – we agreed to join them and made the necessary bookings to match those that they had already made – the trip was on!

Heading to Sutherland

Wednesday

We left Matjiesfontein at 12.30pm and headed northwards on the  R354 to Sutherland, some 111kms distant, crossing into the Northern Cape Province in the process.

The road was tarred and generally good, while the hilly countryside was a surprise for us as we were expecting much flatter terrain – without good reason, simply based on our experience of the Karoo elsewhere in South Africa.

Close to Sutherland we stopped at a Padkafee which looked promising but didn’t have much to offer, although a friendly and playful Sheepdog caught our attention and enthusiastically chased and retrieved thrown sticks until we eventually tired of the game.

The new playful pal

Before we continued, our resident star-gazer Andre pointed out how clear the sky had become and how blue it was – a sure sign of clean, pollution free atmosphere.

Near Sutherland – now that’s a blue sky!

This is the principal reason why Sutherland has become the chosen location for a bevy of Observatories on a nearby hilltop, and a favoured spot among astronomers worldwide

Klipkraal Farm

Reaching Sutherland soon after, we stopped for coffee, then popped into the small grocery store for a few provisions before heading east to our accommodation on a farm called Klipkraal.

Klipkraal near Sutherland

The farmstead has the charm of a typical Karoo farm – unpretentious, simple yet inviting with a few sheep grazing among the low bushes.

Farm stay, Sutherland
Lamb, Sutherland
Farm stay, Sutherland

After settling in I took my customary walk along the entrance road (in the above photo) to see which birds were around and was able to eke out an initial list of 10 species, including –

  • Shelducks in the fields near the house, flying off when I approached
South African Shelduck Tadorna cana Kopereend (Male), Sutherland
  • Speckled Pigeons (Kransduiwe) true to their Afrikaans name, high up on the ridge of the hills overlooking the farm
  • A Mountain Wheatear in the tall trees
Mountain Wheatear (female)

Dinner was a chicken veg soup (thick and meaty – more like a stew) in the kitchen with a fire going to ward off the cold – not extreme, but cold enough to remind you that Sutherland is the coldest place in SA.

Thursday

We slept snugly with the electric blankets keeping us warm all night – so much so that we only surfaced around 9am for a first coffee and tea to get us going.

Farm stay, Sutherland

Sutherland

After breakfast we joined the family for a trip to town where we meandered along the dusty quiet streets just taking in the atmosphere of this deep Karoo dorp that has become famous for being the centre of astronomy in SA – and for being the coldest place in the country!

A typical street scene in Sutherland
The local Co-op, Sutherland
A handsome Karoo house
And there’s that blue sky again!

SAAO Observatories

After a coffee at the Planetarium in town, we drove back to the farm and Andre and I were soon on our way to the SAAO observatories a little further along the same road for the afternoon tour of the facilities.

SAAO (South African Astronomical Observatory) owns and operates four major telescopes on a hilltop site 1800 metres above sea level, chosen for its year round clear skies, semi-arid setting and absence of light and other pollution.

The tour started with a video and a walk around the visitor centre to learn about the history of the facility and the basic principles of the different types of telescopes, followed by a short drive up the hill to where the observatories are located.

Observatories spread out on the hilltop

The four telescopes, all optical telescopes, run by SAAO are –

  • The 1.0m telescope
  • The 1.9m telescope
  • Lesedi telescope, and the big daddy of them all…
  • The Southern African Large Telescope (SALT)
Lesedi telescope (currently being commissioned) is housed in this building

Besides these four flagship telescopes, the facility houses a number of other telescopes, mostly operated by other organisations and international astronomy institutions

1.0m Telescope

We were taken firstly into the 1.0m observatory to view the telescope known as Elizabeth, funded by the queen and in use since 1964. It originally stood in the Observatory grounds in Cape Town and was upgraded and modernised to operate remotely when SAAO moved it to Sutherland in 1972.

The Elizabeth telescope

SALT (Southern African Large Telescope)

Then it was time to enter the observatory housing the 11.0m SALT telescope – the building is imposing and there was a buzz of anticipation among the group of about twenty visitors on the tour.

Inside, we all climbed a couple of flights of stairs up to the level where a platform allowed a view of the whole interior, which elicited an excited babble from the group and rightly so – the mass of structural elements and the glint of the 11.0m primary mirror array were certainly impressive.

SALT, Sutherland

The heart of the telescope, the 11m wide hexagonal primary mirror array, is made up of 91 individual 1m hexagonal mirrors, housed in a complex movable structure weighing 80 tons.

The largest single optical telescope in the southern hemisphere, SALT can detect the equivalent of a candle flame at the distance of the moon!

SALT is funded by a consortium of international partners from SA, USA, Germany, Poland, India, UK and New Zealand

SALT, Sutherland showing the interior structure and part of the mirror array
SALT, Sutherland – a closer view of the mirror array, comprising 91 hexagonal mirrors

After hearing all the ins and outs of its operation and specs the tour came to an end and we returned to the farm, happy that we had seen the observatories and learnt a bit about their capabilities

The girls had not yet returned from their trip to town, which meant we could not get into the house as they had taken the key. However this turned out in our favour as we spotted a bird party moving through the garden.

In 15 minutes or so we saw –

  • Mountain Wheatears both boldly and drably coloured
  • Long-billed Crombec
  • Namaqua Warbler perching in the tree and singing beautifully
  • Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler pair
  • Cape Bunting

I then took a short drive before sunset adding just White-throated Canary to take my pentad list to 20.

White-throated Canary

The evening was spent around the fire in the kitchen and for a while outside, suitably wrapped up in our warmest clothes, doing some star gazing with Andre informing us about some of the features of the night sky.

Farm stay, Sutherland

Tomorrow we head to Citrusdal and The Baths

A Cape Winter Break – Part 1 : Matjiesfontein

The Plan

This was a trip with a difference – we had no part in planning it whatsoever! Our daughter Geraldine had suggested earlier in the year that we join them on a winter trip in June/July 2024, which would include –

  • A one night stopover in Matjiesfontein at the historic Lord Milner Hotel
  • A couple of nights on a farm in Sutherland, the star-gazing capital of South Africa
  • A week at The Baths resort near Citrusdal

Always up for some mild adventure, and to experience places we have not visited before – which included two of the three above – we agreed to join them and made the necessary bookings to match those that they had already made – the trip was on!

The Trip to Matjiesfontein

Tuesday

The preparation and packing started the day before as usual but it still took us the whole morning to finalise everything and be ready for the trip, in particular the first leg which took us to Matjiesfontein, where we checked into the Lord Milner Hotel around 5.30pm, right on schedule to make it there before sunset.

The route from Mossel Bay was a familiar one as we followed the road through the Robinson Pass to Oudtshoorn, Meiringspoort, Prince Albert and Laingsburg – all places we have visited in the past and pleasing to see again.

Progress was slow initially with a couple of “stop and go’s” between Brandwag and the Robinson Pass, where we stopped in mist to have sandwiches and tea.

Meiringspoort showed signs of the heavy rains of a month or two ago, which must have turned the usually quiet river and the adjoining road into one large torrent of water judging by the sand drifts and debris of bushes and trees all the way along the 20kms of twisting road.

Meiringspoort after a flood event

The picnic spots were all barriered off due to the floods, so there was no chance of stopping as we usually did – we were just happy the road was open after being closed entirely for a few weeks until mid-June

The road to Prince Albert was quiet and as attractive as ever with lovely vistas opening up as we descended into the Kareedouw valley. We passed through Prince Albert and soon reached the junction with the N1 National road where we turned west and travelled to Laingsburg and beyond to our overnight stop at Matjiesfontein.

Kareedouw Pass

Matjiesfontein

Checking in at the Lord Milner Hotel, I realised that our previous stay must have been in 1976 – not because we could remember that far back but what we did recall was that the milk we ordered for our then baby son was sour and he was born in 1976!

Lord Milner Hotel, Matjiesfontein

It all still looks much the same and we even got the same room – the Olive Schreiner cottage – as 48 years ago.

Olive Schreiner Cottage, Matjiesfontein
Olive Schreiner Cottage, Matjiesfontein

The main staircase is eye-catching and the central cast iron column in the dining room is said to be one of only two of its kind, the other being in Buckingham Palace.

Main staircase in Lord Milner Hotel, Matjiesfontein

Dinner was hotel fare in the classic old dining room and having had a light lunch we did all three courses – soup, main and dessert – then headed to the cottage for an early night.

Wednesday

With just a short distance to drive today we slept in and only got to breakfast after 9am, enjoying the time with the family and the extensive fare on offer before checking out.

Before leaving Matjiesfontein we explored the village on foot, strolling along the station platform then past the Red London bus (which is used to take visitors on short tours of the village) and viewing some of the other buildings on the street.

The signal room in the old station, Matjiesfontein – a gem of mechanical engineering from a forgotten age
Matjiesfontein
Matjiesfontein

The small Transport Museum looked intriguing so we popped in after paying a nominal fee. What we found was a motley collection of old cars, some of which are in need of repair and/or TLC, nevertheless interesting for a fan of old cars such as myself (not just a birder after all).

Transport Museum, Matjiesfontein
Transport Museum, Matjiesfontein
Transport Museum, Matjiesfontein

Also in the museum is an old loco with a few coaches

Transport Museum, Matjiesfontein

And the Birding?

Our visit to Matjiesfontein was short, so birding was not uppermost in my mind, yet I managed to record 15 species while walking about the village. Apart from the everyday Doves, Sparrows, Robins I did see White-backed Mousebird, Malachite Sunbird and Red-winged Starlings, while Pied Barbets provided a typical Karoo background sound with their familiar calls.

White-backed Mousebird

Next stop – Sutherland