South African nature enthusiast with a passion for Birding, Photography and Travelling to interesting places to discover more about Southern Africa and the World
One of the most popular posts on my blog to date has been the one I wrote about the quirky artwork that adorns the outside walls of random homes in the small village of Friemersheim in the Southern Cape.
For some reason readers have been attracted to this post in far greater numbers – over a 1000 views so far – than any of my other 300 plus posts – a tad ironic when you consider the title of my blog is “Mostly Birding”, as this is the one post that has no birds mentioned other than those depicted in the murals!
But I’m not complaining – It’s just the persuasion I need to post some more photos of the artwork that has appeared since that original post.
So let me remind you about Friemersheim with some of the details from the original post …..
Where is Friemersheim?
This small town, described by some as a hamlet, lies a short distance inland of Great Brak River, itself a small town on the coast of the southern Cape, not far from our home town Mossel Bay
The Artwork
Friemersheim was firmly placed on the tourist map during lockdown, when South African artist Fourie Ackermann, who moved to the area in 2015, decided to liven things up with murals painted on the walls of local houses. And did he make a good job of it!
It is an ongoing project it seems, as new murals ‘pop up’ on houses throughout the spread-out town on a regular basis.
During a recent bird atlasing trip to the area around the town I took some ‘time off’ from birding to drive through the town and view the murals that had appeared over the last year or two
Here’s what I found …..
Note that most of my photos were taken from a vantage point some distance away from the house and fences tend to get in the way, but I don’t think they distract from the enjoyment of these unique artworks
Zebras fighting, dust flying, birds fleeing … and a hidden Wildebeest
The street-facing wall of this rather modest home provides the ‘canvas’ for a dramatic scene of a fight between two Zebras, with dust being kicked up and birds being forced to scatter
The houseThe full muralThe drama of the fightA Cattle Egret takes off – and in the background a Wildebeest looks on (which I only noticed when I downloaded the photos) The barbed wire fence is real
Buffalo with young lad riding on the back
This mural on the side wall of another home is quite fanciful – Buffaloes are known as one of the most dangerous animals and hardly suited to being ridden by a young lad as depicted here. Nevertheless an imaginative mural brilliantly executed
Closer up the Buffalo has a flower in its mouth – clearly a friendly sort ……The young lad seems to be enjoying himself
Elephants performing, an Aloe …. and a balloon
This mural is just as fanciful with elephants acting unnaturally at first glance – one on its hind legs, the other two sitting on a bench. But then I remembered the elephants in the circuses of my youth doing exactly that so perhaps the artist had similar recollections
The addition of a balloon to many of the murals is just another quirky ‘signature’ by the artist
The door with a red curtain is a reminder that the house is real and ‘lived in’The Aloe is painted, the fence and flowers in front are real ….
Fearsome Hippo, Boy and Girl balancing, Gyppo taking off
This mural intrigued me the most – you have to look carefully to spot the actual rainwater drainpipe running in line with the painted dead tree which acts as the bridge for the two youngsters daring to cross over. The pipe is painted the same colour as the ‘bridge’ so blends in masterfully
Now that is a fearsome sight Whatever you do kids, don’t slip!The Egyptian Goose is not hanging around to see what happens
Wildebeest challenging
This mural on the wall of an outside room depicts another species fond of showing their superiority by challenging competitors – the Wildebeest
This town is a treat to see if you are ever in the area!
Many of the migrant waders – or shorebirds as they are also known – display the most Jeckyll and Hyde characteristics of all birds, living two dramatically different lives and spending time in habitats which are as far removed from each other as can be imagined.
Separating these two lives are amazing journeys that take these small yet hardy birds halfway across the world – and back again.
The majority of South African based birders get to know migrant species during their stay in the southern hemisphere, typically during the months from October to April, so let’s find out a bit more about their ‘other’ lives by delving (again) into the typical annual life cycle of these waders.
This time it’s the –
Common Ringed Plover
Ringnekstrandkiewiet
Charadrius hiaticulatundrae
The inclusion of the subspecies name tundrae above is because this is the particular subspecies (one of three in all) that makes its way to southern Africa in the non-breeding season
Hiaticula is Latin for cleft dweller, in reference to its habit of breeding among pebbles and rocks
Common Ringed Plover, Marievale Bird Sanctuary
Identification and Distribution
Key identification features of this petite (18 cm, 50g) wader are the size (similar to the Three-banded Plover) and the broad white collar above a blackish breast band, plus the distinctive orange legs
The differences between breeding and non-breeding birds are subtle – the main feature being the orange bill that changes to black, while the black collar and face mask become lighter – these illustrations from Birds of the World show the differences nicely
Clues to their very different lives lie in the global distribution map – the orange area is where breeding occurs in the Northern Hemisphere while the blue area, mostly in the Southern Hemisphere, is where they recuperate from all the rigours of the breeding season and build up strength for the next season.
Map from Birds of the World – Orange : Breeding; Blue : non-breeding; Yellow : Migration
The southern African distribution map shows the species presence across most of the region but absent from the Kalahari and arid interior
Map from Firefinch app
Life in the North
Breeding range is almost circumpolar – from north-eastern arctic-Canada, across Greenland, Iceland, Scandinavia and northern Russia. Their preferred habitat is spartan – along the coast on sandy or shingle beaches, sandbanks and mudflats, estuaries. They also occur on tundra and breed up to 1200m altitude in places such as Norway.
Foraging for their favoured food, which includes small crustaceans and molluscs, is done by day and night, taking advantage of the long days and short nights of the summer months in those far northern areas, typically in small flocks of up to 50 birds.
Breeding and Migration
Their nest is simple – a shallow scrape in the ground, lined with pebbles, debris and pieces of vegetation, sometimes in covered or shaded sites. Eggs (usually 4) are laid between April and mid-July and are incubated for 21 to 27 days by both parents.
Well camouflaged eggs amongst the shingles and pebbles (Photo by others)
If a potential predator approaches the nest, the adult will walk away from the scrape, calling and feigning injury by flopping along the ground as if its wing is broken. Once the intruder has been lured far enough away from the nest the plover will fly off.
I have witnessed this same behaviour by Kittliz’s Plover, where I was taken to be a threat to the nest by unwittingly approaching too close to it – much to my amusement and fascination at the time the plover repeatedly performed the broken wing routine until I left it in peace.
Fledging some 4 weeks later, the fledglings are independent soon thereafter, facing the many dangers that young birds are subject to.
Once the young have fledged and can look after themselves, they start migrating south, often after the adults have already departed. And this is where it gets interesting – those that breed the furthest north are also those that migrate the furthest south. On the other hand most of those that breed further south follow the shortest migration route to the northern parts of Africa.
So the Ringed Plovers that we see in southern Africa, the tundrae sub-species, originate from the far north of Scandinavia and Russia, travelling up to 18,000 kms before finding a suitable spot in our neighbourhood.
Common Ringed Plover, Strandfontein Sewage Works
In the process they “leapfrog” their slightly less adventurous cousins who have chosen a shorter migration route – a phenomenon known (unsurprisingly) as leapfrog migration.
As far as is known, the migration route to southern Africa crosses the Eurasian and African land masses in a broad front, possibly crossing the Sahara along the way, then heads to east and south Africa.
Common Ringed Plover, Gouritzmond
Migration south starts from July with the first adults arriving in southern Africa in September and the first juveniles in October, continuing to December
Life in the South
In southern Africa they seek out suitable habitat, mostly at the coast where they favour estuaries and lagoons, but also inland on mud- and sandbanks along rivers and at wetlands, favouring wide bare shorelines with little vegetation. They can often be found in the company of the more common Kittlitz’s and Three-banded Plovers.
Common Ringed Plover, Bronkhorstspruit Nature Reserve near Pretoria
Some time after arrival adults and juveniles have a complete moult over the next couple of months
Voëlvlei, about 30 minutes’ drive from Mossel Bay, which had no water for many years until the good rains of last year, attracted its share of Ringed Plovers this past summer along with many other waders.
Common Ringed Plover, Voelvlei near Vleesbaai
Foraging is done in very shallow water or on wet mud, using the typical plover run-stop-search technique, locating prey visually and picking off the surface rather than probing as many waders with longer bills tend to do.
Common Ringed Plover Charadrius, VoelvleiCommon Ringed Plover, Great Brak River
The plovers start departing from late February with the majority having left by end April, heading north to their breeding grounds where the cycle will start all over again…
References : Cornell Lab of Ornithology Birds of the World; Roberts VII Birds of Southern Africa; Firefinch app
During my birding and atlasing trips I come across a variety of migrant species, some of which I manage to photograph in their local habitat – one in particular, the Little Stint, had me thinking for the umpteenth time how fascinating and amazing these annual migrations are.
Many of the migrant waders – or shorebirds as they are also known – display the most Jeckyll and Hyde characteristics of all birds, living two dramatically different lives and spending time in habitats which are as far removed from each other as can be imagined.
The majority of South African based birders get to know migrant species during their stay in the southern hemisphere, typically during the months from October to April, so let’s find out a bit more about their ‘other’ lives by delving into the typical annual life-cycle of these waders, starting with –
Little Stint
Calidris minuta (Kleinstrandloper)
This is the tiny, compact (13 cm, 23 g) wader found across southern Africa, often in flocks and joining other waders at almost any coastal or inland habitat with shallow water, soft mud and not much vegetation.
Key identification features are the very small size, short black bill and wings that project beyond the tail – the latter is a common trait amongst migrant birds needing extra wing power for those ‘halfway across the world’ journeys that they undertake
Clues to their two very different lives lie in the distribution map (courtesy of Cornell Lab of Ornithology) – the orange area is where breeding occurs in the Northern Hemisphere while the blue area, mostly in the Southern Hemisphere, is where they go ‘on vacation’ to build up strength for the next breeding season
Life in the North
Birds are considered as “resident” in the area where they breed, which in the case of the Little Stint is situated within the Arctic Circle in a habitat known as Arctic Tundra, with temperatures well below zero for most of the year and a maximum of just 4 deg C in ‘summer’.
Tundra is known for large stretches of bare ground and rock and for patchy mantles of low vegetation and small shrubs – ‘barren’ and ‘frozen’ are about the kindest words to describe this habitat, yet these tiny waders thrive in this environment
Tundra in Siberia (Photo courtesy of Wikipedia)
They inhabit dry ground at lower altitudes, often near swampy areas or salt-marshes, avoiding areas with annual rainfall of more than 250mm (No, they don’t have a way of measuring it other than instinct)
Little Stint in breeding plumage (Photo courtesy of Cornell Birds of the World)
Breeding and Migration
Their nest is built on the ground, lined with leaves and grass but otherwise exposed. Eggs are laid starting late June to early July and are incubated by both parents.
Once the young have fledged and can look after themselves, they and the adult birds start migrating south, not necessarily together, heading across Europe before following a route via the Rift Valley lakes of eastern Africa then fanning out across southern Africa
According to estimates, up to 1 million Little Stints migrate to Africa, of which a relatively small proportion venture all the way south to southern Africa. Migration south starts from July with peak numbers arriving in southern Africa between October and December
Life in the South
On arrival in southern Africa (and just before departure) some of the stints will still be in partial breeding plumage with upper parts washed rufous, while others will have adopted their non-breeding plumage of brownish grey
Little Stint, Bloemhof Saltworks : taken in April so showing partial breeding plumage
In southern Africa they seek out suitable habitat, preferring coastal and inland wetlands, especially where wet mud is available. Temporary pans in the interior can often provide the abundant short-term food that is perfect for their requirements.
Voëlvlei, about 30 minutes drive from Mossel Bay, which had no water for many years until the good rains of last year, has attracted hundreds of Little Stints this past summer along with many other migrant waders.
Voëlvlei near Vleesbaai
Not only did Voëlvlei provide abundant food for the waders and others, it also provided an ongoing feast for local birders enjoying the abundance of birds along with a few rarities. (More about that in future posts)
Foraging is done in very shallow water or on wet mud, picking small invertebrates off the surface rather than probing as many waders with longer bills tend to do.
Little Stint Calidris minuta Kleinstrandloper, Great Brak River estuary
Stints are fairly easy to spot amongst other waders, not only because they are generally the smallest of the waders present but also due to their hunched appearance which always reminds me of a little old man pottering about
Little Stint, Strandfontein Sewage Works
The Stints start departing from mid-February with the majority having left by end April, heading north to their breeding grounds where the cycle will start all over again…
Little Stint Calidris minuta Kleinstrandloper, Voëlvlei near Vleesbaai
What a privilege it is to welcome these fascinating waders to our shores
References : Cornell Lab of Ornithology Birds of the World; Roberts VII Birds of Southern Africa
We had four full days to make the most of our breakaway to this delightful park and we soon settled into a routine which we followed more or less on each of those days. Let’s just say we were out to relax as much as possible, while not missing out on what Addo has to offer.
The mornings were the most relaxed part of the day, getting up late-ish, having coffee while enjoying the birdsong and spending the rest of the morning out on the deck, then venturing out for a drive along one of the routes, usually with a light picnic lunch packed.
This took us to mid-afternoon when we would return to camp, just in time for a rest (I told you we were out to relax!). More deck sitting, followed by getting the braai fire going for the evening meal to round out the day.
Day 3 and 4 Highlights
The Drives
On Day three we followed a similar pattern to the first two days, starting with coffee and rusks and spending most of the morning chilling on the deck or inside when light intermittent rain began to fall
Once again we made our way to Jack’s Picnic spot, this time taking the Rooidam road for a bit of variety. We prepared a picnic lunch of cheese and biscuits plus fruit and yoghurt to enjoy in one of the secluded spots.
The power was off due to loadshedding when we wanted to make tea to take with us, but fortunately I had brought a small camping gas burner and a kettle for just such an occasion, allowing us to boil our tea water at the picnic spot – not sure why but this simple act is a highlight of the day for me.
Along the way we enjoyed watching groups of elephants interacting at the waterholes – such as this ‘mother and child’ scenario – what wonderful creatures to observe!
Best animal sighting of the day, apart from the ubiquitous elephants, was a lone Black-backed Jackal walking across the open flats at the Hapoor dam – handsome in its coat of black, white and rust, with its distinctive black bushy tail.
Black-backed Jackal, Addo Elephant NP
At the picnic site a few birds came to inspect and see if we had dropped any crumbs –
Red-necked Spurfowl
Red-necked Spurfowl
Sombre Greenbul
Sombre Greenbul (photo taken in Kruger NP)
Day four was our last day and it was a hot one – the forecast said it would rise to 39 deg C by lunchtime and indeed it did
Much like the first three days, we hung around our chalet during the morning, mostly inside to avoid the baking heat outside, enjoying a krummelpap brekkie and late morning tea with fruit salad before venturing out into the hot midday sun. We followed a new route which included the loops on the far western side of Addo
It was comfortable for us in our air-conditioned vehicle, even with the windows open, but less so for the animals and birds which were visibly affected by the extreme heat.
We came across fewer elephants in the open plains area to the west, but found a large mixed herd at the waterhole when we were on the way back. The elephants didn’t seem to wander too far from the waterhole which seemed completely overcrowded, yet the ellies displayed great patience in letting all have a chance to drink without any commotion.
Almost all the birds we came across were ‘panting’ with beaks wide open – their way of keeping their body temperature under control.
Bird highlight of the day for us was a Denham’s Bustard not far from the road in an open area of dry grassland. As they are wont to do, it walked away when we stopped, making it difficult to get a decent photo – if only they knew how frustrating they can be!
It was unusual to see a large tortoise all alone at one waterhole, quietly quenching its thirst
Tortoise, Addo Elephant NP
All in all a worthwhile and interesting drive of a couple of hours, despite the extreme heat
After a restful period at the chalet and a swim in the pool nearby, we visited the Discovery Trail near our chalet and enjoyed matching the nameplates placed at intervals along the boardwalk with their respective trees and bushes.
It was nice to find a Flightless Dung Beetle next to the pathway. This must be one of the few beetles in the world that features on warning signs advising drivers to keep a look out for them and avoid driving over them.
They are quite vulnerable in Addo when the roads are busy and the beetles are out foraging elephant dung, which they carefully roll into a ball and propel with their hind legs, often crossing the road very slowly in the process.
Back at the chalet we heated up the ribs we braaied last night and enjoyed a last Addo supper with salads, somewhat sad that our stay had come to an end
We had four full days to make the most of our breakaway to this delightful park and we soon settled into a routine which we followed more or less on each of those days. Let’s just say we were out to relax as much as possible, while not missing out on what Addo has to offer.
The mornings were the most relaxed part of the day, getting up late-ish, having coffee while enjoying the birdsong and spending the rest of the morning out on the deck, then venturing out for a drive along one of the routes, usually with a light picnic lunch packed.
This took us to mid-afternoon when we would return to camp, just in time for a rest (I told you we were out to relax!). More deck sitting, followed by getting the braai fire going for the evening meal to round out the day.
Day 1 and 2 Highlights
Stoepsitting
Stoepsitting (relaxing on the deck) is especially rewarding in Addo’s Main Camp where the chalets are surrounded by trees and shrubs which are a magnet for a number of birds.
It almost seems as if the birds that visit the surrounding bushes and trees are prompted by a stage director to appear ‘on stage’, play their part and leave again
Some of the regular “performers” :
Southern Boubou, looking like he is in charge, giving a raucous call just in case you don’t notice him the first time
Bar-throated Apalis, perky and loud, flitting about the bushes, allowing very brief glimpses as it moves through the foliage – so brief I didn’t manage to get a photo this visit so have included this one from a previous trip
Bar-throated Apalis, Bontebok NP (not impressed by my playing his call)
Cape Robin-Chat, haughty and superior – but who wouldn’t be if you could sing as well as it can
Karoo Prinia, another busy bird not sitting still for long and with an almost desperate look in the eye – perhaps it’s thinking about a thorny issue of some kind …
Our drive on day one was limited to a late afternoon exploration of the roads nearest to the camp. At the first waterhole we found a small group of elephants quenching their thirst, while a Warthog approached carefully to see if he could get a look in.
On day two we felt like a longer drive and set off late morning, taking the road southwards to Jack’s Picnic spot where we had a light lunch of fruit salad and yoghurt and the tea that we had prepared before leaving. Jack’s is unique in that it has a number of individual picnic tables each set in an alcove shielded by bush almost all the way around, creating a cosy, private space to enjoy your picnic.
On the way we had encountered several groups of elephant – some at the waterhole, others nearby.
African Elephant, Addo Elephant NP
While watching the wild life activity at Hapoor waterhole near the picnic spot, we witnessed a mixed herd of elephants approaching at a pace, tails literally flying in the air – clearly they had one thing in mind – to quench their thirst on a hot day
African Elephant, Addo Elephant NP
An older elephant lagged behind – the pace just too fast for it (I can relate to that)
African Elephant, Addo Elephant NP
A few Zebras in the bushy areas added some variety to the drive
Joining the Pipits was a bird that at first had me wondering due to its wet and bedraggled plumage but a study of the photos I took convinced me it was a Karoo Chat – probably a juvenile
Gerda is always on the lookout for wild flowers – there was not much to see but we did come across a single Spekboom that had flowers, while thousands of its like had none
Soon after we saw a bright splash of red and yellow in an otherwise drab patch of veld, which turned out to be an unusual lily with several common names, one of which is Paintbrush Lily
Paintbrush Lily, Addo Elephant NP
By coincidence the same evening, while scanning through some wild flower posts on facebook, I came across an interesting post which went into some detail about this unique flower, in Afrikaans
We still had two days of relaxation ahead in this lovely national park, which tends to grow on you
Since moving to Mossel Bay in October last year, we seem to have been constantly busy with unpacking of the many boxes and consolidating the contents of two houses into one, in the process going through yet another round of discarding unnecessary ju.. er- possessions. There are still plenty of boxes, mainly books, which eagerly await the construction of library shelving which I am keen to do myself, when I get the time….
Since the start of 2024 a small team under my direction has been painting and renovating the house which we had built in 2010 so it is overdue for some loving care. We promised ourselves a breakaway once that was all done and once the end was in sight we quickly booked a 5 night stay in Addo Elephant National Park then added stopovers on the way there and back to make it a full week’s break.
Getting there ….
Saturday 9th March
With a short distance to do on the first leg to Storms River, just on 200 kms, we left the packing and organizing to the morning and left home close to lunchtime
After some rapid shopping for provisions in George we had lunch at Spur and set off eastwards at 3 pm, joining many others on the slow and busy road past Wilderness and Sedgefield and through Knysna and Plett before the short stretch of very welcome toll road which took us to our destination right on 5 pm.
We had found Swallows Nest Country Cottages on Booking.com and the cottage turned out to be what we had hoped for – comfortable, clean and spacious, and we were soon settled in.
Swallows Nest, Storms River Village
I took a walk through the nearby streets and found many others doing the same – all seemingly foreign tourists walking to one of the many restaurants scattered throughout the village.
We had imagined Storms River Village to be a quiet country town with a couple of B and B’s due to its proximity to the N2 National road – what we discovered is a busy tourist village with a variety of activities on offer and a choice of accommodation establishments and restaurants – even a 1960’s themed Marilyn’s Diner – quite incongruous in this small village setting.
However our dinner was a sandwich and avo in the cottage – balancing out the substantial meal at lunchtime
Sunday 10th March
We slept late so had to rush to be in time for breakfast – the usual fare of fruit, scrambled eggs and bacon. We had booked for two nights to give us a chance to explore the Storms River area, so after breakfast and showers we set off late morning to explore the village, just driving around slowly and stopping here and there.
The Tsitsikamma section of the Garden Route National Park starts on the outskirts of the village
We then headed a few kms back along the N2 to the turnoff to the Storms River Mouth which lies within the Tsitsikamma of the Garden Route National Park.
The road took us to the Park gate then wound its way downwards to the sea, past the caravan parks and chalets until we reached the parking area which was surprisingly full, overflowing into a long line of cars parked along the approach road.
Buses were parked on one side and more kept arriving to disgorge even more visitors – clearly tourism is booming along the garden route!
We found a table at the crowded temporary restaurant ( there’s a new complex under construction with a beautiful position overlooking the sea) and ordered fish and chips from the friendly waiter, which arrived quickly – amazing under the circumstances.
I later learnt that the original restaurant was severely damaged by a storm surge in September 2023 – clearly Storms River is not just a fanciful name!
I took a walk along the boardwalk thinking I would have a look at the suspension bridge at the river mouth, but when I saw how far it was and the tricky route to get there I decided it was a bridge too far…. (oh well, it made me chuckle)
After taking in the rugged sea views and photographing a pair of Oystercatchers, I returned to the car and we headed back to the N2, pleased that we had seen the place we last visited and stayed in so many years ago with our then young kids in tow.
African Oystercatcher, Storms River Mouth
We weren’t done yet as I wanted to visit the nearby Tsitsikamma Big Tree forest again, hoping for a few forest birds. It was a pleasant walk along the boardwalk and the trees were still impressive, but bird life was almost non-existent other than the almost constant calls of Sombre Greenbul and Olive Pigeons high up in the canopy – unseen but heard
Dinner was at the Marilyn’s Diner – good filling food in a unique setting
Monday 11th March
The trip onwards to Addo was destined to take a lot longer than planned …
We weren’t up to a full breakfast so had fruit and yoghurt, packed up and set off just after 10 am, first stop not long after at the service stop at the bridge to fill the prado and get coffee and tea at the Mugg and Bean.
Back on the N2, I noticed the tyre warning light had come on, so when Gerda suggested a stop at a farm stall I didn’t argue for once. I had a look at the tyres and saw immediately that the right rear was deflating.
My heart sank as I realised I have never had to change a wheel on the prado myself since purchasing it in 2015. I had no idea where the jacking points were so pulled out the owner’s manual and found the instructions.
It looked challenging but I set about getting the jack in place under the rear axle and the wheel nuts loosened when a ‘nice young man’ (as my mother always referred to such helpful people) asked if he could help and he was soon doing it all in a manner that showed he knew how.
What a relief to get the spare on and the flat tyre secured at the back and we were on our way again, but only as far as Humansdorp where we turned off, found a Supaquik tyre place and pulled in.
They soon had the tyre off and repaired where it had somehow picked up a small, neat hole in the sidewall. All of this had taken us to lunchtime so we bought woolies sandwiches at the corner garage and once again set off, hoping we had left the troubles behind us. Not quite it seemed….
We were just starting to get up to a reasonable pace when I had to slow down and stop at the first of multiple ‘stop and go’s’ on the N2, each one with long queues of vehicles waiting and each one painfully slow in getting going.
I had entered Addo into my phone’s google maps and we decided to follow the suggested route which seemed the most direct – not always a good idea as we found out when we turned off the N2 towards Uitenhage – the road was narrow and in need of repair and got worse when we were directed onto a bumpy gravel road for some 30 kms which literally shook us silly before we emerged onto the actual PE – Addo road
By the time we got to Addo it was 6 hours after our departure – never has 215 kms felt this far!
We were thankful to check in and head to chalet 48 where we offloaded and collapsed in the outside chairs for a recovery session as the sun slowly set behind distant hills.
Later having regained some energy, I got a braai going and we enjoyed kebabs and wors with Gerda’s lovely copper penny salad and potato salad. A nice ending to a stressful day
Now we look forward to four restful days in this small gem of the National Parks Board
A while back I showcased a few species with striking eyes – continuing that theme, here’s a look at another species that has formidable eyes -although this is not immediately obvious but does become more so once you get up close and personal with it
The distribution of this species is extensive across Sub-Saharan Africa, missing only from a few arid areas such as the Kalahari in southern Africa. It is the commonest of the large herons throughout Africa.
What to Look for
This is not a bird that is likely to be confused with any other, with the possible exception of the Grey Heron which is of similar size and, at a distance, of similar appearance. Non-birders (no disrespect, but you are missing out seriously) do mistake this species for the iconic Blue Crane, something I can vouch for from personal experience.
It’s a tall bird, up to 96 cm in height and weighing between 700 and 1650 g
Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala Swartkopreier, Great Brak River
In flight it’s easier to confirm the identification due to the bi-coloured wings – black flight feathers, white underwing coverts
Black-headed Heron, De Hoop NR
Eyes are yellow, but turn orange, then red during breeding
Black-headed Heron, Delmas area
Black-headed Heron is a terrestial species, not necessarily found near wetlands as with other herons, and is one of the few birds that benefit from human alteration to the environment such as irrigated areas, which suit their preference for damp pastureland
They will often be found striding through grass, hunting for prey
Black-headed Heron, Mossel Bay-Herbertsdale
They eat a variety of rodents,insects, snakes, frogs, crabs, fish – in fact just about anything that crosses their path including small birds. This individual I came across early one morning in the Rayton area near Pretoria had caught a large rodent, possibly a vlei rat, and proceeded to swallow it whole, taking a few minutes to manoeuvre it into position for swallowing. I could see the progress of the prey moving down the bird’s long neck, which bulged as it gradually slipped down.
Black-headed Heron swallowing prey, Rayton-Culinan area
They often nest in or near towns – Great Brak River, just down the road from Mossel Bay, has a busy roost in a tall tree on the main road. The next photo was taken in a more rural area near Pretoria, where numbers of Black-headed Herons occupied a large tree next to a farm dam.
They make themselves known with their harsh squawking calls at all times of the day.
Black-headed Herons, Bapsfontein east
References: Roberts VII Birds of Southern Africa; Firefinch Birding App; Birds of the World – Cornell Lab of Ornithology
After the stress of packing up our Pretoria home of the last 21 years and getting our house contents and ourselves to Mossel Bay last September, we were looking for a short breakaway but without a long drive, so Eight Bells Inn seemed like the ideal spot – one of our favourite places for tea or lunch and just 40 minutes from home.
Day One
The packing was simple for just three days, and we arrived at the inn soon after 4pm, settled into the comfortable room and relaxed for a while.
Sitting outside and enjoying the lush gardens, I added a few birds to the pentad list I had started on the way there, including Knysna Turaco flying by and disappearing into a tall tree, Red-chested Cuckoo calling repeatedly, Black-headed Oriole flashing its yellow plumage in the trees and Amethyst Sunbird busily finding nectar high up in the flowering tree in front of our room
Amethyst Sunbird
Later, I set off on a walk down into the adjoining valley, passing horses grazing on the short grass and listening to the calls from the bushy areas. I was pleasantly surprised to see a group of Olive Pigeons in the tall trees, as I have not seen them outside of the forests.
A number of other ‘specials’ were quickly added as I made my way down the slope into the valley– Cape Batis, Spotted Eagle Owl, Terrestial Brownbul and Greater Double-collared Sunbird.
Eight Bells Inn, Robinson Pass
Dinner time was approaching, which hastened my return to our room to neaten up for the hotel dinner in the cosy dining-room. The evening meal was pleasant and we were looked after by the staff, still as super-friendly as we have come to know them over the years.
Day Two
After a relaxed breakfast, we set off on a drive with the Rose farm situated between George and Oudtshoorn, as our destination, and a route that would take us through the back roads of the Klein Karoo
The first part was up the Robinson Pass with several stops along the way to listen and look for the specials without much luck. Beyond the pass we were amazed by the extensive displays of wildflowers, particularly the deep pink vygies that stretched as far as we could see in places.
Approaching Oudtshoorn from the south, we took the Mount Hope turn off onto a gravel road and into typical arid Karoo countryside for the next hour or two as we wound our way up and down hills and dales.
Mount Hope road near Oudtshoorn
This sign at a farmstead had us chuckling – covers just about everything!
Translation : Please drive slowly! Old people, farm workers, children, grandchildren, dogs and chickens
There were many attractive flowers that caught Gerda’s attention and we made numerous stops to look closer.
Birds were scarce, as is often the case in such arid areas but there were a few highlights –
Lesser Honeyguide in a group of gum trees near a farmstead– exactly where I had heard one during my previous atlas trip through the pentad some two years ago
Pale Chanting Goshawk juveniles – twice, one with small prey
Jackal Buzzard on utility pole
Pale Chanting Goshawk (Juvenile)
Dams along the route were mostly full, some verging on overflowing, but few had any birds except one large dam which held numbers of Shelducks, Yellow-billed Ducks and Red-billed Teals
SA Shelduck
At the Rose farm we enjoyed coffee and carrot cake / scone and Gerda spent a while buying roses for her planned small rose garden and two hanging baskets
Not wanting to return along the same road we headed over the Outeniqua pass, then through George to the N2 highway which took us to Great Brak River. From there we made our way via the Geelbeksvlei road back to the R328 and completed a full circuit once we reached Eight Bells.
After a while relaxing and a power nap, I took a walk around the paddock, adding Diderick Cuckoo, Paradise Flycatcher to my list. The evening dinner was a tasty chicken curry for me, bobotie for Gerda.
Day Three
We were looking forward to a day with less driving and more time to relax, so after another leisurely breakfast we set off with our tea and cookies to explore the road from nearby Ruiterbos to Leeukloof.
With light rain falling, we wound our way down into the valley, passing dense growth and broad stands of protea bush.
Passing through Ruiterbos village, we found Red-winged Starlings and Fork-tailed Drongo’s, while further on were Cape Canaries and Karoo Prinias. Heading into the lower part of the kloof the roadside vegetation became dense and colourful,with plenty of wildflowers, even some wild growing roses.
Leeukloof road
At its lowest point the road through Leeukloof crosses a river and we chose this spot to have our tea – we couldn’t have wished for a better spot – then carried on up the hill and back towards the tar road.
Heading back I took the next turn off left along the road to Bonnievale with limited birding success until a Black Harrier floated across the road in front of us
Black Harrier Circus maurus Witkruisvleivalk
Back at the Inn we relaxed while light rain fell outside, only raising ourselves in time for the dinner.
Heading Home
Rain fell heavily overnight and continued to fall in the morning, and the garden was sodden when we made our way to breakfast in the dining room, sheltering from the rain under large umbrellas
A flowering Bottlebrush tree with raindrops covering the bright red flowers caught my eye and demanded a quick photo with my iphone
After a full breakfast we headed back home in lighter rain. I had received a whatsapp reporting on the rain and mentioning three roads in the area that were closed due to flooding – Geelbeksvlei, Leeukloof and Haelkraal roads, all of which we had driven over the last two days, so fortune was on our side.
We could see the effects of the rain when we crossed the bridge over Brandwag River and when we paused to look at the Geelbeksvlei road, which we had driven just two days prior, now impassable due to the high level of the river.
Brandwag River in floodGeelbeksvlei road under water
The weather in Mossel Bay, our new home town, is nothing if not variable, typical of coastal towns along the southern Cape coast.
This past week the mist has rolled in from the sea every day, sometimes dissipating by mid-morning but often remaining for most of the day. Without the usual sea breezes the days have been warm and humid, so the cooling mist has been welcome.
At The Point in Mossel Bay yesterday afternoon, the mournful sound of the foghorn in the background and the whistling calls of the Oystercatchers flying past added to the ghostly atmosphere that is conjured up by such misty days.
When not flying about and whistling, African Black Oystercatchers can usually be found on rocky shorelines at low tide, looking for mussels which they prise open with their bills.
African Black Oystercatcher
We were not put off our customary coffee time visits to the Point this past week, it just meant the sea view where we usually park was somewhat limited. However the mist did recede enough while we were there for us to be able to make out a couple of pelagic species such as Parasitic Jaegers and Cory’s Shearwaters in addition to the usual complement of Swift Terns, Kelp Gulls, Cormorants and the occasional Cape Gannet
I ventured onto the rocks below the parking area to take a few shots of the scenery, softened by the mist and with that slightly mysterious aura that such conditions impart.
The Point, Mossel BayThe natural swimming pool at The Point – known as Die PoortThe Point, Mossel BayThe Point, Mossel Bay
Meanwhile back at the ranch – well actually the golf estate that is our home nowadays, the mist was creating scenes like this when I went for a late afternoon walk
We decided during December to take a short breakaway trip to the Cape, in particular Stellenbosch, the famous University town and centre of all things wine-related.
The route from Mossel Bay, west to Stellenbosch
Our eldest granddaughter has a small flat close to the university and central Stellenbosch and as she was not due to return there until late January, it was a good opportunity for us to spend a few days there.
The town itself and the wine farms in the area are very busy at this time of year, attracting as they do visitors and tourists from all parts of the country and the world in fact, while the university campus area is exceptionally quiet, with hardly a soul in sight other than the campus security guards on every street corner that make it a safe place to walk about.
And walk about I did, taking in the beautiful architecture and pleasant streets of this delightful part of the town – here’s a selection of the images I collected on the way.
The Streets
In a few weeks time these streets will be busy with students walking, riding and driving between their residences, town and the campus buildings, but now they are dead quiet
This old restored lorry belongs to one of the men’s residences and would probably have a few stories to tell if it could …..
The Architecture
The faculties are housed in handsome buildings such as this one, each with an elegant style of their own.
Some of the old houses are privately owned, others house specialist sections of the university – all have one thing in common : they are beautifully restored and in pristine condition, ranging in style from Victorian to Cape Dutch
Leivore
Some towns in the Western Cape still have leivore – the traditional water furrows used to supply water for irrigation, usually emanating from a spring in the nearby mountains and channeled alongside the streets through the town. Leivore is pronounced ‘lay-foora’
Sluice gates such as this one (missing the upper part) control the flow of water in the leivore and where they branch off to a property
Mostly Birding 