Breakaway
After the stress of packing up our Pretoria home of the last 21 years and getting our house contents and ourselves to Mossel Bay last September, we were looking for a short breakaway but without a long drive, so Eight Bells Inn seemed like the ideal spot – one of our favourite places for tea or lunch and just 40 minutes from home.
Day One
The packing was simple for just three days, and we arrived at the inn soon after 4pm, settled into the comfortable room and relaxed for a while.
Sitting outside and enjoying the lush gardens, I added a few birds to the pentad list I had started on the way there, including Knysna Turaco flying by and disappearing into a tall tree, Red-chested Cuckoo calling repeatedly, Black-headed Oriole flashing its yellow plumage in the trees and Amethyst Sunbird busily finding nectar high up in the flowering tree in front of our room
Later, I set off on a walk down into the adjoining valley, passing horses grazing on the short grass and listening to the calls from the bushy areas. I was pleasantly surprised to see a group of Olive Pigeons in the tall trees, as I have not seen them outside of the forests.
A number of other ‘specials’ were quickly added as I made my way down the slope into the valley– Cape Batis, Spotted Eagle Owl, Terrestial Brownbul and Greater Double-collared Sunbird.
Dinner time was approaching, which hastened my return to our room to neaten up for the hotel dinner in the cosy dining-room. The evening meal was pleasant and we were looked after by the staff, still as super-friendly as we have come to know them over the years.
Day Two
After a relaxed breakfast, we set off on a drive with the Rose farm situated between George and Oudtshoorn, as our destination, and a route that would take us through the back roads of the Klein Karoo
The first part was up the Robinson Pass with several stops along the way to listen and look for the specials without much luck. Beyond the pass we were amazed by the extensive displays of wildflowers, particularly the deep pink vygies that stretched as far as we could see in places.
Approaching Oudtshoorn from the south, we took the Mount Hope turn off onto a gravel road and into typical arid Karoo countryside for the next hour or two as we wound our way up and down hills and dales.
This sign at a farmstead had us chuckling – covers just about everything!
There were many attractive flowers that caught Gerda’s attention and we made numerous stops to look closer.
Birds were scarce, as is often the case in such arid areas but there were a few highlights –
- Lesser Honeyguide in a group of gum trees near a farmstead– exactly where I had heard one during my previous atlas trip through the pentad some two years ago
- Pale Chanting Goshawk juveniles – twice, one with small prey
- Jackal Buzzard on utility pole
Dams along the route were mostly full, some verging on overflowing, but few had any birds except one large dam which held numbers of Shelducks, Yellow-billed Ducks and Red-billed Teals
At the Rose farm we enjoyed coffee and carrot cake / scone and Gerda spent a while buying roses for her planned small rose garden and two hanging baskets
Not wanting to return along the same road we headed over the Outeniqua pass, then through George to the N2 highway which took us to Great Brak River. From there we made our way via the Geelbeksvlei road back to the R328 and completed a full circuit once we reached Eight Bells.
After a while relaxing and a power nap, I took a walk around the paddock, adding Diderick Cuckoo, Paradise Flycatcher to my list. The evening dinner was a tasty chicken curry for me, bobotie for Gerda.
Day Three
We were looking forward to a day with less driving and more time to relax, so after another leisurely breakfast we set off with our tea and cookies to explore the road from nearby Ruiterbos to Leeukloof.
With light rain falling, we wound our way down into the valley, passing dense growth and broad stands of protea bush.
Passing through Ruiterbos village, we found Red-winged Starlings and Fork-tailed Drongo’s, while further on were Cape Canaries and Karoo Prinias. Heading into the lower part of the kloof the roadside vegetation became dense and colourful,with plenty of wildflowers, even some wild growing roses.
At its lowest point the road through Leeukloof crosses a river and we chose this spot to have our tea – we couldn’t have wished for a better spot – then carried on up the hill and back towards the tar road.
Heading back I took the next turn off left along the road to Bonnievale with limited birding success until a Black Harrier floated across the road in front of us
Back at the Inn we relaxed while light rain fell outside, only raising ourselves in time for the dinner.
Heading Home
Rain fell heavily overnight and continued to fall in the morning, and the garden was sodden when we made our way to breakfast in the dining room, sheltering from the rain under large umbrellas
A flowering Bottlebrush tree with raindrops covering the bright red flowers caught my eye and demanded a quick photo with my iphone
After a full breakfast we headed back home in lighter rain. I had received a whatsapp reporting on the rain and mentioning three roads in the area that were closed due to flooding – Geelbeksvlei, Leeukloof and Haelkraal roads, all of which we had driven over the last two days, so fortune was on our side.
We could see the effects of the rain when we crossed the bridge over Brandwag River and when we paused to look at the Geelbeksvlei road, which we had driven just two days prior, now impassable due to the high level of the river.
A wet end to our short breakaway….
This sounds like a brilliant getaway despite the soggy ending: birds and wild flowers – what more could one ask for!
Indeed, well worth a visit or just pop in and have tea and scones outside under the trees in good weather!
Enjoyed reading your journey! Look forward to your next article