My birding / atlasing trips that I undertake once a week, unless other activities or weather conditions get in the way, take me to various parts of the greater Mossel Bay area and beyond.
The scenes I come across in this varied and beautiful part of our country are often striking, especially in the early morning at and just after sunrise during the “golden hour”, but also later on.
Here are a few images taken over the last month or so
The first was on the road beyond Herbertsdale, looking back over the small town which was all but shrouded in early morning mist
A trip ‘over the mountain’ north of Herbertsdale took me to the Gouritz River where I walked along the river bank for a few hundred metres, with not another soul in sight
Another trip took me to the same river but this time some 60 kms south of where the above images were taken, not far from the river mouth and the town that bears the name Gouritsmond (you guessed it – Afrikaans for Gouritz mouth)
On that same trip this lovely flowering Aloe at the roadside caught my eye
Heading further afield, a short trip to Knysna was an opportunity to see a bit of this famous Garden Route town. Our B&B had a view of a part of the estuary that is such an important feature of the town
Looking back from the wooden jetty towards the B&B (double-storey house on the left)
Every July / August the Canola fields are in bloom and provide stunning vistas in many parts of the southern Cape. I was fortunate to capture this scene as the sun peeped over the horizon, lighting up the yellow blossoms of the canola
The most popular posts on my blog to date have been those I wrote about the quirky artwork that adorns the outside walls of random homes in the small village of Friemersheim in the Southern Cape.
For some reason readers have been attracted to these posts in far greater numbers than any of my other 300 plus posts – a tad ironic when you consider the title of my blog is “Mostly Birding”, as this is the one post that has no birds mentioned other than those depicted in the murals!
But I’m not complaining – It’s just the persuasion I need to post some more photos of the artwork that has appeared since those posts.
So let me remind you about Friemersheim with some of the details from the original post …..
Where is Friemersheim?
This small town, described by some as a hamlet, lies a short distance inland of Great Brak River, itself a small town on the coast of the southern Cape, not far from our home town Mossel Bay
The Artwork
Friemersheim was firmly placed on the tourist map during lockdown, when South African artist Fourie Ackermann, who moved to the area in 2015, decided to liven things up with murals painted on the walls of local houses. And did he make a good job of it!
It is an ongoing project it seems, as new murals ‘pop up’ on houses throughout the spread-out town on a regular basis.
During a recent bird atlasing trip to the area around the town I took some ‘time off’ from birding to drive through the town and view the murals that had appeared since my previous posts
Here’s what I found …..
Cottage with it All!
We came across this charmingly “artworked” cottage a couple of kilometres before the town itself- a perfect combination of reality and imagination and incorporating several of Fourie’s trademark features-
The side wall has a zebra in a doorway, a real door and an alcove with a tractor
The front wall has a friendly couple waving forever to passers-by, a real door, and…
a real window decorated with painted shutters, a few balloons, flowers and a black cat just visible through the lace curtain
Cheetah on a Rock with Two Cubs
This house on the main road through the village has just one painting of a cheetah and its cubs perched on a rock
Zooming in, the detail becomes clear…
Leopard in a Tree
Further on along the same road, this small shop serves as the canvas for another of the big cats – this time a Leopard in a tree
Leopard Watching
Still on the Leopard theme, this one has surely spotted prey, judging by the focused stare
Fish Eagle
One wall of another modest house is adorned with this image of an African Fish-Eagle with a fish clutched in its talons
Lion in a House
I particularly enjoy the quirky side of Fourie’s artistic murals, such as this lion glaring at you through a large ‘hole in the wall’ of the abode, with a sunbird perched on a thin stem for good luck
More Cheetahs
My first post on this unique town included the image below of cheetahs with a real dog (disturbingly chained) on the front lawn.
The dog is no longer there (thank goodness) but the adjoining wall has now been decorated with another cheetah scene
This town is a treat to see if you are ever in the area!
Yes, I know it’s the end of January and my last post was early December – what can I say …. life keeps getting in the way. Anyway, here I am in Australia and it’s bucketing down outside so time to get back to my blog.
I started out trying to select a total of 50 images that represent the places we have visited, the birds seen and wildlife encountered over the last 12 months but ended up with a much longer ‘shortlist’ so this time around I thought it best to split my annual Photo Pick into more than one post.
First up is –
The Places
It doesn’t feel as if we did much travelling during the year, perhaps because for the first time in many years we did not leave South Africa. However we made up for that with a number of local SA trips, some to places we visited for the first time, in the process finding out more about our fascinating country, which hardly ever disappoints…
The brief comments tell a bit of the story of each image.
Mossel Bay
Starting at home – as I’ve mentioned before, one of the pleasures of living on a golf estate with adjoining conservation areas is the daily walks I enjoy, along quiet trails that I regularly have to myself or along the bush-lined perimeter of the fairways once the golfers have left.
The varying climate and seasonal changes in the dominant fynbos present different aspects every day – here’s just one view of the sea taken from the nature trail
Mossel Bay – St Blaize Trail
Paarl, Western Cape
A brief visit to Paarl was an opportunity to explore the surrounding areas and visit some of the lesser known wine estates. This view was taken on the well named Sonstraal (Sunbeam) road
Paarl
Eastern Cape
Our visit to the Eastern Cape, described in one of my earlier posts, had several highlights…
Storms River Mouth, Eastern CapeAddo Elephant National Park
Southern Cape
My weekly atlasing efforts during the year took me to many beautiful areas of the Southern Cape in the vicinity of Mossel Bay
North of Herbertsdale, Western CapeLeeokloof north of Groot Brak RiverNorth of Herbertsdale, Western CapeGouritz River at Die Poort, north west of HerbertsdaleEarly morning atlasing near Mossel BayView of Ruiterbos from Robinson PassWaterfall after good rains in the Robinson passFransmanshoekOn the road to Bonniedale
Friemersheim
This village in the southern Cape has been the subject of a few posts in the past and our latest visit had more surprises which I will include in a future post. This charming cottage, decorated with murals in the style of the other buildings in the village, is a foretaste.
Friemersheim
Verlorenkloof, Mpumulanga
We combined a visit to Pretoria with a few days spent at Verlorenkloof courtesy of our good friends the Pauws
Verlorenkloof, Mpumulanga
Sutherland and Citrusdal
The historical town of Matjiesfontein in the Karoo was our first stop on the way to spending a mid-winter week at a hotsprings resort near Citrusdal – we stayed in one of the cottages run by the hotel and dined in the main dining room. It brought back memories of our previous stay here – some 40 years ago!
Lord Milner Hotel at Matjiesfontein
Our next stop was to spend two nights in the Karoo town of Sutherland, famous for recording the coldest winter temperatures in South Africa and for being the site of the South African Large Telescope or SALT for short, which we made a point of visiting
Sutherland, Northern CapeSALT near Sutherland
The week spent at The Baths near Citrusdal was a delight and one of the most relaxing weeks of the whole year
The Baths near Citrusdal, Western CapeView from The Baths over the valley
Prince Albert
My earlier post describes our long weekend in Prince Albert – this delightful Karoo dorp remains a favourite of ours
Kredouw Pass near Prince Albert
Hartenbos
I joined Andre and Geraldine a couple of times on their regular Sunday walks along the beach at Hartenbos
Hartenbos beach at low tide
Cape Visit
In November we spent a memorable week and a half in the Cape as part of a long-planned family reunion with my siblings and some of their children from all over the world.
A patch of colour at Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, Cape TownView of Table Mountain from the rooftop of Silo Hotel at the WaterfrontSunset over Camps BayVergelegen Estate at Somerset West
Back home in Mossel Bay the Cruise season had started – we love seeing these impressive ships in the bay
Cruise ship visiting Mossel Bay
Now if this rain keeps up I may be able to put together the rest of my photo picks for 2024
One of the most popular posts on my blog to date has been the one I wrote about the quirky artwork that adorns the outside walls of random homes in the small village of Friemersheim in the Southern Cape.
For some reason readers have been attracted to this post in far greater numbers – over a 1000 views so far – than any of my other 300 plus posts – a tad ironic when you consider the title of my blog is “Mostly Birding”, as this is the one post that has no birds mentioned other than those depicted in the murals!
But I’m not complaining – It’s just the persuasion I need to post some more photos of the artwork that has appeared since that original post.
So let me remind you about Friemersheim with some of the details from the original post …..
Where is Friemersheim?
This small town, described by some as a hamlet, lies a short distance inland of Great Brak River, itself a small town on the coast of the southern Cape, not far from our home town Mossel Bay
The Artwork
Friemersheim was firmly placed on the tourist map during lockdown, when South African artist Fourie Ackermann, who moved to the area in 2015, decided to liven things up with murals painted on the walls of local houses. And did he make a good job of it!
It is an ongoing project it seems, as new murals ‘pop up’ on houses throughout the spread-out town on a regular basis.
During a recent bird atlasing trip to the area around the town I took some ‘time off’ from birding to drive through the town and view the murals that had appeared over the last year or two
Here’s what I found …..
Note that most of my photos were taken from a vantage point some distance away from the house and fences tend to get in the way, but I don’t think they distract from the enjoyment of these unique artworks
Zebras fighting, dust flying, birds fleeing … and a hidden Wildebeest
The street-facing wall of this rather modest home provides the ‘canvas’ for a dramatic scene of a fight between two Zebras, with dust being kicked up and birds being forced to scatter
The houseThe full muralThe drama of the fightA Cattle Egret takes off – and in the background a Wildebeest looks on (which I only noticed when I downloaded the photos) The barbed wire fence is real
Buffalo with young lad riding on the back
This mural on the side wall of another home is quite fanciful – Buffaloes are known as one of the most dangerous animals and hardly suited to being ridden by a young lad as depicted here. Nevertheless an imaginative mural brilliantly executed
Closer up the Buffalo has a flower in its mouth – clearly a friendly sort ……The young lad seems to be enjoying himself
Elephants performing, an Aloe …. and a balloon
This mural is just as fanciful with elephants acting unnaturally at first glance – one on its hind legs, the other two sitting on a bench. But then I remembered the elephants in the circuses of my youth doing exactly that so perhaps the artist had similar recollections
The addition of a balloon to many of the murals is just another quirky ‘signature’ by the artist
The door with a red curtain is a reminder that the house is real and ‘lived in’The Aloe is painted, the fence and flowers in front are real ….
Fearsome Hippo, Boy and Girl balancing, Gyppo taking off
This mural intrigued me the most – you have to look carefully to spot the actual rainwater drainpipe running in line with the painted dead tree which acts as the bridge for the two youngsters daring to cross over. The pipe is painted the same colour as the ‘bridge’ so blends in masterfully
Now that is a fearsome sight Whatever you do kids, don’t slip!The Egyptian Goose is not hanging around to see what happens
Wildebeest challenging
This mural on the wall of an outside room depicts another species fond of showing their superiority by challenging competitors – the Wildebeest
This town is a treat to see if you are ever in the area!
We decided during December to take a short breakaway trip to the Cape, in particular Stellenbosch, the famous University town and centre of all things wine-related.
The route from Mossel Bay, west to Stellenbosch
Our eldest granddaughter has a small flat close to the university and central Stellenbosch and as she was not due to return there until late January, it was a good opportunity for us to spend a few days there.
The town itself and the wine farms in the area are very busy at this time of year, attracting as they do visitors and tourists from all parts of the country and the world in fact, while the university campus area is exceptionally quiet, with hardly a soul in sight other than the campus security guards on every street corner that make it a safe place to walk about.
And walk about I did, taking in the beautiful architecture and pleasant streets of this delightful part of the town – here’s a selection of the images I collected on the way.
The Streets
In a few weeks time these streets will be busy with students walking, riding and driving between their residences, town and the campus buildings, but now they are dead quiet
This old restored lorry belongs to one of the men’s residences and would probably have a few stories to tell if it could …..
The Architecture
The faculties are housed in handsome buildings such as this one, each with an elegant style of their own.
Some of the old houses are privately owned, others house specialist sections of the university – all have one thing in common : they are beautifully restored and in pristine condition, ranging in style from Victorian to Cape Dutch
Leivore
Some towns in the Western Cape still have leivore – the traditional water furrows used to supply water for irrigation, usually emanating from a spring in the nearby mountains and channeled alongside the streets through the town. Leivore is pronounced ‘lay-foora’
Sluice gates such as this one (missing the upper part) control the flow of water in the leivore and where they branch off to a property
Firstly, I hope to get back to more regular posts – other matters have taken priority the last while and have meant I haven’t been able to spend nearly as much time on blogging as I would like, so hopefully I can change that going into the holiday season.
Secondly this may or may not be the start of a new series of posts – my last one featured a Fynbos sunset and here I go again with a Beach sunset – we’ll just have to see where this goes…..
We decided to take a short break and chose Arniston, a small coastal town about 260 kms from our home in Mossel Bay. We had only been there once before for lunch at the Arniston Hotel and have always wanted to experience the charming spot more thoroughly so booked for three nights in a seafront room.
As usual I went for my late afternoon walks during the stay and was drawn towards the beach right in front of the hotel for a stroll along the sand and a clamber over the low rocks that are exposed by the low tide.
The scenes were stunning, the sand, sea and sky lightly brushed with colour from the sun setting behind my back on the land side.
Once I had a few shots taken of the beach I looked around for interesting patterns and colour combinations amongst the exposed rocks and didn’t have to go far to find these
The harbour slipway had a few fishing boats standing out of the water and this colourful one demanded a photo
Back on the sand I was fascinated by the variety of pebbles large and small, swept into random patterns by the incoming and outgoing tide
Oh, and I met a dog on the beach…..just gazing out to sea
One of the joys of Mossel Bay, our new home town, is the proximity of our house to the broad band of coastal fynbos that separates the estate we live in from the rugged coastline running along this part of the southern Cape.
A short walk of a few minutes takes one into a world of tiny flowers in an expanse of heath-like bushes and although my primary aim is usually to see what birdlife is present, the setting sun this afternoon enticed me to try my hand at some more ‘arty’ photos, using my trusty iphone.
Here are some of the results
On closer inspection of the above photo I noticed that the flower was draped in spider’s web which shows up better in this cropped version
Our road trip from Pretoria to Mossel Bay this past weekend followed a by now familiar routine – around 1300 kms spread more or less equally over three days with stopovers near Bloemfontein and Graaff-Reinet.
What we love about road trips is the changing landscape along the way, which varies according to the season – that is when traffic and weather conditions allow you to take it in.
The first half of the journey tends to be busy, but once we branch off from the N1 National Road traffic diminishes and despite a narrower road the driving becomes easier, allowing us to scan the surrounding landscape.
What set this trip apart for us was the appearance of flowers at the roadside and extending into the adjoining fields in places.
Spring brings an abundance of wild flowers to the western parts of South Africa and we have enjoyed flower watching trips in previous years. But the Karoo is not known for its spring flowers, so it was a pleasant surprise to see massed displays in places as we drove the second half of our journey, starting in the Willowmore area and continuing through to Oudtshoorn and beyond. Some examples …..
Bright orange daisies just south of Oudtshoorn…
Karoo Violets near Graaff-Reinet…
Vygies galore along the road between Oudtshoorn and De Rust….
Just what we needed after a couple of months of arduous clearing out and packing of our Pretoria home in preparation for our permanent move to Mossel Bay
South Africa is many things – a “World in One Country” is one description that is often used. A recent trip to the small town of Friemersheim reminded us just how rewarding it can be for those prepared to go off the beaten track and explore some of the so-called backwaters of our amazing, sometimes frustrating, never boring, country.
Where is Friemersheim?
This small town, described by some as a hamlet, lies a short distance inland of Great Brak River, itself a small town on the coast of the southern Cape
A Bit of History
I had travelled through this small town on a couple of occasions in recent years while bird atlasing in the area, but there was never a reason to stop or explore the town other than to find a few birds to add to the atlas list that I was occupied with at the time.
Wikipedia has the following to say about the history of the settlement :
A small agricultural community about 15 km from Groot-Brakrivier, Friemersheim was founded by a German missionary in the early nineteenth century. In 1869, through the efforts of Reverend Johann Kretzen of the Berliner Missionary Society, a school and church were built on the farm Gonnakraal, which Kretzen had bought for his sister.
After his sister’s death in 1872, he bequeathed the farm to the Dutch Reformed Missionary Society, and later it was renamed Friemersheim, after Kretzen’s town of birth in Germany. It remained in the ownership of the Dutch Reformed Church until the 1960s, when it was sold to the state
Art Gallery?
Friemersheim was firmly placed on the tourist map during lockdown, when South African artist Fourie Ackermann, who moved to the area in 2015, decided to liven things up with murals painted on the walls of local houses. And did he make a good job of it!
It is an ongoing project it seems, as new murals ‘pop up’ on houses throughout the spread-out town on a regular basis. Our drive through the village wasn’t done in a planned fashion – after driving most of the main street we turned off and meandered along some of the side streets, discovering murals along the way.
These are some that we found, but there are more hidden away in spots we didn’t get to, so there’s a reason to return ….
Parked Truck and a Rhino getting an apple from Young Girl
The murals are executed in some detail and many leave you momentarily wondering what is real and what is a result of the artist’s undoubtedly vivid imagination. Quirky comes to mind as you find one mural after another, all of which tend to raise a smile, even a loud chuckle – and that I’m sure is what Fourie Ackermann was aiming for.
At first glance of this one, the Rhino being fed an apple is obviously painted, but the GMC truck in the garage has you looking twice, then realising it’s also a mural. The two people in the garden are real by the way.
Friemersheim
You feel as if you can climb in and drive away – but it’s actually a blank wall…
FriemersheimFriemersheim
Bataleur and a Tannie (She’s real!)
The chatty, friendly owner of this house posed in front of the mural of a Bataleur Eagle at our request and told us a bit about the murals elsewhere in Friemersheim. Her mural was one of the first done by the artist and according to the Tannie (pronounced “tunnie” – the respectful Afrikaans term for Auntie) took the artist just two days to complete.
The addition of a balloon to many of the murals is just another quirky ‘signature’ by the artist
Murals, Friemersheim
Whales and a Boy in a boat
Some of the murals, such as this one, are completely unexpected after seeing mostly animals and birds depicted – this one depicts whales underwater reaching out to a boy in a boat
FriemersheimFriemersheimFriemersheim
Girl at a Window, Shark….!
As with the previous images, this old home stands alone on a hill and would hardly be noticed if it wasn’t for the murals
Murals, FriemersheimFriemersheim
The same home, showing the side view with its depiction of a shark ‘popping out’ of the wall. Just look at how the wall is drawn back like a curtain to reveal the fearsome shark
Murals, FriemersheimMurals, Friemersheim
Friendly Man waving, Goat in Window
Yet another small home on a hill with the door painted to look like a larger than life man waving to you. Oh, and he’s wearing a Springbok rugby jersey!
FriemersheimFriemersheim
Beyond quirky is this depiction of a goat standing on a window ledge with curtains billowing and outsize butterflies fluttering
Friemersheim
Cape Sugarbird on Protea
Friemersheim
Another Friendly Man waving
FriemersheimFriemersheim
Horse and Donkey with Cat, Pretty Window
Here again you need to look carefully – the garden and flowers are real and blend in wonderfully with the rather odd menagerie and the window that looks so real but is painted on a blank wall. And there’s one of those balloons again
FriemersheimFriemersheimFriemersheim
Cheetahs and a (Real) Dog
When we stopped to view these cheetahs, we were wary of the fierce looking dog which leaped aggressively towards us – but was restrained by the chain to which it was tethered. We felt some pity towards the unfortunate dog in this situation, although this breed does not enjoy a good reputation.
Nevertheless, the Cheetahs were fascinating, especially the one climbing through the ‘hole in the wall’.
FriemersheimFriemersheimFriemersheim
This town is a treat to see if you are ever in the area!
With wonderful memories of our Spring Flowers trip through parts of the Western Cape in September 2021 still fresh in our minds, we decided to do a similar, but different, trip in September 2022. Our planned route was to take us to Tulbagh for one night, then three nights each in Clanwilliam and Paternoster. To round off the trip we treated ourselves to a three night stay in Cape Town’s Vineyard Hotel, in celebration of our birthdays which “book-ended” the trip,
I would recommend clicking on the images where appropriate to view in larger scale and appreciate the beauty and perfection of the flowers.
Flowers in abundance
The full breakfast at Paternoster Dunes is a gourmet affair, presented with flair and with unusual flavours – just what we enjoy as a treat. Adding to the enjoyment is the view from the upper floor dining room with its panoramic windows looking over the wide expanse of beach below and across the waves to the distant headlands.
During brekkie we got chatting to a couple from Vryburg – well Gerda got chatting, I just nodded my head occasionally – and as often happens when you get chatting with strangers, we had a glimpse into each other’s lives, which is always interesting.
The sun was shining, holding the promise for a bountiful day’s flower viewing, so after breakfast we set off to visit Cape Columbine Nature Reserve, which has the well-known ‘alternate’ name of Tietiesbaai (literally ‘Boobs Bay’ for the international readers).
Cape Columbine NR – TietiesbaaiCape Columbine NR – Tietiesbaai
The reserve gate lies just a few kms from the guesthouse and once we had paid the nominal fee and entered, we travelled very slowly, with plenty of birdlife and beautiful spreads of flowers demanding our attention all the way.
Cape Columbine NR – TietiesbaaiCape Columbine NR – TietiesbaaiCape Columbine NR – Tietiesbaai
The sea is almost always visible from the sandy road into the reserve and tracks leading off the main route took us closer to the rocky shoreline where we admired the rafts of flowers in shades of yellow, orange and white, with the odd contrasting colour here and there, all against the rugged backdrop of sea and rocks.
Cape Columbine NR – TietiesbaaiCape Columbine NR – TietiesbaaiCape Columbine NR – Tietiesbaai
I don’t know of any other spot along the West coast that provides the same spectacular combination of scenery, flowers and birdlife – we were spoilt for choice!
Cape Columbine NR – TietiesbaaiCape Columbine NR – TietiesbaaiCape Columbine NR – Tietiesbaai
Even without the flowers, Tietiesbaai is worth a visit, but in flower season the carpets of stunning flowers add another dimension to the reserve, making it a must-visit spot, in our opinion.
Cape Columbine NR – TietiesbaaiCape Columbine NR – TietiesbaaiCape Columbine NR – Tietiesbaai
Strangely, not that many people have cottoned onto this as, during our visits in September last year and again this year, we have found that we have the reserve mostly to ourselves, allowing us to stop at random along the narrow tracks without the worry of blocking the road for others.
Cape Columbine NR – TietiesbaaiCape Columbine NR – TietiesbaaiCape Columbine NR – Tietiesbaai
The birds we came across were many and varied, with a couple of special encounters which had us excited and fascinated – I will be featuring the birds in a follow-up post as they, and indeed the flowers, are both deserving of a separate post.
Cape Columbine NR – Tietiesbaai
Once we reached the campsite, right on the edge of the sea, we made use of the neat ablutions and turned back towards Paternoster, taking the ‘upper’ road past the lighthouse.
To end off let me share some of the images of individual flowers that particularly caught our eye
Cape Columbine NR – TietiesbaaiCape Columbine NR – TietiesbaaiCape Columbine NR – TietiesbaaiCape Columbine NR – TietiesbaaiCape Columbine NR – TietiesbaaiCape Columbine NR – Tietiesbaai
And to absolutely end off, even the fungi look like attractive flowers (well, I think it’s fungi …..)
Cape Columbine NR – Tietiesbaai
Oh, and please do enjoy the Christmas weekend wherever you may find yourself!