Tag Archives: Grantown on Spey

A Week in Scotland – the Magnificent Findhorn Valley

Wednesday 26th July 2023

Planning the Day

Still working on Sue, the Grant Arms Hotel’s in house bird guide’s suggestions, I planned to visit the Findhorn River Valley today. Sue had said this was one spot I should not miss and at the end of the day I was inclined to agree.

Waking up just after 6 am I made a quick decision to follow Sue’s other suggestion and see if I could find Black Grouse at nearby Dava Moor, just 15 minutes drive from Grantown so easily do-able before breakfast

Dava Moor

I followed the instructions given and parked at a lay bye then walked a short distance to a farm gate with a view across an expanse of field, with a few sheep wandering about. I spent a patient half hour scanning the field, but there was no sign of the grouse so I returned to the car, but not before taking in the beautiful sight of rows of pink flowers bordering another open field with a dam and hills in the distance

Dava Moor
Yarrow Achillea Dava Moor

At the lay bye where the car was parked, a few birds were active and I spent a while watching their early morning activity and tracking some with my camera. I found the first of many Meadow Pipits that I would see that day

Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis Dava Moor
Coal Tit Periparus ater Dava Moor

Lochindorb

I carried on to the turn-off to Lochindorb a few kms further and followed the single-track road to the loch, passing an unusual sign along the way – one that did not fill me with much confidence …… but I got across safely and encountered some birds and other wildlife before reaching the large open loch.

Lochindorb
Common Gull Larus canus Lochindorb
Mountain Hare Lepus timidus Lochindorb


At the loch the water was bird free, but I had the place to myself apart from a couple of camper vans in the distance and happily soaked up the early morning freshness while having coffee, counting my blessings for the chance to experience such beauty and solitude.

Lochindorb

The day was still young, but I was in danger of missing the fine hotel breakfast, so I headed back without delay and enjoyed fresh fruit, egg and bacon and toast with marmalade then returned briefly to the room to prepare for the rest of the day.

Before venturing out again, I walked down the neat, well maintained main street of Grantown on Spey to a small supermarket to get a cheese wrap for my lunch later on, suspecting that I would be far from any villages or other meal options during the course of my trip today.

Grantown on Spey

A few motorbikes were parked near a coffee shop and I took a fancy to this one’s unusual design – a mechanical work of art

Grantown on Spey

Strathdearn – Findhorn River Valley

Armed with a flask of tea and the cheese wrap I had purchased, I set off to visit Strathdearn (Findhorn Valley), using the hotel’s map and instructions. The route took me through the villages of Dulnain Bridge and Carrbridge then onto the A9 for a few miles before turning off at the sign for Raigbeg and Balvraid (love the names).

I stopped for a while to have a walk across the Findhorn Bridge, which is of a design I have never encountered before – quite stark in appearance and I wondered to myself what, if anything, had ‘inspired’ this particular design.

Findhorn Bridge and River

In contrast to the bridge, the river below was a fine sight, as are all the Scottish rivers I had come across so far – wide, fast flowing and inviting you to dip a glass in and drink straight from it.

Findhorn Bridge and River

Just after the Findhorn Bridge I turned left at the signpost for Garbole and Coignafearn onto a single-track road which I followed for the next 10 miles to the parking area at the end

I was becoming accustomed to the single track roads that seem to be a feature of the Scottish Highlands, but this particular road needed full and intense concentration as there is no warning of oncoming cars where the road bends or rises or drops and it does that continuously.

Single track road again

Fortunately I was one of few cars using the road and only had to take avoiding action or stop completely on a handful of occasions over the 10 miles.

Findhorn River Valley

The road initially wound its way past a few small farms, then the landscape opened up to reveal a scene as striking as I’ve seen anywhere in my travels

Findhorn River Valley

Along the way I made a few stops at interesting looking spots such as this one – I noticed a White Wagtail flying to the river and back and on closer inspection found it was taking food to its youngster on a rock at the water’s edge

Findhorn River Valley
White Wagtail Motacilla alba Findhorn River Valley – adult feeding juvenile

At the same spot a European Goldfinch flew down and perched for a moment on a colourful Thistle, just long enough to capture it on camera

European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis Findhorn River Valley
Farr away in the Findhorn River Valley

It was a memorable experience all round being all but alone in such a stunning environment and I soaked it up by enjoying the sandwich and tea down by the riverside watching the rushing brown waters go by. The only other life of note was a flock of Common Mergansers, which paddled off down the river as I approached

Findhorn River Valley

I don’t usually bother about selfies but this setting just had to be put on record – I balanced my phone on a nearby rock, set the timer and dashed (OK I walked rapidly) to another rock and pretended to have been relaxing there for a while – not sure that I pulled it off but at least I have it on record.

Findhorn River Valley

Shortly after I came to the end of the formal road at a parking area with one other vehicle but no sign of the owner ….. or anyone else in fact.
Once I had parked, I set off down the walking/cycling track which disappeared into the distant hills in a dead straight line.

I couldn’t help wondering whether the world came to an end on the other side of those hills, but never did find out as, after 2kms of strolling along and enjoying the magnificence of the valley, I decided to turn back. Oh, and I actually saw two people on their way back to the other vehicle and we briefly shared our thoughts on this special place

Findhorn River Valley

There was no shortage of interesting things – birds, flowers, butterflies and the ever present pristine river with smaller streams flowing into it from the sides. Meadow Pipits were plentiful before coming across the cousin of a well-known species back home – a European Stonechat.

European Stonechat Saxicola rubicola Findhorn River Valley
Mountain Pansy, Findhorn River Valley
A tributary of the Findhorn River which I crossed over on my walk
Lady’s Glove, Findhorn River Valley

Reluctantly tearing myself away from this memorable spot, I returned along the same road, encountering just one other car in the 10 miles back to the main road, then taking the same route to the hotel in time for dinner

A Week in Scotland – Loch Garten, Insh Marshes and Avielochan

Tuesday 25th July 2023

Planning the Day

My first day in Grantown on Spey started with breakfast of fruit and ‘real’ Scottish porridge – it seemed appropriate to enjoy it without milk and too much sugar. While sipping coffee I thought about the day ahead and how to best spend it – I wasn’t keen to do too much travelling but rather find some good birding spots nearby where I could spend some quality time.

The Grant Arms Hotel where I was booked is renowned for being a “Birder’s hotel” and has an in-house birding guide available each morning after breakfast to provide advice on birding spots and to lead guests on various walks and outings in the area.

I had checked out the planned walk for the morning and tentatively put my name down for it, so straight after breakfast I went to reception where Sue, the birding guide on duty for the day, was sitting and introduced myself.

No one else had booked for the walk but Sue was happy to still go ahead and after giving me some tips about other birding spots we arranged to meet at the Loch Garten parking area at 9.30 am.

Loch Garten Nature Walk

Loch Garten

We duly met at the parking area for Loch Garten, another reserve run by the RSPB and walked slowly down the path towards the water, stopping frequently to look at plants, fungi, trees, even bugs and bees that Sue had lots of info about – this was a true nature ramble not just confined to birds and I enjoyed it thoroughly.

The area around the loch was mostly well developed Scottish Pine forest with a carpet of green comprising several different plant species – too many to take in on a short walk but fascinating to see. Here and there colourful fungi were prominent

Loch Garten
Fungus, Loch Garten

At one point Sue stopped to listen to the various calls which indicated the presence of a small bird party in progress and we spent a while listening for and finding Crested Tit and Greater Spotted Woodpecker as well as Spotted Flycatcher and a Tree Creeper (which I did not get a good view of).

Getting a photo of the Crested Tit was a priority for me but was particularly tricky as it was high up amongst the branches with foliage obscuring it and with a strong backlight behind, added to which the bird was constantly on the move, hardly sitting in one spot for more than a half second or so. Each time I saw it I rattled off a number of shots and hoped for the best…

Crested Tit Lophophanes christatus Loch Garten

Fortunately (thanks Canon R7) just one of the many shots came out reasonably and with that prize in the bag we moved on.

On reaching the loch just a single Goldeneye was visible – a juvenile it seemed, and after following the track along the loch edge for a while we headed back to the carpark, having walked two hours in all.

Common Goldeneye (Juvenile) Bucephala clangula Loch Garten

Sue left to return to Grantown and I headed further down the road to the visitor centre for a brief visit – mainly to get a sandwich for my lunch later but while I was there I took advantage of the viewing windows and scopes provided to look at a distant Osprey on a nest.

Back in the car I looked at potential sites to visit that afternoon and selected Insh Marshes Nature Reserve as it promised a different habitat with other birds, possibly waders.

Along the road to Insh Marshes

Google maps indicated about 30 miles – a doddle on normal roads but as it turned out the route was along narrow, twisty, up and down country roads which made fast driving impossible as you have to take avoiding action every time a vehicle comes in the opposite direction.

Loch Garten to Insh Marshes

Not only are the roads narrow but they are hemmed in on both sides by fences and stone walling right up against the verge so there is very little space to move to the side and in some cases, you have to almost come to a halt and let the other cars go by – not a moment’s relaxation can be afforded.

There seemed to be birds active in the trees and bush lining the road, so I looked for an opportunity to pull off and take a closer look, as well as to take a break from the concentration required driving these roads.

A small parking area next to the road at the start of a forest walk seemed like just the right spot and I spent a pleasant half hour or so scouting around, finding a few birds in the process. I was most excited about a European Blackcap flitting about the top of the low bushes at roadside – this is a bird that occurs in certain parts of Southern Africa but has eluded my efforts to find one, so seeing it here and managing to capture a fleeting image was a highlight of the day.

Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla Loch Garten to Insh Marshes

A Song Thrush was more relaxed and posed nicely on a post for me

Song Thrush Turdus philomelos Loch Garten to Insh Marshes

With a few decent bird images in the bag, some striking wild flowers begged my attention and they soon joined the birds on the SD card

Common Honeysuckle, Loch Garten to Insh Marshes
Foxglove, Loch Garten to Insh Marshes
Foxglove, Loch Garten to Insh Marshes

Time to move on, but I was hardly back on the route to Insh Marshes when I crossed a bridge over the Feshie River – not a major river but one of the prettiest sights of the day, so I had to stop again at a safe spot on the other side of the bridge and walk back for a quick snap

River Feshie, Feshiebridge

Insh Marshes

I reached Insh Marshes and found a spot in the full car park, then took the pathway that others were using and found my way to the hide which was sited at the end of a slippery downhill track.

Insh Marshes
The path to the hide at Insh Marshes
Insh Marshes

The hide overlooks a part of the vast marshes and promised to be a good spot to spend time scanning for birds. In fact, the opposite was true as all I could pick up was a lone Grey Heron partly concealed by long grass – perhaps many others were present but hidden, however there were no calls to indicate this.

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Insh Marshes

Somewhat disappointed, I went back to the car park and beyond to another hide which had a different view but the same lack of birds. Nevertheless it was a fine place to enjoy the sandwich and tea I had brought with me, before heading back to the car park, where I made up for the lack of other photographic subjects by taking advantage of some relaxed Chaffinches and a Robin that took an interest in my doings.

Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs Insh Marshes
European Robin Erithacus rubecula Insh Marshes

I had spent less time than expected at Insh, which meant there was more than enough time to get to Avielochan, the last stop on my itinerary for the day, one which I hoped would be more successful from a birding aspect.

Avielochan

A short drive later I turned off towards Avielochan, a small loch in the middle of an agricultural area, and followed the road past a few houses until I found the hide located some distance from the water’s edge. The hide was erected by and belongs to Grant Arms hotel and is made available to guests

There were many waterfowl swimming on the loch, including several Greylag Geese which I had seen in fields earlier in the day, and Herring Gulls along the shoreline.

European Herring Gull Larus argentatus Avielochan
Greylag Goose Anser anser Avielochan

Most of the birds were on the far side of the loch and difficult to identify without a scope, however I used my camera’s reach to good effect and was able to pin down an ID on most of them.

Common Goldeneye Bucephala clangula Avielochan

Little Grebe and Common Goldeneye were additions to my trip list and then I turned my attention to trying to find the bird featured in a large poster on the hide’s wall – Slovenian (Horned) Grebe. There are just 30 breeding pairs of this bird in the UK, all of which are to be found in the Scottish Highlands, with Avielochan being one of its favoured sites.

Avielochan hide

After some searching with my binos and taking a few photos I was fairly sure I had spotted one – this is what the image looked like at full 800mm zoom and with way too much light coming off the surface of the water

Slavonian Grebe Podiceps auritus Avielochan

The same image after some serious cropping, exposure adjustment and enhancement – the miracle of modern photographic technology allowing me to ID this Slovenian Grebe with certainty

Slavonian Grebe Podiceps auritus Avielochan

By now it was getting close to dinner time and, not wanting to miss the excellent hotel dinner, I made haste back to Grantown and the Grant Arms for a lovely supper of soup, gammon, and a rich tart for pudding.

Sue, the hotel’s birding expert, had given me some good tips for birding spots which I planned to visit the next day …… but first a good night’s rest was what I needed most after another busy day.

A Week in Scotland – Lochs, Ospreys … and the Road North

Monday 24th July 2023

Just a reminder how this trip came about

1. Our granddaughter Maia (aged 16) has a passion for playing the flute and was very keen to attend the summer school run by Flute Scotland near Perth, Scotland. 2. Her parents could not afford the additional time off to chaperone her to Scotland. 3. Gerda ‘volunteered’ me to be chaperone and it was an easy decision, being an opportunity for a brief tour of the Scottish Highlands and some Scottish birding.

Planning the Day

My first full day in Scotland started with coffee in the self-catering Apartment in the village of Birnam – I hadn’t thought to make provision for breakfast and so wished I had brought a rusk or two from home to dunk in the coffee, but that would have to wait. First, I had to get myself ready for the day and plan my route to Grantown-on-Spey – a drive of some 140 kms, so there would be plenty of time to fit in some birding at selected spots along the way.

I consulted the app I had downloaded before the trip to see what birding opportunities I might find along the route – the app “Where to Watch Birds in Scotland” was my primary source of info throughout my trip. The app showed a couple of birding spots nearby and I decided that my first stop would be the Loch of the Lowes Wildlife Reserve – this reserve was located just beyond Dunkeld, the small village across the River Tay from Birnam, where I had spent the night.

Loch of the Lowes

Soon after, I was heading through Dunkeld and looking for the signposts to Loch of the Lowes – the turn off was just a few kms outside Dunkeld and I parked in the designated area and walked a short distance to the Visitor Centre

Road to Loch of the Lowes
Loch of the Lowes

The friendly lady at the front desk gave a quick run-down on the facilities at the Reserve and mentioned the breeding Ospreys that were in the area and usually visible, while I purchased a small coffee and a much-needed large oats and chocolate snack bar.

On one side of the centre a full width window with one-way glass provided a panoramic view of the adjoining lush, wooded area and I settled down on an unoccupied bench to enjoy a belated ‘breakfast’ with a view. A number of feeders had been installed in front of the viewing window, providing an intimate view of the many birds coming and going almost constantly.

Great Tit Parus major, Loch of the Lowes

It was a good opportunity to take some photos of the birds attracted by the feeders – mostly Tits and Chaffinches, but a Great Spotted Woodpecker also appeared.

Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs Loch of the Lowes
Eurasian Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus Loch of the Lowes
Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopus major Loch of the Lowes

Just to liven things up a Red Squirrel came to check out the feeding table specially stocked with nuts and briefly ‘posed’ for me on a nearby branch.

Red Sqirrel Sciurus vulgaris Loch of the Lowes

Moving on to the hides – one double-storey and another single – both afforded a broad view of the loch which was dotted with waterfowl.

View from the hides at Loch of the Lowes

I set about identifying the waterfowl that swam close enough to the hides and was pleasantly surprised to see a variety of species in a relatively short time.

Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula Loch of the Lowes
Great Crested Grebe Podiceps christatus Loch of the Lowes
Common Goldeneye Bucephala clangula Loch of the Lowes
Mallard (male) Anas platyrhyncos Loch of the Lowes

A Reed Bunting working its way busily through the reeds along the shoreline, provided some distraction from the open waters and proved to be a challenging photographic subject, showing for the briefest of moments, just enough to grab a shot or two.

Common Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus Loch of the Lowes

Breeding Ospreys

The lady from the visitor centre spent time with us in one hide, explaining the history of the Ospreys breeding at the site. Curiously, the adults and juveniles migrate separately and according to tracking and ringing records head to West Africa.

Just then, the two juvenile Ospreys from the current brood showed up – one at the nest and the other in a dry tree on the opposite shore, both some distance away so the scopes provided by the centre came in handy.

Osprey (Juvenile) Pandion haliaetus Loch of the Lowes

By now it was lunchtime and with a way to go to Grantown on Spey I moved on along the back roads to Pitlochry where I thought I could get lunch. Well, the town was full of holidaymakers and their cars filled every parking spot I could see, so I carried on and googled the next birding spot – Loch Faskally, just the other side of town.

Loch Faskally

There were no facilities such as a Visitor Centre or bird hides, just a parking area and a board with walking trails marked on a map of the reserve, so I parked and set off on a walk which I thought would take in the best features.

Loch Faskally, Pitlochry

The walk took longer than planned as I found several new birds – Wrens in the bushy areas were particularly numerous as I walked along trails through tall Scottish Pine forest.

Loch Faskally, Pitlochry
Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes Loch Faskally, Pitlochry

The trail skirted the loch itself and I could see a pair of Mute Swans floating gracefully in the middle of the loch – just then a pair of Eurasian Oystercatchers flew in noisily and settled in shallow water on a nearby sandbank.

Loch Faskally, Pitlochry
Mute Swan Cygnus olor Loch Faskally, Pitlochry
Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus Loch Faskally, Pitlochry
Loch Faskally, Pitlochry

The Road to Grantown on Spey

I was tiring a bit and aware of time passing by, so took a shortcut back to the parking area, from where I headed north towards the A9 main route and was soon barrelling along with trucks and cars all doing the same speed.

I was getting hungry having had just the snack bar the whole day, so I took the first turn off that indicated Services. I bought a sandwich and cappuccino and sat and ate at an outside table, accompanied by cheeky Robins begging crumbs and a more demure Song Thrush hoping for a scrap or two

European Robin Erithacus rubecula Lunch stop on A9
Song Thrush Turdus philomelos Lunch stop on A9

Feeling a lot better I carried on towards Grantown along more ‘back roads’ (where I stopped for the photo in the heading to this post) then re-joined the A9 and made haste towards my destination, which I reached by about 5.30 pm, glad to be able to check in, unpack and freshen up. On checking in I was asked what time I would like supper, which was included, and said 7.30 pm.

Grant Arms Hotel, Grantown on Spey

That left me with an hour and a half to scout around Grantown and I ‘followed my nose’ until I saw a sign pointing towards yet another nature reserve and I was soon walking along a gently sloping trail through forest to the banks of the River Spey. There I spent time just taking in the pleasant view of an old bridge, the clear running waters of the river and some colourful flowers along the river’s edge.

River Spey, Grantown on Spey
Bellflower, River Spey

The busy day was rounded off with a superb three course meal in the hotel dining room – soup, a perfect trout dish and a decadent dessert was thoroughly enjoyed after a rather ‘thin’ day of snacking.